What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

I've got a cold saw, abrasive saw, and 4 angle grinders. I think we're good on that front. (I do need to get some flap discs and cut off wheels for the grinders though, now that I think about it)

 

I'll bring that instead; got plenty since I buy those 10 packs from Amazon.

 

Didn't make it quite as far as I would have liked. But not bad considering I got home from work 2 hours ago. (both sides are torn down this far)


Main thing is I got the UCAs out of the way, so I can make templates for the coil bucket side reinforcements tomorrow.

It's cold and it's dark, and I'm done for the night.

 

SPC are nice and seem to work fine. Currently product is different than my old stuff but still think they offer good stuff. It won't do anything for your boots though, you need to lower your front end to help with that.

 

That’s pretty damn impressive to have that much torn down in such a short amount of time.

 

Found these gems from the past.

5 years ago to the day.

The answer is now YES... "Going long travel."

(And damn... I'm a lot quicker at this tear down than I was then)

 

I need new coilovers with a different perch elevation.

That way I can extend the small clamp further outboard, and make sure the boot doesn’t kill itself. If I drive it like it is it’ll just destroy the boot.
Fortunately I’ve learned about the law of mods that states “when you change one thing, you will end up changing two to three others.”

 

All the bottom perches are the same. Drop the spring collar to get it lower and you will be better off. The fancy boots don't look like it's doing you and favors. I run the cheap napa axles and they don't seem any worse for wear because I have the coilovers dropped as far as they go.

 

SPC's are fine. I have some on one of mine.


That said, totally not worth the cost to swap them out for the TC ones you have. Just buy new bushings and a new Uniball and send it. The adjustment isn't going to gain you anything significant anyways. Save your money. unless they aren't lasting more than a year. Which I bet they are lasting longer than that. Plus at least you can still service them and will still be able to for a LONG time since they use pretty generic bushings and Uniballs. My SPCs are no deemed "unservicable" and my only option is to buy new ones as they no longer make the bushings for them. So...fuck that.

Lower you CO's a bit and you'll be okay. Should last longer anyways.

 

On Kings all the adjustment is at the top. The perch is fixed at the bottom near the LCA, what you see is what you get. Fox 2.0’s & 2.5’s a few Icons, and Billies all have more clearance down low.

My goal is to kill to stones with one bird, get clearance for the CV’s and fix my fender well rub at the same time. I’ve done the pinch weld flattening and tub massaging. The SPC’s will hopefully allow me to play with the wheel castor by allowing cam bolt’s on the lowers to move and have some room for movement up top. Might even get a little better camber out of them and quit wearing out the outsides of my tires quicker than the insides. Maybe I just need a bigger hammer for my massaging. Either way my TC UCA’s need new bushings and uniballs, which seems to be the case frequently with uniball UCA’s.

The uniball UCA design is great for desert race trucks, but maybe not for “mid travel Taco’s”. A 4 link SAS or LT upgrade running 37’s would be amazing, but until my pockets become a little deeper, tuning what I have is the best answer. Plus in this truck I could add a second T-Case and double down on my torque.

 

front shocks assembled and rack on.. waiting on jamb nuts to put the outer tie rods on.. then this thing can roll for the first time. (yes the spindles are crusty. they're temp prerunner spindles to make it roll)

 

I think you are missing the point. Taking some height out of the COs will reduce the axle angles, reducing the stress on the CV boots and also slightly increase the gap between the CO bottom cup and the boot.

Are you running the correct misalignment spacers for the lower shock mount. The correct ones are offset and move the bottom of the CO away from the CV axle.

 

Those spindles

 

they're just to make it move so i can cleanup the originals and put new bearings and backing plates on them.


these are the spindles off the frame from utah. lol

 

This is a good question that i forgot about VVV

You should have the longer side towards the axle to push the coil perch away from the axle more. All 1st gen coilovers do this. The lower perch is not that different if at all between brands. I never had this problem with my old Kings. and that's probably why. You must have them backwards on the bolt. Just undo the lower mount, push the bolt out and then either just spin the shock, or if you're luck and/or were smart and put antiseize on them you can just pull them out and swap them front to back.

Or if you have never replaced the lower spherical bearings then you're in for a treat of a project and hopefully your rod ends aren't fucked up.


And maybe they will help. Probably won't though not for the problem you are trying to fix(CV boot rubbing). Your tires? Maybe. Sounds like you've bent the coil buckets likely. Or one of them. Would be inspecting them for failure cracks in the top.

The full ball joint in the SPC's is nicer for the DD/weekend warrior due to how long it can last and sealed. But still my point is if cash is tight, new bushings and uniballs is cheaper than new SPC's. They aren't cheap. and the TC UCAs work great and you can still buy parts for them and will for the foreseeable future. The SPC's might pull the rug out from under you like they did to everyone just a few months ago.

 

Evacuated and refilled Refrigerant in the 4wd, changed oil, and fixed e locker wire that was ripped. The locker engages but can't get the light to come on.

 

Lower your lift some will help. A diff drop may also help slightly. I've had SPCs for years now and never had them move on there own. Having the adjustability in your UCA will allow you to maximize your firewall clearance which is something it sounds like you are after. Their ball joints don't hold up the best for me but neither do OEM so take that for what it's worth. I've also never needed chains. Airing tires down to 10psi has always done great for me. Was just out yesterday with some young guys and convince one of them to lower his pressure from 18 to 13 and it made a huge difference in how he was able to move through the deep powdery snow.

 

And I just got my supercharger, ECU and motor running the best it’s ever been, ugg
Always something! Got to start saving now!
They did sent me an email saying this supercharger definitely will happen and is scheduled for late summer with the TVS rotor design.

This next year I’m guessing there will be a price drop on used superchargers with more used superchargers available when
the more powerful TVS1320 supercharger will replace the current model in 6 months or so.
The new supercharger will be 1.3 liters per cycle at 20,000 revolutions with a rotor twist of 160 degrees with 4 lobes compared to the current 1 liter per revolution, 60 degrees rotor twist, 3 lobes and 14,000 rpm’s, it’s still in the design stage,
So lots more power potential and much more efficient and less heat.
I’m guessing 4-5k range because there probably will be no intercooler or ECU programs or piggy back, just bolt on like the previous model with a BIG pulley to keep boost low and to pass carb tests
1st upgrade will be the smaller pulley to get the potential

 

Looks like I have a fair amount of inspection and evaluation to preform prior to making any purchases. I appreciate the insight and suggestions.

 

I believe the new unit will be intercooled according to Magnuson