Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

99-04 super duties on leafs here with 37s

 

The gear drive cases do get hot. I'm running a TG adapter w/ MC 4.7 gears and the stock VF1 chain case in the back. Does get toasty in the summer on the highway.
If it blows up, might switch to the NWF with hopes they've figured a way to get lower gearing in the front case.

I don't think you'll have issue with the NWF setup for your application. If you're doing driver drop, I'd just run the stock case and send it with the NWF up front. Should be strong enough for 37's and what you're looking to do. Only people I've been seeing breaking toyo gear cases are on 40's and rock buggies & whatnot

 

Does your setup get hot while crawling as well? My duals get a little warm lol

Half expecting them to blow up someday hahaha

 

A little bit but nothing crazy when crawling, but most of the heat from hwy is cause I have unsealed holes in my floor so when I have the windows down the air routes up through the cab rather than through the trans tunnel.

Same. Every oil change there's some amount of glitter in it which is sorta par for the course with these setups I've surmised.

 

X200000 on this, Toyota crawlboxes use to be cheap, now getting a TG adapter for a 3.4/4.0 plus adapter for the gear driven tcases, plus gears and mounts, skids, etc. Your now at Atlas territory.

 

All in I spent just over $2500 or so on my setup. If you're resourceful and take advantage of sales and hand-me-down parts, etc, you can build a doubler setup for not too much. Although if you need pass drop, that might be different with the need to additionally source a new rear case.

 

I’ve gotta swap to passenger drop to prevent having to chop up the fj80 axles or go to a fabbed housing, hence the RF1 gear case.

Between the NWF, and building a gear drive case with 4.7’s, 23 spline, and a chromo output I’ll be like $3k. I figure that should be good strength wise for what I’m doing with a 3rd gen runner and 37’s, and gives me 2.28:1, 4.7:1, and whatever those together ends up.

I’ll boot it and insulate the floor to keep the heat out. As long as the heat isn’t a concern as far as health of the tcase then I can deal with keeping it out of the cab.

 

What’s an atlas 2 end up running cost wise? And what kind of gearing are we talking? I know fuck all about atlas cases.

Learning 90% of this as I go based on whatever research I can do and information I can absorb in the short time I’m allowing myself before making purchases.

 

FWIW I’m picking up some fj80 axles next week. Found a set for $1k in state. So I’m set on that route now, we can nix the “just go tons” discussion.

I’ll make note of where this post is so that in 1-3 years when I’m pissed I went this route we can bring it up and all have a good laugh about how I refuse to listen to everyone.

 

Gotcha. Well you should still be able to source a whole setup for relatively inexpensively I'd think.
Ya should be fine on strength with that setup. Heat wise, it's not that bad and I've been running mine for plenty long and had no issues because of heat. Helps to have extended breathers too in case things do want to puke out.

I'm not sure on atlas's either. But fwir they're like 4-5k??

 

Pissed? I doubt it. I'm running toyota custom housing front and rear with no regret. There's pro and con for 1t. For what I use it for, 1t is not the best option. If it's a dedicated, trailer rig, now that's different. 609 or rockjock if that's the case with ls7 supercharger, 4 link front and rear, full hydro steering and all

 

I just built a 2 speed for $3500 and change plus adapter at $450. So $4k plus a 20 week lead time. I think 4 speeds are about $1k-$1500 more than a 2 speed.

 

The debate between toyota or 1t axles will never end. I get it, 1t is sturdy with 35s bla bla bla vs the weaker toyota 30s.

THEY ALL BREAK! Regardless if it's at the axle, tcase, engine, or whatever. I know this guy with with 1t blowing 2 - 3.4 motor and 1 transmission, another guy blew his atlas with 1t. Same for the Toyota guys blowing birf or ring and pinion. NOTHING IS BOMB PROOF.

If you want to bounce and go full send, go 1t. Plenty of local guys here running toyota axles with 37 or 40. My other built with d44 and mini toyota axles, I had no issue being in the same approach line as guys with 1t. TBH, I hung up less than their 1t housing.

 

Rather just build Toyota cases then.

 

Fair point. That’s a lot of why I went with fj axles over tons.

 

What’s your frame height and up/down travel looking like so far?

 

I only have 37s on the front so far but frame height reads 22”. Honestly, no idea on travel numbers. It has room for probably 4” of up and whatever of down.

 

I was faced with the same dilemma (fj80 front on a 3rd gen 4runner), went Nwfab to 3vz chain case for passenger drop. With triple shifter kit I’m in it $2500. No 4.7s, but I’ve got an auto.

 

I’m auto as well. I could do with dual 2.28’s. Was only going to spend the money on 4.7’s because I’d have to have the 23spline input. Glad you said something, I’ll look into that 3vz case

 

Check out my slow ass build thread for more info. I’ve picked up two cases now for $50 each, they’re surprisingly cheap.