Long Travel BS Thread

Ok... I'm a little stumped. The top of these bypass hoops look nothing like the picture. Am I missing something here?





The triangles at the top of the ones I recieved have 3 holes like it bolts or lines up to something. (Or like they can be plug welded to the side of a taller coil bucket.)

Of course it's Friday and 5:00

 

@81Trekker
Not sure if you tagged or contacted him yet

 

Thank you!

 

I’m using on of these for the positive side:

$36 Jamgoer 300A Bus Bar Heavy Duty Module Design Power Distribution Block 12V 24V 48V DC Busbar Box with 4X M8(5/16") Terminal Studs for Battery Marine Automotive RV Car Truck (Red)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092Q3JBKD

Negative side:

$15 DaierTek Negative Bus Bar 12V Marine 4 x 5/16" (M8) Terminal Studs 6 x M4 (#8) Terminal Screws Gound Bus Bar Black Negative Power Distribution Block for Automotive Boat Solar System

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B17X95J2

Then for powering a couple things something like this:

$18 WUPP 12 Volt Fuse Block, Waterproof Boat Fuse Panel with LED Warning Indicator Damp-Proof Cover, 6 Circuits with Negative Bus Fuse Box for Car Marine RV Truck DC 12-24V

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GBV2MHN

 

Bummed we missed you guys when you were out there. Would have been a cool meet up. But gotta work to pay the bills and buy truck parts

 

When setting up a SUA, do you guys bolt everything up without welding the new spring perch to get your axle where it needs to be? This seems like the way to do it?

 

Read the instructions on on the TC website. I didn't when setting up my buddies truck and it was a painful two days.
Their instructions are basically remove driveline with tires on the ground, old springs on, measure pinion angle. Remove old springs, install new springs with new perches, do not weld, bolt all up loosely, put tires on ground and measure pinion angle and set to old number. Then tack weld perches. Remove all and weld perches. Before welding perches you could take a spring apart to get the main and cycle for up and down travel/stops.

 

I know the TC kit isnt long travel but would you say it is any better/worse than soa setup? Did you use HD or light duty springs?

 

Yeah man, would have been sweet! My wife and I will be at KOH for a few days at the end, so maybe we can meet up there and say hi!

 

let’s get a group together for KOH. I’ll be out there for the big races too.

 

Made WAY less progress than I wanted today. But I think what we're doing is worth it.

Did get the rest of the tear down complete. And then we got the coil bucket reinforcement plates (about 95%) made. @Kwikvette was some clutch help today. Thank you, for real, Nelson



A CNC table sure would have been nice. But we managed, with angle grinders and determination

 

I’ll be there all week. Best “free time” I’ll probably have will be Monday to Wednesday but even that’s unlikely lol.

But you could probably find me in the pits Wednesday and Thursday as we are doing final prep.

 

So Monday and Wednesday are probably my “free” days actually. Although I might be finishing my pre running on Monday.

 

SUA experts: Any tips/opinions/pointers?
02 xtracab, everything is only tacked in place at the moment. Took 4-5 tries to line everything up

• Pinion-driveline angle 2-3 degrees
• Spring perches front to rear 52.5 right on target
• The bump seems off. Main leaf is nearly flat/ inverted @ 4” from the frame. Is this typical? Or did I mess something up?

(Ride Height)

(Droop no weight)

(Bump/ before inverting main spring)

 

I'll be out there from i think the 2nd on. not sure if i'll be able to stay till the 11th since its my niece's bday on friday but we will see. but if anyone wants to organize something let me know...maybe we should start a thread in the long travel just for a meetup or something to get something planned.

 

What ended up happening with the hoops? Still don’t look like the ones on the site.

Also your coilover tower doesn’t look like it’s enjoying this process.

 

LOL... that frowny face in the coil bucket... LOL

I just cut the bracket and welded to a piece of DOM that was thexact right size to be beveled where it nested in the center hole on the top of the coil bucket.

I actually like the way it ended up, where it will end up being easier to get a wrench on the top plate bolt for the coil over than it would have been.

I'm lucky I'm running a 1 inch body lift. It gave me way more room to move in there, and made the way I did the top of the bypass hoops easier.

The bypass shock mount moved up a little bit. But, when I end up running bypasses, I can just make that up in the rod end.

Right now, I just wanted to get as much structure on the coil bucket as I could, and since I was already doing the UCA double shears, I figured it was a good time to do the bypass hoops.

 

@Robmonster117
How much travel is it cycling?
I think 2" inverted is as far as you want to go, could be wrong.

 

Currently measuring 18" @ full droop (Top of axle to bottom of frame)
I suppose the axle perches I'm using are low profile (<1" rise) That may be part of the extra space Im seeing at bump.
4" when the leaf starts inverting seems odd. Id like to get full bump up closer to the frame or on it if possible. Good news is the driveline seems happy through the range of motion