4wd System Operation & Help Thread

So is there any chance that the black cover of the Actuator where the contacts are for the TL1-3 and Ground is where I’ll find my problem/possible corrosion?

I’m watching the YouTube video on how to take it off and am wondering if it’s possible to check that without taking the whole actuator off just yet. I see it’s only 3 10mm which is an easy pop off, take a look and if I don’t see anything I put back on til next time I work on the truck next and can test the actuator motor and look at the rest.


Thank you for all your help dude. Truly saved me a lot of swear words and migraines. Now I can focus all my hate and discontent on just this actuator.

 

There is a very good chance.

That’s what I would do.

No problem.
I don’t mind helping.

It is kind of my way of saying thanks to @Dm93 @6 gearT444E @muddin’ fun and @Jimmyh
Those guys taught me everything I know about automotive wiring and reading diagrams.

I didn’t know anything until I joined TW and those guys helped me.
Scary huh?

 

Yellow Playdoh

 

I see what looks like green goo. That’s usually not a good sign.
Try cleaning the traces off.
You can use dielectric grease in-place of the yellow when going back together.
For testing, you don’t really needed it. - Longer term. You do.

Wipe the yellow grease off. Inspect the traces.
You are looking for issues with the TL1 and GND traces.

You also need to look at the little fingers on the gear.
Those fingers are what make contact with the traces.
Those little fingers “connect” TL1 and GND when in 2WD.


Little fingers

 

With the cap off, now would be a convenient time to test the motor

 

Yeah I saw the greenish plague in there and seent that it was corrosion in another post on here. Gonna get in there nice and deep like and see what we’re working with. Is there a better way of cleaning this all out?

Running to store to get some dielectric grease now.

Took a pic of the fingers on the gear but my phone made the resolution look like I took it with a potato.

 

Can I test it mounted up to transfer case?

 

You could, but it wouldn’t be as easy.
I don’t think your timing should be off.
Not unless a gear was jumping teeth.

I have some ideas on how to check it.
But let’s see what cleaning it does first.

 

Side note: I did look at Willthethrill’s post about manually spinning that brown gear with the fingers on counterclockwise and it should be in 2H. So I tried rotating it by hand and I couldn’t move it so I figure it is all the way in 2H?

 

Hey guys srry I've been busy all day, haven't had time to respond but looks like @TnShooter has gotten you squared away.

As long as you don't pull that gear out you won't lose your timing, if you do take it out mark the way it was and reinstall it back the same way or you will have to be re-timing it manually.

 

I’m going to go with the data here. And say your truck is in 2WD.
The fact that the rod behind the gear physically contacts the position switch, and your data says the same. I feel comfortable saying you are in 2WD.

 

Let’s get this fucker cleaned and throw it back on and see if we can turn the Christmas lights off for good.

 

If it’s not too late.
Show us pics of it cleaned up.
(No grease)

If you’ve already done it. No big deal

 

Side Mission: Fiancé wants to get a Christmas tree right quick.

Will post clean pics when I can lol l

 

Keep the woman happy.
Life is easier.

Us boys will wait

 

Thanks again for the help @TnShooter

just getting some time away from the wife and kids to continue. Can you confirm that the connector to unplug is at the transfer case? Then check the voltage at the ECU?

 

You already checked the voltage at the ECU.
It was 1.1v

By unplugging the connector at the Transfer Case and checking TL1.
We are confirming where the short is.
If you unplug the connector and check pin #5 (TL1 # Blue/Yellow wire) and it reads 12v
The wiring is good to the Actuator.

If you have the same 1.1v then the wiring between the ECU and actuator is shorted.

Actuator harness

 

Yes unplug the transfer case actuator and verify your voltage on TL1 goes to 12v, if it doesn't then the wire is shorted somewhere, if it does then the problem is likely in the Transfer Case Actuator.

 

11.47V in 4H @ pin #5 (TL1 # Blue/Yellow wire)

Is the next logical thing to open the plastic case and look for corrosion / clean?

Grateful!

 

Correct but don't pull the gear out or if you do mark it so you don't need to re-time it.