License plate light Disable while In Reverse (DIR)

Probably a good idea moving forward. And possibly an option for dual outputs. I cut the WP where it ended (which was perfect length as is) and spliced to dual wiring right where I cut. I probably did about 2.5-3’ of extending over to the right side and probably the same amount to bring the left leg back into the left side bumper area. I didn’t really need that much because the Rigids have a 1’ or so long jacketed cord on them, but I found I was able to route the wiring more neatly and following other factory looms if I had the added length.

 

They shouldn't illuminate if TAILS is not selected. Are you wanting them not ON at certain times the TAILS are selected?

 

No, I like the way they operate as is for general use. What I want the ability to do though is to be able to turn them off sometimes when in reverse and tails are on. That way I’m not forced to have them on if I’m backing up towards people (and blinding them) or in a place where I don’t want a bunch of light at night. Most of the time they will operate as the harness is designed (automatically on in R when tails are on).

I also want a switch to be able to manually turn them on anytime.

I could have accomplished this all with a 3-way on-off-on switch but I don’t like the switch options that are available.

 

I think your post was edited quickly, so yes, I want the ability to have the lights not on when in reverse and tails are selected. But I don’t want that to be all the time, I just want to disable that temporarily. I like the automatic function 99% of the time and the fact that they’re powered by the tails is perfect because then they aren’t needlessly on during the day when in reverse.

I just want a few additional options is all, and will be manually wiring that up when I have the time.

 

For OFF select, interrupt the feed or ground to the added LED's.
For ON anytime, add fused power from switch and add 2 way diodes on REVERSE wire AND TAIL wire to DIR Relay.

 

Thanks, that is the plan. I can also accomplish the same thing using an added 5-pin relay but it’s more wiring work than the diode method. Either way I’ll have to run decent amounts of wiring up into the cab which I’m not looking forward to, but it is what it is.

 

Finally got my

$219 Kenwood CMOS740HD KENWOOD EXCELON CMOS-740HD High Definition Rear backup Camera for use with Select KENWOOD Receivers

Kenwood CMOS740HD camera mounted in the stock location. This camera, combined with aux lights, used with the DIR harness is the trifecta for perfection on this truck backing up.

Glad to have the DIR back!

The camera is slightly crooked due to the way the audio shop mounted it but that will be corrected soon. At least it’s in.

 

I like this!!

Couple of Questions:
1. Do you have the OEM head end screen in your dash or did you upgrade that also? (don't want to improve the camera only to still have a crappy view.)
2. Is the Kenwood camera plug and play? (Do you just unplug and unscrew the OEM camera and then plug in/screw in the Kenwood one?)

Thanks in advance

 

I have a Kenwood DMX957XR in the dash. I’ve had that radio for a few years across various trucks. I was going to sell it when I got the Tacoma, thinking I’d like the factory head unit enough to keep it (since it has factory CarPlay), but alas I thought the stock head unit was terrible so I swapped in the Kenwood.

The Kenwood camera is not plug and play at all, it has a built in 10 foot cable and then another 15 foot extension harness. The camera cable threads into the extension harness, then the extension harness gets spliced to key-on power and plugs into the yellow video jack on the back of the Kenwood head unit.

The camera itself needed a bracket fabricated to mount it in place in the tailgate.

 

With that said, the germes lab kit for 3rd gen Tacoma does allow direct connect VGA of a rear camera (as well as front) in addition to working with the factory camera. I run one in my '16 and I am hooked on it, no extra buttons, anytime F&R camera, auto on in reverse to forward, auto off at whatever speed or time. Count me as a big fan.

 

Off topic, I have not been able to get mine to work but I'm outside any return window. Which leads did you apply power to?

 

Germes?

I have an in cab ignition switched fuse block leveraging 8 gauge off my aux battery and poutlet1 as a trigger to a high current relay. One circuit feeds the front camera another the Germes.

are you asking about Germes power since you have an aftermarket head unit? The easy play is using the remote output of the head unit or the ignition power in the radio harness.

 

I'll have to do some troubleshooting and report back in the correct thread. I haven't looked at it in a few months. Entune 3.0 headunit in mine.

 

At first I didn’t think I needed one of these, but after many rainy days with the glare being unbearable, I’ve decided I want one. @daveeasa you got any in stock or making more at the moment?

 

Yes, I have some stock of the basic DIR, aux output option is built to order.

 

What’s the difference?
I assume basic is PnP and aux is for 3rd party head unit or something?

 

Hah, no. Aux is a redirect of plate lights when in reverse to feed weatherpack connector which is PnP for BD S1 or S2 or can feed whatever aux reverse lights you want.

 

In that case I will take a basic one, since I have no idea when I will be doing rear facing bumper lights.

 

@daveeasa I just PMed you, but I will tag you just in case.
I placed an order but the address finder put the wrong city. That always happens to my area.

 

I also love the Germes Lab kit in my 2021 w/Entune 3.0 the front camera when parallel parking downtown is a godsend.

from what i remember when installing mine, no leads needed power applied since the piggyback harness plugs in between the truck harness and headunit. the front camera I used is hooked up to the 12v power and ground connections since it is a 12v camera. some camera's (including the factory camera i believe) are 6v cameras, but since mine was 12v those are sitting unused. the trick to getting mine to power up and work was the dip switch settings, i know there was something that had to be changed on the last switches which arent listed in the manual, but there is a thread on the forums somewhere that has that info someone got from The Taco Garage.