Home Improvement Today?

What is going on top of the footings? And I figured your frost line would be lower than that?

 

there will be a foundation wall to top of slab height

right here on the coast , that is as deep as we are required to go , frost line in my area is approx 18" and in this particular site we are not in clay or other expansive soils so ground heave is not really a big concern

 

Are contractors license tests more stringent in British Columbia or Canada in general than the States.

 

I don't know as a comparison to the US but in BC to be able to pull a building permit for a new dwelling or "substantial reconstruction" renovation you must be a Licensed Residential Contractor which entails originally applying for your license with the Province and a Home Warranty provider and then annually completing 20 credits of Continuing Professional Development courses in order to retain your license . New dwelling units in BC are covered by a 2/5/10 year home warranty program

 

I've heard a similar version-

dogs have masters, cats have servants.

 

Will the foundation wall be cinder block?

 

8" cast in place concrete wall , cinder block is pretty uncommon here where seismic considerations are concerned

we have shearwall hold down bolts that embed 20" into the foundation here at about 16 places

 

Couple small jobs this week. Wrapped up today. I'm now on vacation (self-employed) until after the holidays.

 

I didn't even think about the seismic concerns.

 

https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cl8ndk3DcK2/?igshid=NDk5N2NlZjQ=

@OZ-T I think you may need to have a few words with your Ontario co-workers...

 

they're not wrong

 

But, just for temporary bracing to add in the larger carrying beam?

 

they are only bearing the weight of the floor while they install a beam , we're carrying the whole house while we remove and rebuild parts of the foundation and bearing walls

 

Right. I figured as much, but I wanted to confirm.

 

I'm looking at getting a new furnace installed and there are pretty good rebates/incentives for heat pumps. Does anyone have experience with them in colder environments? I'm in Colorado so there's a good amount of time it's below freezing. The unit itself is a combo unit that has a gas furnace that kicks on below a set point. From what I've been told it'll be more expensive to run in the winter but is more efficient than a standard a/c unit for the summer which should hopefully balance out the cost.

 

By combo, you mean NG/LP and HP - oh you said that - NG? Yes I agree, good option. One better would be if the HP was ground heat exchange but damned expensive up front. In CO the HP part only great during shoulder seasons, IHMO.

 

Installed further "stuff" on my shallow well water system. Wow have I added to system where the previous idiots just drank the water and ignored hard deposits and put up with the H2S stank, etc

So initially: Oxidation of sulfur compounds via air/resin bed. Flushed (now every 4 days, seems right.
Then: Water softener using KCl v NaCl
Ran like this but water just wasn't right and wife would get a stommy ache. (We even ran a little experiment with bottled water, yep, she not lying). Bacteria tests were hit and miss. Sometimes yes and no. Means yes to me.

So yesterday in went the whole house VIQUA UV treatment post both above tanks.
And undersink Solo Axeon RO to replace the store bought Aquasana system (have my doubts).

Install was relatively easy.

WOW the water is absolutely tasty pure. I was actually the most surprised!

EDIT: Just did a four person blind taste test vs. Kirkland bottled water. Well water won all four.

I'm done adding dollars! Next idiot gets sweet water too.

 

Figured it was time for a new dishwasher since this one was from the previous owners. Pulled out to find this.. Power is spliced and runs downstairs into a junction box in the utility room directly below. The garbage disposal is also hardwired to it which I was also replacing. The switch for the disposal is near the sink so I imagine it also runs to the junction box? Electrical isn't my strong suit.

 

Hardwired is typical even 5 years and back. BUT should be in a metal enclosure that comes on the DW.
New DW will be plug in. Simple, just put a old work box and cover in the back wooden (cool) wall.

 

It's an old log home from '78 so all new electrical stuff was ran all willy-nilly like I'm finding.