Frankenstein Build: Stock -> 37's on IFS -> SAS

That's exactly what I did. I guess I'm better at this then I thought
jk jk

 

Taking note of that for when I install my new rear housing

 

Alright build update:

Got the rear axle set where I like it!


My settings for the rear are as follows:
-Chevy 63 springs
-6" Long 5/8" Offset Shackles
-OEM Rear shackle mount
-Moved the front hangers forward ~6.75" (might bump that up to ~7.5")
-U bolt eliminators

Shackles angles are a little steep but I think that having the axle pushed back will help clear the 40's and the shackle angle will allow for a squishier flexier ride. Worst case I move the front hangers forward another inch.
Full droop (leveled to the frame):


Vehicle weight (with Roof Tent, also leveled to the frame):


I'll need to see how they look after I throw some camping gear in the bed and go on a trip but I think they should still have plenty of flex left in them.


Pinion angle looks good too! I set the drive shaft in it and held it up to the axle slowly adjusting the axle angle until I got the angles I liked.




I set the pinion ~1.5* lower then the drive shaft to account for axle wrap when accelerating.

Finally I got the last of my outside frame plating installed. I have plates for the insides but I won't put those in until I confirm the drive shaft is going to clear.

 

Picked up an outboard shock relocation kit from Freel Good this morning! Should allow me to slap a 12" shock in the rear without any modifications but I'm gonna see what I can do to get a 14 incher in it.

 

Get some 12" short body bilstein 7100, they have the same travel as a 14" shock

 

I did some measuring today and it looks like I'll be able to put in a 14"+ shock without losing much uptravel.

 

Why reach for a 14”? 95% of crawler setups aren’t/won’t cycle 14”. I’d rather have good uptravel with 12’s personally

 

No reason except the front and rear will have the same size shocks. It seems like I'll be running a 12" based on what I'm hearing/reading.

 

I’d be even more surprised if you could get 14’s to cycle clean from lock to lock in front. It’s not impossible but isn’t very easy with limits on steering joint angle.

 

I ended up moving the front leaf spring holder forward 3/4" to now be 7.5" from the OEM one. My shackle angles are much better, 64* at ride height, 89* at full droop.




Final pinion angle at ride height looks good too. It's at 17.3* and the driveshaft is at 18.4*


I also had my buddy @tkoffroad come over and finish up my frame plating for me. I'd say it came out crazy good!




He also welded in my u bolt eliminator while he waited for sections of the frame to cool down.


All in all I'm super happy with the rear so far! Just a few more things and it'll be all wrapped up.

 

You'll probably have to nip off the end of those front hangers, they're designed to be frenched into the frame and if you opt to not do that the leaf touches and starts to bend there on full compression

Can see how close it gets


I even clearanced the frame a bit for em when I set them into it and rotated them back just slightly

 

Oh wow good to know! I guess I'll see how they behave when I start driving it.

 

Rear is basically done! Got my Freel Good OSR kit tacked in and cycled the suspension. Overall pretty happy with it! I was able to put a 14" shock in it without any issue and I use about 95% of the travel before bumps and straps.






I also removed my fuel tank in preparation for frame boxing. I forgot I still have ~16gal in it and man was it a pain to remove!!

 

Picked up the 40's today:




I'm so stoked!

 

Got the lower links finished! Total length is 41.5"+- 1.5". I built them out of 2" 1/4" Wall DOM tubing. Tube length is 35". I was shooting for 44"+- 1.5" but ended up at 41.5"+- 1.5" because in my tired state I didn't account for the bung sitting in the tube. I guess that's what I get for making them at 3AM. Regardless, I think they will work fine. Both @malburg114 and @Yota X have link lengths within this range and they seem to be working just fine! The plan is to get the front axle tacked in this weekend so I can check flex, clearance, coil-over location, and steering box location.







I also sent out motor mount templates for laser cutting. I should have those on Tuesday. Once the motor is in I can start with the oil pan swap and coil over mounts. This thing is finally making progress!!

 

I would make sure more than half the threads are well within the bung.

 

Oh yeah they are! This picture was right after I welded them, I hadn't threaded them all the way in yet. They were about 45.5" long in this picture.

 

You welded the links before cycling everything or even having the front axle under it? Brave guy. I didn’t weld anything till I was done and happy with everything. Saved me a ton of time and hundreds of dollars in scrapped material. I also used pvc with the heims hose clamped in the ends to find my link and steering length and start cycling stuff as dom is pretty expensive

 

I asked @malburg114 what his were when I first started cause he had a custom setup as well and I believe he said 41 or 42. I just made mine the same within an inch. Went off the 3 link calculator a little bit. I think mine are 42.5 if I remember correctly. The 1.25 heims have so much thread though even to get to half like @02hilux said.

Just a heads up btw. When you are setting up the links you usually have all the bolts like barely on and moving shit around. I flexed mine a little a few weeks ago and forgot my pitman arm was barely on and prob caused a future leak cause it put mad stress on the steering gear shaft. Don't be like me.

Also, smart on the frame. It may be a little more work to get the 45 angles good but better than cutting and dealing with the gear plate after. I think every one of us get our ass beat on the gear mount. Curious to see how much easier it is like that. Rear shock mounts look real nice too!

 

The axle is under it but nothing is set in stone. I just did the lowers because they seemed pretty standard in length across multiple builds. For the pan hard, upper, and steering linkages I'll be using PVC, I have a pile of it ready to go.