The Official Unofficial Super Pacific X1 Camper Thread

It's still kind of a PITA as far as I'm concerned. My cabinet causes part of the issue, but that's a similar obstruction to trying to load a 2nd or 3rd bike over the tailgate through the opening.

In the pic below there's a 4th bike out of sight on the driver's side. We had to partially lower the tailgate to be able to get the black bike in, and then close it once that bike was in position.

I don't see why there would be any issues with the rear hatch being open on rough FS road shuttles aside from dust. I was thinking more long freeway drives could be an issue where it can be buffeted by wind turbulence. Even if it was an issue those struts are pretty cheap to replace.

 

Yeah, we had to do something similar with my old set up. Open the tailgate halfway and load the bikes like that while someone was holding the tailgate. This looks like I'll have a bit more vertical space. We used to only be able to put small/med bikes in there and all the large/XL ones had to go on a rack.

Thanks for the info!

 

in case this hasn't been shared on here yet:
https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/spo/7560127165.html

 

if you do not wheel hard you may not see many issues. I would add the front lip but big thing is to check your clamps on a regular basis. The regular ones can loosen but keep an eye and they do not separate which is great. In my recent trip to Baja I almost lost my camper. I had "upgraded" to the beefy mounts they no longer offer (they noted due to cost). The big downside to these is if they loose they fall apart as there is no direct connection only pressure. The 1st and 3rd versions stay connected.

We were bombing some washboards and whoops and noticed my camper lift up on the back of my truck. When I inspected all 4 were no longer doing anything and luckily the weight of the camper and the side lips kept it there. Almost got really bad. All the mounts are horrible in my opinion for the trucks but regular checkups are key.

If you have the "beefy" ones as they are called, check them add loc tight, and check them over and over.

 

Yeah I shoved two pieces of wood and secured em with bolts to the X1 at my front camper/bed lip. It's a big improvement cus prevents movement towards cab window. Easy too

 

Best method I think is bolting the camper through the bed if you can. Check the bolts every occasionally (you get an idea the more you use it) and good to go.

 

Anybody move their X1 from one taco to another?
How'd ya do it, backyard style?
edit - friends/neighbours have more experience than muscle at this point.

 

@BobWithOneO I installed it after the shell was one. Pretty simple and it's secure. Like @XPOTRPR said, these are on pretty damn solid. I just did it for a piece of mind. I really like what he did, but... mine was already on.

 

@econwatch I've taken mine off twice. Getting off is no problem. Get 5 buddies, beer, 2 saw horses, 2 8 ft 2x4s, unclamp the X1, lift it off, and put it on the saw horses. Putting back on it much different and requires the use of a boom crane, gantry, or some other vertical lift and bridle (two 5 ft and two 6 ft lengths) o be able to lower it straight down. You'll need to change out the bulb seal. IMPORTANT, the bulb seal needs to be installed towards the outer edge of the X1. when you pull the X1 off look how the bulb seal is installed on the bottom. I F'd my first time and is why I had to take it off and redo. Even the 2nd time, it's not how I want it to be. You can ask the fellas at SP for advice. They helped me. I have photos somewhere in this thread.

 

what sort of blanket/bag setup is everyone using that can stay up top and allow for the wedge to easily close?

read previous comments re: the teton fahrenheit mammoth queen being a bit too big to keep up top, despite its comfort

(good for sub freezing nights 25-30)

 

We had to ditch our 0 deg Teton.. unfortunately.. for a full I believe, bed set with warm materials.

 

Sheets, blanket, comforter.

 

Saw this on the "tubes". Posted a couple days ago, item not on the website yet. Shows a storage attic they have now, otherwise all same info. known. May have to do a trial and error in what works to leave up there with bedding or use it only when open...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nhmRjkxY8lI

 

That "attic" storage thing just looks like something that if filled with your crap, would be another thing along with bedding, that would make it hard to close.

 

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone. This thread was a huge resource for me while purchasing the X1…been for my F-150

Just some things that I learned while I was there.

1. Tent fabricate cutting is now brought in house. Not sure how long ago this happened, but they bought a machine to cut the fabric since it seemed to be a bottle neck. They now have better control of their material cutting and quality.

2. These next 2 things I think I read on here before in one of the hundreds of pages, but I’ll repeat in case it’s not. The mesh screen has been updated to a smaller screen since they got some complaints that the screen doors were not fine enough to block some bugs.

3. The vent system was updated to having a buckle clip. So now you just buckle it together and tighten the strap to pop the vent open. When time to close the vent, you just unbuckle.

4. The moveable part of the floor has a 45 degree cut where it meets the non-moveable part. This is to help make it easier to push the floor out of the way, but you do have to be more careful not to push on it while getting in.

5. They are working on an inner insulation system as well as an outer insulation system.

In the short time I’ve had it, I love the thing but need to do a full test off road and while camping. I also added 2 windows installed by Wanderlust for extra ventilation while button up.

 

This may help if it works. What they sent me since I had it shipped and getting a different shop to install.
There were pics but they didn't transfer. Videos should cover.

Hi Cody,

Here are the rough installation instructions. This is general, please connect us with the installers and we can discuss any questions they may have.

Here’s some videos & photos to help walk you through the installation.


When we install the camper we use an A-Frame & hoist and we attach straps attached to the 4 corner lash points of the camper. The lash points serve as a great hard point for supporting the camper while you’re installing it.






Applying the bulb seal

1. Apply the bulb seal:
   1. With the camper suspended you will apply the bulb seal to the underside of the camper. Before applying the seal, wipe down the underside of the camper with alcohol to ensure good adhesion. Start applying the bulb seal at 1 of the rear corners, leaving an extra 3-4 inches of bulb seal that will later be trimmed off. Remove the backing as you work around the underside of the camper, keeping the bulb seal taught as you apply it. The bulb seal should align to the outside edge of the camper.
   2. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OF-my-m1JpcisSXxXQGCsCwZJ6eilS31/view?usp=sharing
2. Trim Bulb Seal Corners:
   1. When applying the bulb seal at the cabside corners we trim out a 45 degree angle using scissors. This helps to prevent the seal from bunching in the corners.
   2. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nwUUeC8eBIFWwk3mboUhxu05FyLzAuhb/view?usp=sharing
3. Finish Applying Bulb Seal & Trim:
   1. Trim the corner for the 2ndside as well. As you complete the bulb seal around the entire perimeter of the camper, be sure to leave another 3-4 inches extra bulb seal at either end. You will wrap this extra around the corner of the camper, then trim any extra seal to match the interior edge of the camper.
   2. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kWHUOu0OjZbSvEnW20pQqjibRm5IsP3z/view?usp=sharing

Fill the Cabside Gap:

1. To fill the gap in the bedrail behind the cabside we layer 1” x .25” weather stripping sealant. It may take 3-4 layers of weather stripping to build up and fill the gap.
   1. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wJNGX8wMZh90uWs8Fc68clJOc9tF23LD/view?usp=sharing

Positioning the camper:

1. You can lower the camper down starting at the rear edge then dropping the front edge down, checking for general alignment as you go. Once you’re happy with the general placement, the camper can be nudged into place to fine tune the positioning on the truck rails. Use the overhanging flanges on the interior sides of the camper to center the camper laterally on the bed rails. Use the flange located at the interior cabside of the camper to determine how far forward to position it.

Mounting the camper:

1. Once you’re happy with the placement of the camper you can use the provided mounting brackets to mount directly to your truck’s c-channel. For the 6’ bed there will be 6 brackets total, 3 on each side.
   1. Before mounting the hardware apply Anti-Sieze compound to the threads, to prevent the stainless steel hardware from seizing up.

1. 1. Place the Upper bracket hanger in the slots on the lower rail of the camper. Slide the lower hanger nut into the c-channel of the truck. Repeat for the remaining brackets. Tighten down the bolts on each of the brackets.

Install the tailgate flange and trim the bulb seal:

1. Install the tailgate flange with the included M6 hardware. Open and close the rear door to check the interface of the flange with the tailgate. Adjust the height of the flange with the slots and tighten the screws down when you’re happy with the fit.
2. Trim any tail ends of bedrail bulbseal if you haven’t already.

1. Trim the ends of the rear door bulb seal to match the tailgate flange.

That should cover the major points of getting your camper installed, but let us know If you have any questions as you work through the process.

 

Nice window addition! Does it have a screen?

 

yes it does and it can be removed

 

so just generic bedding? or any preferred cold-weather specific set?