Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

I get what you're saying. But I was looking for some specifics on the truck, and sifting through 810 pages is tough. So I'll ask more directly. The silver truck is running the 2.5" kit? How much was taken off from the fender flares? I'm getting ready to bump up a size and want to trim my fenders. I'd eventually like to run the lower pivot and 2.5 kit, but the funds are not endless. All my money goes to support my kid playing hockey.

 

I wanna see for science!

 

i no longer have cab mounts....wait i guess thats not true the rear ones are still there....too much of a pain to go cut them out for no gain.

 

Sent it to ya

 

Post the video, show us the problem please! I already had rack movement with aftermarket bushings, had success with whiteline bushings and reaming the frame and bushing sleeve to fit 1/2" bolts instead of the 12mm stock bolts that had a 11mm shank, allowing the whole bushing sleeve to float side to side on the bolt - causing the steering wheel to change angles for what is straight driving.

 

Isn’t part of the problem also the stock bolt shank diameter? Iirc it’s thinner than the threaded part, thus relying on torque of the bushings/sleeves to keep the rack in place?

 

Yes this is what I experienced.

 

Yes, our kit comes with different hardware that’s shanked correctly

 

You’ve labeled it a “kit” now I know it’s gonna be expensive lol

 

I had the same thing on my old rack. Only noticed when driving on the freeway when the wheel was centered. After putting the slide rack in with a new rack and pinion it went away. So not sure if it was the bushing being worn out or the gears. My money would be on the bushings though.

 

I changed mine out to poly a while back. Would it be worth it to change mine to these nylon?

 

It is hard for me to see the physical way that the bushings would cause play in the center of the steering only, unless the bolts holding the rack to the frame were loose, or the rubber in the bushings was completely dissolved and non existent - but still, that would have impacts everywhere not just center I would think. If the rack shifts on the frame due to the bolt shank issue, the only thing that happens is the steering wheel becomes crooked for a straight drive, wrestling the steering wheel all the way to lock could sometimes bring it back some until it got knocked one way or the other again. I also had a lot of clunking in the steering system, like the steering wheel would shake and clunk on cracks and manhole covers and small bumps and such... it gave a lot of feedback that I could hear and feel in the steering wheel.

But no matter what, the mesh of the rack teeth was tight, tiny steering input was exactly felt in the steering of the truck.

 

Yea, but it'll be worth it. I already know I need a set.

 

No, even if it was a .25 inch crossbar it would still bend, my best option would be to add vertical supports. I already want to fab a new front bumper and relocate the radiator, so ill do everything at the same time.

 

You don’t feel the play when the wheel is turned because the bushing has already been squished / loaded. My oe bushings were horrible like that too so i switched to the energy bushings years ago but they get soft after a few years too so these nylon ones are the way to go imo

 

Ahh... OK I can see that situation now. My stock bushings never had that problem, but when I put in Energy black poly bushings I had nothing but problems from day 1 with the rack shifting side to side. And it wasn't a lose or play sort of thing, it would get knocked off center one way or the other even when the bolts were tight, either from a turn to lock with pressure, or from a general impact from bump or offroading. Result would be a 11 or 1 o'clock steering wheel when the truck was straight. Solved my problem with a whiteline bushing kit (one piece sleeve instead of two like energy), and 1/2" through bolts that fit snug in the frame and in the bushing sleeve. Perfect ever since for me, but I'm not doing the stuff you all are, and not wearing out or breaking the actual bushing itself.

 

So I done fucked up, I have the 2.25 kit and lower pivots. I am still testing how I want it all set up, lower forward or backwards for everything to ride nice, so I have not drilled the lower pivots to lock the cam bolts in. Well after a hard weekend the alignment got out of specs no big deal I cleaned every really good and took it to my buddy’s shop to do the alignment myself. Don’t really trust his guys haha. I got everything where I wanted it and was tightening the first nut and then it got loose… turns out I stripped the nut not the bolt. With all the spare nuts he and I both have, I can not find one that fits. So I just put the one lock nut on that still works and tightened it up no problem but don’t want to leave it with just one.
Can I get the nut size for the rear cam bolt and front or do I just need to call the shop tomorrow and order a spare set for both the front and rear.
I was using hand tools and it’s didn’t even get really tight right before the nut just gave up so not really sure what happened.

 

It’s just 5/8 18

 

Top locks are hard on bolts, and themselves. Using some form of lubricant is ideal. For final assembly, loctite doubles as a lubricant.

 

Something I am curious if other people have experienced. In order to make the front of my truck level at the frame rails my driver side needs quite a bit more preload even when I have relocated the battery. Is this normal?