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Anyone have a Generac generator? The thing refuses to start with a pull cord. Taking the battery in to have it tested tonight before I charge it. It has been sitting for awhile and I am assuming that the battery is at least flat right now and maybe not any good any longer. Looking for any been there, done that tricks, hints or recommendations.

 

This does great, Cole and I did the trailer the other day and took a flashlight out that night and checked it. I was impressed, especially with the price. Quality seems good

 

Is there an on/off switch? Only reason i ask is i had a regular generator, couldnt get it to start...start switch was OFF turn it on and it started up 2nd pull

 

I've got an 11 y.o. 7500w. When the battery would no longer hold a charge i didn't bother replacing it and have pull started it since. Except that one time I forgot to hit that start/run rocker switch on the side panel. Hey, it happens...check the switch

Diagnose from the easiest. How long has it sat? Drain and refill gas?

 

Inverters:
You need to run the engine fast enough for the alternator to keep up with the load, otherwise you would be pulling out of the battery (until it goes dead that is). That said modern charging systems produce more at an idle that the old ones did.

With no added load, throttle the engine up to about 1400 rpm and read the battery voltage with an electricians multi-meter or your instrument panel gauge if equipped. It should read somewhere around 13.8 - 14.3 volts, this is what the charging system operates at normally.

Now turn on your inverter and attach your load to it (freezer, etc.) and throttle the engine up to achieve the same voltage reading you had with no added load, I would suspect it won't be too far off an idle speed. Keep in mind that the alternator will be working hard which makes heat, the alternator cooling fan turns faster at higher rpm. After running a while you may want to (safely) check the alternator case to insure it isn't unusually hot, it so bump up the rpm a bit more.

For a long run it is also a good idea to vary the engine speed occasionally during the run. When stationary at a constant speed the oil in the engine will be spraying or splashing in the same location, if you raise the rpm up a few hundred for 15-30 seconds every 1/2 hour you will insure that everything gets good lubrication, then return to your target speed.

Also, be mindful of capacity of the inverter, motor starts require more power than running, about 3X the running demand. This is the surge rating listed in the inverter specifications. Start the largest load first (motors) then add the smaller ones like lights and battery chargers.

 

I don't believe the inverters can be used this way. Using just the hot (and not the neutral) of the inverters might:
1) confuse the microprocessor that controls it causing no output
or
2) fry the mp - which would also cause no output - in a more permanent way

If anyone wants to try it let us know how it works out.

 

That’s very helpful and easy to follow. Hopefully all will go smoothly and worst case the generator gets us through any outage we may have, but good to know we have a backup option.

 

Just because the inverter has two receptacles doesn't indicate it is capable of 240 volt output. Some have two 120 volt circuits with independent protection but they are sharing a neutral so 240 volts isn't available.

 

2 to 3 times the nameplate full load is the rule of thumb for starting inrush of a single phase motor.

A 1 hp motor is usually rated around 8 amps full load at 240 volts.

8 amps x 240 volts = 1920 watts
1920 x 2 = 3840 watts
1920 x 3 = 5760 watts

To start the pump you need a surge capacity around 6000 watts.

 

I think I did say I wasn’t an electrician…

I figure if you run the hot side of each outlet to the 220 outlet and tied the neutral lines together. It’d feed the 220v outlet without the inverter knowing the difference of what it’s powering. But it might be worth some experimentation to find out.


Or it could just need two separate inverters with at least half the required power to feed one 220v outlet.

 

I'm trying to remember what the reason for going down this avenue was.

Was it just to run the well pump?

I think I'd just fill the tub and sinks with water and whatever containers you have handy.

 

The photo below shows how 240 volts is provided either by the utility or a generator.
L1 to neutral and L2 to neutral each provide 120 volts.
L1 to L2 provides 240 volts as used in devices like water heaters or larger motors for example. In both uses the neutral line is also grounded.





Below is a waveform as would be seen on a dual trace oscilloscope, L1 is in red, L2 in black and the neutral/ground is the 0 volt center line.



The problem with the single inverter with two receptacles is the inverter is only making 120 volts (only L1 or L2 not both) and giving you two places to plug it like the photo below.
The same 120 volts (L1 or L2 to neutral) is available from the source (inverter) at both receptacles.



The issue with using two inverters (aside from damaging them) is there would be no hardware to make them produce the synchronized waveform needed.

 

Yeah it’s more of just a convenience really. We live higher than the water tower, so we have to pump up to a small tank. I could run down the hill like Jack and Jill and fetch some pails of water, but who wants to do that

 

Really depends on what Jill looks like...

 

Early Christmas…now to learn how to operate and maintain

 

Somebody been good this year

 

Thanks for the replies!

Yes, I have been guilty in the past of pulling and pulling and then swearing and swearing when the rocker switch was not in the run position. The switch is a three way with OFF, RUN, and START, with the start being a momentary switch. The switch was definitely in the run position. It has sat for awhile as it was at my parents house unused since my mom moved out. My Dad when he was alive never had good luck starting it, even with an electric starter, according to my Mom. The neighbor seemed to have the magic touch and could come over and get it started. I probably should call him. He is 1.5 hours away so he is not coming over to start it but maybe he knows a trick or two. I am sure the gas could stand to be freshened up but the behavior with new gas or old gas seems to be the same. I did take the battery off and had it tested yesterday. It did not have enough charge to power the tester. I charged it for 4 hours yesterday then tried it again and got....nothing. Taking it back to see if it has enough charge to be tested but plan on replacing the battery. Probably old enough anyways that it should be done. And I just learned that there is a charging plug in for the battery on the generator so you can charge the battery easily. But in moving the last couple months I did not know this and have no idea if the charging cord was kept or thrown out.

 

The power grid attack we had here in NC made me think I should be better prepared. Especially now that we have little kids. Many have always known how fragile the grid is, but now everybody else does too. I wired it to my panel with a 30 amp inlet and interlock kit.

 

I got 1 Generac XP8000 set up to run most of house when needed, with transfer switch.
1. check gas turn on gas let carb fill ( i know you have that common sense).
2. flick on toggle switch
3. pull out choke
4. pull starter cord
Should run withou battery it's just a convenience to easy start.
My recommendation for battery get the generac brand I have gotten other ones and they have not lasted, not sure what the differance is but....
I also use a Battery tender to keep battery maintained. Just got mine ready last month with full tank (9 gals.), and another 15 gals. in work shop for backup. That should get me a few days if needed.

 

ALL of us have done the pull the rope with the switch off trick -- kind of a rite of passage I think.

First get back to the basics: Get out the manual and make sure it has the correct spark plug including brand if listed, often times the wrong plug gets substituted and then people keep replacing it with the same. Get a new one, don't fall for the parts store guy saying "this will work", get exactly what the manual calls for.

Try a short spritz of carburetor cleaner down the intake and pull the rope, if the engine immediately runs for a second or two you can assume it is reasonable mechanically sound and the ignition system is good. NOTE: Don't use starting fluid, it is very hard on small engines.

While you have the air cleaner off operate the choke and verify that it fully closes and opens.

Do you have straight 30 grade oil in the crankcase by chance? It will be very difficult to get starting rpm in cold weather if so. Your manual probably calls out 10W-30 or even 5W-30 for cold weather operation. Check the level frequently especially if using 5W-30.

If it takes a standard mower battery don't even bother testing it, just replace, they don't last long in occasional service.
The best way to extend the life of (any) battery that isn't used daily is a quality battery maintainer like the NOCO Genius 1, at only around $30 these quickly pay for themselves.

https://no.co/genius1