Fairly beat Tacoma

Hey everybody!

I've been reading threads here for a couple of years now since I got my 2010 manual access cab 2TR in August 2020 at 168k. I've now closed in on 200k and I have made some of the best memories of my life in this truck and I have learned so much more than I expected about maintenance and working on the truck.

Unfortunately, this is a sad introduction post. I wanted to get some inspections since I have a lot of noise coming out of various areas of the truck and it's been through a lot to get to this point.

The results are in... and it's not looking good. I am wondering what you all would do in this situation. One of the CV axles needs replacing (significant play). One of the lower ball joints is metal on metal (kind of scary). The rack and pinion have leaked most of their grease from what I understand and stand to be replaced. The front suspension and rear suspension are both going out. I also have a coolant leak.

I just got a topper a while ago that I was really excited about using, but now I am not so sure it is even a good idea to keep the truck. The DIY shop I have used in the past in Denver has now closed... so I really can't do any of this myself, and I wouldn't have even felt comfortable tackling all of this anyways.

Both estimates are $8-10k to deal with everything. To be honest, it's a bit of a bummer. I'm starting to think Engineer Pass basically stock wasn't an amazing idea.

Cheers everybody

 

Welcome to TacomaWorld

 

Agreed. But depends a lot on the details - which we don't have. @Bocotacointhewild do you have specifics on what they're quoting you? A full list of the parts they are replacing would be very helpful.

CV axle, LCA (ball joint), steering rack and coolant leak would all be maintenance/repairs and I'd want to look at that stuff on it's own.

Then, the "suspension" (I imagine you're talking about springs/shocks) to me would be an upgrade opportunity. If they're quoting you for new, OEM shocks/springs you may just be able to get some killer aftermarket upgrades for the same price. Then, this doesn't feel like something that's getting you back to zero and instead it's getting you ahead with mods you want.

 

Post in your local forum, make some friends quickly that are willing to help, offer beer and pizza, and swap all those parts out.

welcome to TW

 

I completely agree but I can't tell them that lol.

 

Welcome to TW!

 

I suppose that's certainly worth a shot. Thanks for the advice.

 

I've attached both estimates. I see this as an opportunity to upgrade as well, so I had them draw up multiple estimates. For reference, HonToy also quoted $1,600 to replace the rack and pinion.

I don't really have time constraints either, I'm just not sure anybody would be willing to help with this, it seems like a pretty decent-sized job.

 

Well, looks like you're reading the estimates incorrectly - at least partially so. The estimate total includes multiple options. You need to pick choose which options you want and when the ones you don't want are removed the cost will go way down.

Connor Balls:

• Aftermarket parts (stock) $3700
• OEM Parts (stock) $5500
• OEM Parts + Bilstein 6112 $5400

5th Gear Auto:

• $2996 for the suspension is tough to deconstruct. Maybe not a bad deal if this is 6112/5160 but too much if it's 5100
• They're quoting UCA's, Connor Ball's didn't quote those. $1600 is WAY too much. You can get near new ones from a 3rd gen Tacoma for $0-100. Buy your own parts and pay them to install. Also, you don't need SPC's if you stay around 2-2.5". Doesn't hurt to have them but I'm sure you can get them cheaper - buy the Mevotech version and save half.
• Alignment is over priced unless they're a specialty shop
• Brake line prices are crazy high and you probably don't need them anyway. Buy the parts you want and have them install them.
• They list brake fluid service twice on the estimate
• There are also a ton of other general maintenance items on this quote which aren't on the other one so you're comparing apples to oranges.
• This is a massive estimate and I barely scratched the surface while skimming. This one would take a while to digest.

 

I'm just a public school and state college grad and I come up with $5500. Coolant leak could be a hose clamp/radiator. If it head gasket or intake related it could be expensive. If you like the truck and it's done well in your possession it's your call. I just spent about $3500 on my son's 07 AC 4x4. Tires, shock/struts, condenser, brakes all around including calipers/rotors, fog lights, radio, tonneau cover, head/tail lights and an electrical issue. The thing is running awesome and in my mind going to go another 100,000 easy. It has 180K on it right now and counting. Good luck and enjoy the day.

 

You're right, I was a little off on the Hontoy estimate which is ~$6780 including rack and pinion and not including rear suspension.

The 5th estimate is ~$10k with a lift and a lot of extras. The estimates are probably both around 7-8k for everything.

The coolant leak is ... somewhere. I can't tell. I'll take a closer look when I take the truck back. I will have to ask if they will install parts that they don't purchase.

 

That seems like quite the deal!

 

Dude just fix your truck. You can do the CV and balljoint yourself. Get on youtube to learn how to do it and rent the tools from autozone. If your suspension is clapped just get some 3rd gen tacoma stock suspension take offs on the facebook marketplace for close to free. Find your coolant leak and fix it. Make sure your rack and pinion are actually toast. I had a shop tell me the same thing and I all needed was new radiator support bushings to fix the clunking in my truck. You own one of the last awesome tacomas, the 2nd gen, and new cars are a ton of money for something that’s going to need maintenance and repair as well.

 

Funny story... I'm not allowed to do maintenance on the truck anywhere at my apartment complex. Hence why I am frustrated that the DIY shop in Denver is closed. I appreciate the input for sure though.

 

If they won't, then find a new shop.

 

I’ve been there haha, can be a bummer. Hit up your friends for a spot!

 

Haven't really found any luck with that approach. I have a feeling the shops that would do that also have significant wait times, and that is okay.

That is exactly what I did. Upper control arms, lower control arms, and front suspension are now done. Lowers were a PITA and the bolt for the uppers really had me questioning Toyota's design ingenuity.

Took it to a shop and had it aligned today. Turns out one of the tie rods is seized. No surprise there given that I had to make a number of cuts on seized hardware to get the LCAs out. The sawzall blades I had available were not doing the job, but after a home depot restock with the best diablo and Milwaukee blades for thick metal, my buddy and I had no more issues. There are more than a couple of things that are seized on this truck so I am glad to have the blades for the future.

I was impressed the best the shop could do was .13 off for the toe on the side with the seized tie rod. Not too shabby.

Good news too! No active coolant leak!

I also compiled a parts list for hardware for my 2010 4wd for replacing upper and lower control arms. I couldn't find that anywhere other than diagrams on toyota parts websites coupled with FSM disassembly guides for reference in order to understand what is recommended to be replaced and what is not. I will post that later, not really sure where to put it.

During the process, I also discovered the sway bar links are a massive pain to remove when the spot for the 6mm allen is corroded. So I ordered greaseable sway bar links which will go on with the new sway bar bushings. Those jobs will go nicely with my rack and pinion replacement soon. I am looking forward to energy suspension bushings for the rack and pinion as well as the sway bar. I am also excited to spend a weekend replacing the radiator and body mount bushings when it gets a bit warmer.

I am glad I ended up taking your advice Findus11. I really love this truck.

Most advice on this forum seems to be "do the work yourself with OEM parts". So far so good.

 

Figured I would revive my own thread since I also refuse to let this truck die. The current goal is 1million miles, hopefully on the stock engine. I’ve been feverishly doing my own maintenance when necessary/convenient. I spent most of the last year traveling abroad and unfortunately the truck has been a bit neglected, but no more. Soon I will be replacing the power steering rack, the needle bearing with the ecgs bushing, replacing all the u-joints in the driveline and the center bearing, the clutch slave cylinder, the rear brakes, and the body mounts (already did the front two). I’ll be leaving the rear seats uninstalled and using some of that space for a lithium battery and associated dual battery setup things. Also going to figure out a portable diesel heater situation. While I am at it I will flush brake/clutch fluid (duh) and do an oil change.

Since I last posted about a million years ago I took Findus11’s advice above worded very eloquently: “dude just fix your truck”. I installed a 2” ome lift in the rear and durobump bumpstops. I am sure there are a number of other things I’ve done that I could post about later if it made sense. Instead I will upload some photos.