Long Travel BS Thread

I found that 53" spread made the spring alittle less wavy at bump.
Mine at full bump is approx here:

 

Right on thanks for the pic. looks like my bump position isn't too far off from yours so I must be doing something right

 

A little bit of inversion at full bump isn't gunna really hurt anything in my opinion. It's when they are constantly being inverted that they wear out prematurely.

 

Not too bad. Worked out in the end so that’s good at least.


Edit: I’m still going to copy the original kit and get some gussets made for the frame piece. I checked and sendcutsend does mild steel stuff too. Going to draw them up tomorrow.

 

Dirt king told me to weld the spring perches at 2.5 degrees steeper than the OEM perches. kind of hard to do when i had already cut the OEM perches off.

I ended up doing what you did and bolt everything up, tacking perches and cycling suspension up and down. Realized my pinion angle was a little off so rotated the perches to fix the pinion angle and cycled again. I got luckily and it ended up working out.

 

Your bump height seems good. I had the same question when setting up my rear end. The leaves should compress more than you have pictured. The top of my diff comes up within a fraction of an inch of the top of the frame rails. If you are going to run hydraulic bumps then the bumps + strike plate will take up a little bit of that space. If you are worried, you could set up bump height to be lower but maybe wait to see if anyone else chimes in. I notched my frame 2" and mounted my 2.0 x 2.0 bump stops even higher than what you have pictured(unless you plan to notch the frame). Your rear hangers are obviously a little different than mine but not much. I did a shackle flip too.

 

Why did you cut off the factory perches?

 

the oe perches are soa and no longer needed so most folks chop them off to clean up the housing

 

So just for looks.

 

well that and weight and gas mileage

 

The strike plate for the bump stop needed to go where the factory perch was located.

 

Posted some updates on Cory's build page.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-dirt-yota-lt-build.396918/

 

Rad /\

Here’s my little street mobber side project I just got running again

 

Clean work as usual Fabian

 

Thanks homie!
Cory's gotta be so pumped
Gen 1 kits looking rad, haven't checked your site in a lil

 

We both are lol

Thanks man, if you ever need any laser cut parts hit me up

 

Anyone here running a Solo LT kit with stock spindles, that have spindle gussets?

The UCA slug that goes in to the top of the spindle... I'm pretty sure I know the answer here, but wondering if others have done that without grinding the crap out of it to get it in there.

... Nevermind... I know the answer to the question.




I just had to grind the corner of the slug off, to get it to line up with the hole.

 

Starting to look into a new year end after dusting a couple. I am not set on ditching the speed sensors but if you were to compare going semi float to full float and ditching them would you go that route? I already have Stoptech BBK i the rear which I can transfer to the SEMI but not to the Full Float but the strength benefits and being able to pull the broke shit to get home are nice perks of a full float setup.

 

Do you want to keep the speed sensors for abs functionality or do you just want to retain a Speedometer?

edit: personally I would go FF for the reasons you mentioned.