Strange (very) Cold Starting Issue

Having some polar vortex issues here in MN, it's currently -9F and my '07 with the 2.7L is not wanting to start. I'd noticed as it got colder it was starting slower, so I charged the battery, which worked when the temp was in the 20s. Next time I went to start it, it would not even turn over. I saw the date stamp on my battery was Feb of 2018, so I figured that was the problem and replaced it with a new battery. Plugged it in for an hour (heats the coolant, heat pad on the oil pan), installed the new battery it and turned the key - nothing. Had power in the truck - fan going, radio, lights, etc. Turned two more times, nothing, then it started on the 4th try. I let it run for a few minutes and shut it off, to see if having the engine a bit warmer would make it start easier, but I could not get it to restart. This time it cycled between doing nothing when I turned the key and cranking but not starting.

Just went out today and it has power, but will not even turn over. I plugged it in and will try again in an hour or so once it warms up.

I've tried with clutch in and out, and with using the clutch start cancel, no difference.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

We should be able to diagnose this, but you will need a voltage meter. Or a test light.
Do you have either one available?

 

Just gonna spitball some ideas. My similar experience comes from a well used 22R-E.

If the starter (potentially 15 years old) has some water, grime, or gunk it in from a wheeling trip, it may be freezing, or at least the grease inside thickening. If you can point a heat source at the starter you could test the freezing starter theory as well. Heat gun, radiant heat dish, hair dryer etc.

Maybe some grit preventing the solenoid from fully travelling. prior to replacing the starter, perhaps have a buddy aide in the old hammer test. Tapping the starter while cranking can promote the solenoid to fully travel.

A visual check on the power lead to the starter may yield some results as well. A corroded power lead / ground wire may not have significant impact during not winter, but being subzero may be too much to overcome.

 

Sound like you're having 2 issues. No crank. Crank but no start.

No crank, on mine I had a failed clutch pedal switch. Rather than replace the switch, I bypassed the relay with a jumper wire. So no more stomp to start, I ain't got the fancy schmancy clutch bypass button. Problem solved, so I thought. Second problem was worn starter solenoid contacts. After fixing that it cranks every time instead of most of the time.

 

Sorry for my lack of replies as the OP. I plugged it in yesterday for 2 hours and it did start on the 3rd try. Honestly my motivation to work on it right now is very low given the -10 temps and 20+ mph winds and two functioning vehicles in our garage. Next move is to get it into my garage. Supposed to warm up Sunday / Monday to tolerable temps.

TnShooter - I have a voltmeter, what do you recommend as my next step?

 

Is current battery a brand new fully charged battery? If so, check that all power connections are solid and corrosion free. When it starts, confirm that voltage is at least 13+ volts at idle, and increases as you increase rpm’s. Ideally, you want to see 13.5-14 volts at idle, but the cold will reduce the voltage output.

 

The diagnosis process would different for each problem you stayed.
In post #1 you said it would some times not do ANYTHING.
And other times it will crank but not start.

I’d probably work on the not doing anything first.
When this happens, I’d first check the batter voltage. Then again when cranking (or trying to crank).
If battery voltage is good, I’d move to the stater and check for starter signal and GOOD power from the battery. You could do it with a volt meter, but a test light would help prove the wiring is in good shape.
(Or do a voltage drop test at the starter)

If this is something you feel comfortable doing, I can try to pull up some diagrams and walk you through it.

 

I’ve seen on many occasions the battery terminals and posts look ok but when you remove the terminals the posts are black with oxidation. Check if you have this problem, use a battery brush if you do. This could possibly solve all problems.

A starter voltage drop test at the battery and starter gives you a good picture of the battery state of health and battery cables.

This makes me think maybe your battery terminals could possibly be loose on the posts. Touching the terminals with the charger clamps causes them to move ever so slightly and regain contact. I wouldn’t recommend this but I’ve seen people hammer a penny into a C shape and shove it between the terminal and post to make it tight. Fix it correctly, sometimes sticking a m6 washer under the nut on the terminal will do, or replace the terminal.

Then if you don’t have an issue with the clutch pedal switch or bypass and the starter signal wire is getting good power it should crank.

 

Ok got it solved. I removed the starter (thanks youtube) and took it to a starter repair shop. They disassembled and cleaned the solenoid, works great now. Starts in the current very cold weather. $48 to repair. Find yourself a good starter/alternator repair shop!

 

Could have cleaned it yourself and had $48 in your pocket....