Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

I’m glad I’m not the only one, I accidentally did that in lo range one time and I was like hmm I should probably be nicer to the truck lol.

 

And apparently about 2K can be saved by hitting up your local oreilly or Napa or whatever for the rest of what you need to make a fully dressed engine. All things that can be changed down the road when you recoup funds anyways.

Point is. You don’t have to get stupid. You can cut corners in certain spots knowing it can always be upgraded later. So many people jump in with the mentality of wanting the best of the best, realize the cost 1/2 way through and quit the project altogether. I can say straight up, I’ve been part of some low cost builds. My own and others. And they still partied HARD.

And if you really want to be cheap. Used 4.8, 5.3 or 6.0’s are a dime a dozen. Throw a cam at it and have fun.

 

Just got home after driving 18 hours straight through the night, so as promised, a few more photos!

 

Damn, that silver Taco is so rad!

 

Hopefully these make it easier to remove the skid plate. Had to hammer a socket on all the old bolts everytime i dropped the skid.

 

Jeezzzuuusss, scrape the skid much? That is awesome, wish I could say I get that much use out of the skid plate!

 

Yours weren’t countersunk?

 

We do not counter sink steel skids

 

I forgot you offered them in steel. Also I guess I didn’t pay attention to the picture well enough lol.

 

I feel lucky to have gotten an early revision then, mine is countersunk. I also added a tail onto the back of it which attaches to my trans/t-case skid, and made countersinks in it for the same hardware. Just saying though (to the guy with the scraped up skid), the countersink can be done to it for flat bottom smoothness...

 

We stopped doing it because if you abuse your skid like the pic above you will never be able to get counter sunk Allen bolts out

 

If these dont work ill probably redesign the mounts so the bolts are recessed into some tube.

Ill be ordering a new front crossbar and skid and other hardware after koh. Building anything off the current bent crossbar and skid would suck.

 

Did this truck ever get a build thread?

 

This whole thread is it’s build thread

 

I apologize for derailing this thread at any point. But yeah all the info on that truck is in here. Except any action shots

 

Never apologize, I love that this thread is any and all things cool!

 

If you look closely, you can’t see any of the jdfab products on here lol. But there keeping he steering and front end together.

Side note, think I’m wearing the stock steering rack out. Starting to get some play when the wheel is centered but only when centered.

 

Did you run through the list and check the steering shaft and tie rod Heims? Did you check the slide rack it’s self? It slides on brass bushings, are they tight? If not you can rebuild the slide rack for less than $5

 

I haven’t. Gonna “slowly” start going through things before KOH. All front and rear pivots realistically have less than 1k miles. But steering has this one weird thing. There’s lots of play at the wheel only when it is centered. Which makes me think it’s the gears in the rack. Haven’t done much checking since noticing it since it’s only noticeable on pavement and I don’t do a lot of that lol. But what I have checked when the wheel is centered, there’s a good 5° of play, but at 90° or 180° the play is gone. This is a recently noticed development so I’m hoping to find something the next few weeks once I start tearing the front apart and checking things.

 

If the rack teeth or pinion was bad then you would have the same amount of play at any steering angle... jack it up and check that first

Also check to make sure the rack isn’t moving side to side in the bushings... the silver truck was just doing this (I can email you the vid tomorrow... it’s wild to watch). We just did a batch of nylon rack bushings that completely fixed the issue