The LED SAE J583 Fog Pod & Fog Light Review

If you're already set up for an OE-type mount, the Elite Series would be a major upgrade. On-par with Sport, but you'd still notice a huge increase in output compared to the current setup. Just a thought!

 

Osram and Philips bulbs make quite a difference. But I also understand exactly where you're coming from. I've got an 01 Outback and I know my Acme MH1 setup is not very good compared to my other retrofits (like the RX350's in my Tacoma). But like yours, the basic retrofit is worlds better than any bulb upgrade in the stock housing. It's a beater car, so the $120 retrofit is more than enough.

Ballasts won't really increase output if sticking with 35w. But a ballast like the Hella Gen 3 (found in mid 2000's Audi A4's and A6's in junk yards) will warm up far faster and they are way more reliable. I've had issues with Morimoto, NHK and Hylux ballasts, though Hyllux has been most reliable for me out of the 3. The 45w Hylux isn't bad, but I would highly recommend an Osram or Philips bulb with higher wattage. The UV filtration is what damages projector bowls, not heat and Osram/Philips bulbs have a much higher quality UV filtration than aftermarket bulbs, even Morimoto.

 

Are you talking about elite series for a 2018 Silverado?

If referring to the Tacoma I already purchased the round Max amber SSC3 with a standard mount, trying to get away from the oe mount for a Toyota, the way I’ll set the new mount up will be easier to adjust cutoff, height, etc

 

Not sure how common but one of the Morimoto ballasts make a loud buzzing at startup that goes away after warmup. It’s functioned regardless but not something I feel too comfortable with

You’re talking about these ballasts? https://www.theretrofitsource.com/oe-replacement-hella-gen3l-B-BL202?quantity=1

 

Not to derail from fogs, but HIDs should should be run at the designed 35w power level. Running at higher wattage will get diminishing output returns, lower efficiency, more heat, lower color temp and reduced bulb life. There are no automotive HID bulbs designed for higher than 35w. Over-wattage ballasts are often to compensate for subpar HID bulbs by non-OEM grade manufactures. Reputable lighting manufactures would not sell over wattage ballasts, definitely avoid any ballast products that are over wattage. OEM grade ballasts are certainly superior in startup time as shown in that linked post, as well as long term reliability.

 

Yup, those are the ballasts. You can usually snag a pair from a salvage yard for $25 a pair or less because they are rarely on their parts list and they just randomly pick a price. I've used many of them and never had one fail. There are a few different wire lengths and they are mostly 90 deg bulb connectors but I have had a set with straight bulb connectors. I can't tell you what vehicle is was from though. You do have to have a T10 or T15 torx to remove the ballast from the light assembly and I think a T20 to remove the headlight.

As far as the buzzing issue. That's likely the ignitor portion that looks like a small box in-between the ballast and the bulb connection. That is generally the component that fails. The Hella ballast has the ignitor built into the ballast so there is no external parts.

Like @crashnburn80 stated, anything more than 35w is not recommended at all. I should have worded my previous post better. It degrades bulbs faster, it will burn the bowl at some point (sometimes as quick as 6mo) and I think it's a bit too much light at times. I tried 50w ballasts back in the day because more power is better, right? haha The light is so intense that it makes it difficult to see outside of the beam pattern, especially above the cutoff. It was really bad going up and down rolling hills where the cutoff is dipping in the valley. 35w is amazing already too.

 

Which is a real bummer. This miniature 2000W HID bulb could do such great things for offroad applications... or fog lights (see, it's on topic)

 

180,000 lumens.

Granted you’d need quite the alternator upgrade to run a pair.

 

.......but will they melt snow

LOL

 

Small but mighty?

 

Impressively so. I added a set of them (wide pattern) under the bumper of a relative's car as backup lights. Amazing!

 

Curious to see how these will do with the boost HX chips. Car is a long way off from running though

 

I put them in my cousin's 1997 Austin-Healey 3000 replica to replace the pathetic factory backup lights. We finished at noon, so we really didn't get to test them at night. I called him later and he said, "They damn near melted the driveway!" Yea, he was impressed.

 

I believe the "Pro" SSC1 uses a cree xhp-50, which a 4 die LED utilizing (4) cree xp-G dies. I'd assume based off the lux/lumen rating the sport models use a single xpl-Hi (same LED as the SS3 pro). While the boost HX *can* handle 8+amps if kept cool, the LEP ssc1 model would still get much higher spot intensity.

 

I think the fog SSC1 is the only one in the lineup that has boost HX chips.

https://www.diodedynamics.com/stage-series-c1-yellow-sae-dot-fog-standard-led-pod-pair.html

 

Hey all, been following this thread for quite some time. I've got a question that's a bit complicated, but I'll try to ask in the simplest possible terms.

I have RX350 retrofit headlights, and they are awesome. Super sharp cutoff aside, they have an excellent intensity gradient to them, which results in a uniform perception of illumination from the near-field to way down the road.

I'd really like to get some foglights that have similar features. Sharp cutoffs are a must, of course, because I want to aim them as high as possible to maximize their throw distance without blinding people. I'd also really like the foglights to feature a gradient, with the highest intensity in a narrow band right at the cutoff. If the brightness tapers down quickly enough, it should prevent the perception of near-field washout.

I currently have DD SS3 Pros in my Slee ARB foglight surround brackets. As everyone in this thread knows, the cutoffs on the Pros are a little fuzzy and they don't have much of a gradient present. Because of this, the near-field washout effect is very pronounced.

What LED pods should I consider as replacements?

 

I think you will like the Elites https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...og-light-review.554813/page-307#post-27996182

 

RX350 retros running good bulbs are top notch as covered in the earlier post.

Fogs should be aimed in accordance with the following aiming specs:
https://www.danielsternlighting.com/images/Aim.pdf

Few fogs exist on the market with the gradient you specify that will work in your application. Morimoto HXB is likely the best fit based on your criteria, though the beam is not as wide compared to other market options. The DD Elites would be a good fit, but don't have a pod mount for an aftermarket bumper. Gen 1 Rigid 360s had the dual zone gradient, but output intensity is lower, the Gen 2 units have the upper and lower beams overlapped, so there is no gradient. Rigid SR-M in the TRD OEM LED assemblies have the Toyota gradient, but they are half pods and performance is underwhelming.

Fogs should only be run when conditions warrant their use, they should never be run unnecessarily for more light with the headlights. Under the conditions when you need to run a fog, near field is likely all you can see. A good gradient is certainly beneficial to minimize the foreground light washout, but a fog is going to produce significant foreground light compared to the headlights as that is their purpose, it is to illuminate the edges of the roadway in the near field so you can find the road at low speeds in poor weather. Using selective yellow can aid not only in improved poor weather performance but also in reducing the negative impact of bright foreground light reducing your night vision, hence reducing that near field washout.

 

The height of the HXB pattern gives me pause. I worry that the taller hot spot will result in the same near-field washout I'm perceiving with my DD SS3 Pros. Ideally, I'd like to find a fog light that has a narrow and focused hot spot right at the cutoff line, much like what my RX350 retrofit headlights have.

I wish those were an option, since they satisfy all my performance criteria. My ARB bumper has Slee foglight surrounds installed, which require use of standard 3x3 inch LED pods mounted in U-brackets.

The limited visibility/low speed situation you describe isn't what I usually have to face in my area. Normally, I kick my fog lights on to better illuminate lane markings on the highway. This is only done when the pavement is wet; the highway in question has no embedded reflectors, so the painted lines are my only reference. As you might imagine, spotting painted lane markings with an even wet sheen across the entire roadway isn't always easy. I'm not the only driver that struggles to identify lanes on this highway, as accidents are common when the road surface is wet.

I wonder if I'm describing the function of an aux low beam instead of a fog light. I also wonder of @Diode Dynamics' upcoming SS3 Laser pod will provide the crisp cutoff and gradient I seek.

 

I had Diode Dynamics SS3 Pros (selective yellow fogs) and moved up to the Pros in my Tacoma, then my 4Runner. My son has a set of amber Morimoto HXB fogs in his Scion tC. I also have a set of Hella 550 mid beam auxiliary lights (from a previous vehicle) sitting in my lighting stash in the basement. So that kind of covers many of the brands, models and beam patterns you mentioned above. Based on that, let me offer my thoughts.

First, yes, the Pros are pretty awesome, but the spill above the cutoff is the big problem. Going to the Max solved that problem for me. The Pros then went into my son's tC where they were mounted quite low in the factory fog positions. The uplight was somewhat less of an issue in his vehicle than mine, but still remained.

We recently installed a set of the Morimoto HXB's and he's much happier. The beam isn't as wide as the Pros like crash stated, but we both really like them. I only have one picture handy of them and it was taken before we got the final aiming done. (They were a bit low.) Here's what they looked like before the re-aim.



That said, what you may need is indeed an auxiliary low beam. Good luck finding one though. Hella used to make a really nice one called a "Model 550 Mid Beam." I added a set of to a 1999 Mazda 626 with absolutely pathetic low beams. They worked quite well and that's why I removed them when I sold the car. Here's what they look like: