What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

LOL poor thing never had LT. its still got the arms from the frame swap and i have to cut the seized bolts out.



but thats truck would be the one i'd LT... with no roof and no bed... and really not much of anything.. its a beater i'll make street legal.. BARELY

 

We all knew that but its even funnier to hear it again

 

Filled and running. Finally!
Kind of wish I did the thermostat but she's still staying between 180 and 192

I'll put a new one in when I do the swap.

That hf funnel is a mandatory for this job. Made things sooo easy to flush and fill.

 

Glad you got it all sorted and running again!

 

Me too haha! Thanks for all the input.

 

Changed lower ball joints on my kids truck

 

Anyone remember what belt goes with the CS144 alternator?

I want to say it's a power steering belt, but can't remember.

 

Washed and detailed it.

 

It depends on the pulley size of the cs144 as there are 2 different sizes. Smaller pulley is the ps belt. Larger 52mm(I think can't remember) just uses the regular alt belt.


Or I have that backwards.


Either way depends on the cs144

 

Right on

 

Just got the "big 7" cable kit from the jeepcables.com site. Anyone done it before? About to wire up a blue sea fuse box and some extras and figured I'd replace the 23 year old cables while in there.

Also noticed the smallest fuse for the alt included in the kit is 150A, our alternators stock (3rz) put out like 80A right?

 

Anyone running SPC UCA’s? If so what is your experience?

I’ve been going through inner CV boots like crazy over the last 12 months, two on the drivers side, one on the passenger side. So I found some High Angle inners from ORS and rebuilt the two on the truck and my spare. Now on the passenger side the boot is coming into contact with the spring perch on my King coilover. I figure swap out for a new set of coilovers that don’t extend down as low, FOX 2.0 2.5, maybe Bilstein 6112’s. When that happens I’ll need an alignment, and I was talking to the shop that I asked about playing with the castor to hopefully fix the fender well rubbing issue due to my 285/75R16’s. He asked me if I was running SPC’s, which is what brings up the question.

Currently I’m running TC UCA’s and it’s about time for new balls and bushings. But they don’t have the camber and castor adjustability of the SPC’s. They also just don’t hold up long term from my experience (YMMV). This will be the 4th time I’ve rebuilt them, and I’m wondering if the sealed ball joint will have better longevity than the uniball? My other concern is the camber adjustability and the lack of a hard stop in the oval cut out for the ball joint. If I’m going in and rebuilding the suspension, I’d like to bite the bullet and do it all at the same time.

*In full disclosure I’m also running Spidertrax spacers (adding to the fender well rub issue) because that gives me the tire offset to clear my UCA’s with tire chains. Not an everyday need, but when your by your self and you need chains, you need chains. Also running 700 lb. springs on my Kings to offset the bumper, skids, and winch.

 

I'm currently running SPCs. Have been for 5 years. Went from 265s, to 285s, and now to 315s with them.

I'm also currently running Fox 2.5 extended coilovers with 700 lb springs. I'm running 1.25 spacers. with 4.75 back spaced wheels..

With the 285s I was able to leave the SPCs at the neutral position. (The one the directions suggest upon install, can't remember which letter it was) and adjust my caster forward with the alignment cams on the LCAs (I actually ended up doing the cam eliminators and adjusted them to the farthest forward setting).

I did do the "pinch weld mod" with a hammer and grinder at the corners behind the wheel wells for the 285s, but with that, I didn't have any problem with rubbing.

I ran ORS high angle inners WITH the "boot slide mod" and only had an inner CV boot crack one time. Never had a problem with the CV contacting the coil over. I also use the high angle outer boots from All Pro. I had one of those crack... but I think that was actually from not being careful when either me or my son were putting in the lower shock bolt after adjusting the coil over.

To give yourself enough clearance for tire chains though, you may be looking at having to tub the back of the wheel well though. I'm not sure. But with 285s I had enough clear they didn't rub... I'm not sure I would have had enough clear to allow tire chains not to rub.

Hope this helps.

 

Copy that, thanks!
I’ve done the pinch weld, and “fender well message”. My summer mud tires on Method 309’s have minimal rub, but on my winter AT’s and American Racing wheels it’s much more severe rubbing. All has to do with the backspacing and offset, just trying to dial it in once and for all… which may be akin to finishing a Tacoma build.

 

Lmao... Tacoma builds never get finished bud. Trust me.

If you're interested, I'll have a set of SPC UCAs for sale shortly.

 

Are you going LT or something else?

Definitely keep me posted when they’re available, we’ll see where I’m at in my process.

 

LT... Starts (probably) tonight.

 

And Saturday

 

Here's what I hope:
-Tear down tonight (suspension and pull fenders)
-Make up templates for the coil bucket reinforcements tomorrow.
-Fabricate and burn everything in on Saturday
-Install and reassemble on Sunday.

Fabricate includes coil bucket reinforcements (sides), need to fab gusset plates for the air bump mounts also (should be easy, just cut 3/16x2 inch flat strap the way I want them)

What we need to (weld) install = The coil bucket reinforcements, air bump mounts, UCA double shears, and bypass shock hoop.

 

Well you already know I'm bringing my hood, gloves, and jacket.

If I need to bring an extra angle grinder or two with some flap discs let me know.

Bringing an extra bottle of 75/25 just in case.