Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Why not run a doubler for pdrop? Will be cheaper IMO

 

I'm not sure about putting more than 4cyl power through an old yota gear case, also they get hot if you're gonna be on the highway lol

 

Best I could figure was needing an adapter to run an RF1A crawl box and then an RF1A and was ending up in the $3500-$4k range. If you have an idea of what I could run that would be cheaper then I'm all ears.

From what I've read and people I've talked to (both are relatively limited), it shouldn't be an issue. As I understand it the gear cases are stronger than the factory chain case, right? Swapping to the 23spline would help as well.

Wasn't aware of it getting hot though. We talking like fluid breakdown / premature failure hot?

 

For anyone that’s used the 1st gen trans mount on a 2nd gen- how much dickery was involved to make it work? Really hoping the bolt pattern matches 100% like they say.

 

Aaah! U read that?? Lol i deleted it over not wanting to start shit. I really meant that with curiosity. Thanks for giving a non triggered response.

 

At any rate im digging this thread, im now on the look out for a wreck. Im thinking 79-83 body, something early 90s or a 1st gen extra or double cab..non streeter. I wanted to throw something together quick and dirty on leaves and 1tons but i think it will morph into links...really like the wfo 1ton link set up.
Was digging around on the web for benders...anyone here use a jd model 32?

 

Hahaha. Email notification quotes the first reply and not the second lol. No worries at all

 

If I recall correctly, it should be a direct fit for a second gen. I have one on my first gen but I turned it into 3 piece and use 2 section only. Made it easier to install/remove.

 

Nice. I’ll know tomorrow for sure haha

I’m debating doing a solid lower link crossmember right underneath my tcase actuator. This would allow for slightly longer links and a more rigid connection. I was originally going to make a removable crossmember underneath the driveshaft. I wonder how much of a pain it would be to get the tranny out if you had to pull the tcase out first? I’m paranoid about locking myself in and having to cut tube if the trans ever had to come out…



terrible picture, but proposed removable lower link crossmember at “x” or proposed permanent crossmember at “o”

 

Maybe im not on the same page but could the mount/crossmember be made modular? Like where the link mounts could be static to the frame and the crossmember be bolted between them?

 

Guess it would depend on the link set up....disregard my thought..

 

If I could get more triangulation with the uppers that would definitely be a feasible solution. Unfortunately, they can only clock in about 6 degrees each, so I will need my lowers to be maxed out.

 

Granted i was leaf sprung(no link mounts) my 85 standard cab was flat bellied and i had some crafty modular trans mount/frame and belly plate/frame mounts going on....when we did it i took two or 3 brains worth of creativity. Im pissed all those pics are on a phone from like 04

 

I’ve probably laid under the truck for hours at this point placing things haha I think if the trans can still come out this may be a viable solution. Would allow me to tie in to the rear mounts and make a really nice flat belly skid like the jeepers.

 

I have only one complaint about the flat belly....all the crap that ended up in there. I guess its more my fault for driving through the things i did..

 

Well that was awful. On to the next step.

 

To answer my own question, it requires some dickery. It required trimming on the passenger side and I cut out the section where the wires are up top. The bushing mounts are too close to the cab so I’ll be buying one of the removable crossmember kits from Barnes or the like and welding some .25” wall DOM to the bottom.

 

Why not build your own mount ?

 

Thought about it, but liked how tucked up and further back this one is. Was going to build a removable link/trans mount all in one, but decided the links would be further back and it seemed risky having both mounted “together” even though it’d be isolated with a bushing.

 

Damn... that's way off. Mines not like that and the flat mount they provided for the frame is effin short as f#ck. Made my own. Braced both side for support and as you can see, there's barely enough room for the poly bushing, for the passenger side.