Crashnburn80's Tesla Model 3 Performance Longer Range Build

I'm really unsure. If I can reuse the 2 circuits I don't think I need, then I wouldn't imagine much, that would give me 40A to charge at 32A which is a lot better than my 20A charing at 16A. If I could add one more breaker on top of that, that would be great.

I noticed mine beeps and flashes when using the auto close feature, but if closing it manually via the car touch screen it does not.

 

I've had this error occur twice now where the car fails to operate the garage door, going into settings it says the car cannot connect to myQ, but using the phone myQ works fine though took longer than usual to connect. I suspect the Tesla's connection just times out and doesn't retry, unlike the phone app that either retries or has a longer time out. This photo was a couple days ago.

This morning it was 17 degrees so I try to keep my mildly heated garage open for as short as possible. I pull out and drive away and the garage door doesn't close. Back up, see there is an error, try reconnecting, still reports the error and won't close. Pull out the phone to close the door. Annoyed. This is exactly why I prefer the direct point to point communication of HomeLink rather than the internet based functionality of myQ. Don't get me wrong, I really like myQ for the open anywhere and phone functionality and specifically bought my openers for that feature, but I'd prefer the vehicle use the direct communication of HomeLink.

 

Love my '22 M3LR.
The Homelink is a must for me. I live in a gated community so the auto open on both the gate and my garage is awesome.
I charge using the mobile connector on a NEMA 16-50 that I installed a few years back for my welder. I did have a problem with the crappy Leviton receptacle basically melting so I replaced it with a Hubble and it's been rock solid ever since.

 

We had a freezing rain ice storm. The hill out of my neighborhood was a clean sheet of ice you couldn’t even stand on. The car climbed out surprisingly well, giving the traction control system a significant workout, with the traction control icon in constant illumination on the screen.

Its interesting to think about how the dual motor car has advantages over traditional ICE AWD systems. There is no center diff connecting the front and rear drive systems that allows slippage to propagate across the system. Instead the front and rear drive systems are managed separately. Rivian’s 4 motor system has impressive potential in this regard.

 

how does the traction control / AWD-ness work in the dual motor Teslas? Is it like being in 4x4 where both front and rear axles have power or is it like a minivan's AWD where the secondary axle kicks in when slip is detected?

 

I love myQ but I have had my scheduled events, in this case ensuring my garage door is closed at 10pm, actually OPEN the door at that time.

Thankfully both times I heard the door open and was able to figure out what happened but it was very uncool to have the door opening suddenly

 

50/50 full time power split. No slippage in-between since they are not connected, which is one of the challenges of AWD. But because the front/rear drivetrain is not connected, it is kinda like the advantages of 4wd except you can use it on the street when it is dry. Performance models can also use Track Mode and adjust the power split on the fly.

Actually, the scheduled close was one of my prime motivators for MyQ. Garage is downstairs and faces a park, there where so many times that the doors were left open over night. Fortunately I live in a very safe low crime area. But now I have a redundant schedule programmed for auto-close to ensure the doors are closed at night. It has never opened them on the close schedule.

New theory. My car hasn't beeped and flashed the door lights when leaving the last 2 days. I think if the car is facing the door when it closes, it does the standard close procedure. If the car is turned away from the door when it auto closes, then the lights flash. Still need more testing to confirm.

35 degrees F. Preheated the car when leaving from dinner and came out to the car steaming in the cold.

 

That's good stuff. The 4 motor EV setups must be as good as it can get.

 

Yep, kinda like the ability to run a locker on any one wheel on demand, on the street or in any conditions. The limitations of differentials and LSDs or lockers are completely removed.

 

You need to make sure the two individual circuits trace back to the two different busses in the panel. Otherwise I don't think it will work. Are the two circuits vertically next to each other in the panel? The big risk if they aren't is that you can't use a single pull double throw breaker. So if they are separate and a breaker trips for some reason, it's possible only one breaker pops leaving you with a still live circuit.

 

They are vertically next to each other in the panel. While I’ve done all my own electrical in the past, I’ve not done panel work so I’ll defer to a pro. Currently have job quote requests out to 3 different electricians so TBD on the what is required and the numbers.

 

Go big crash! If you’re going to be in the EV game for good I’d go with a dedicated circuit run to a 60amp breaker. Pulling 48amps continuous is 44 miles/hour on my wife’s model y. I have not found a reason yet to regret going that route.

 

Fwiw a full panel replacement at my place was $2500. That included upgrading the panel to remove a small sub-panel.

A coworker had a circuit installed for his Mach-e and it was $600 (all in-garage, just adding the line)

Obviously each situation is different and costs vary.

 

The fog lights on this car are practically non-existent, they are totally worthless.

Fogs off


Fogs on


I realize the streetlight isn’t helpful in the photo. Fogs should provide a wider area of illumination to help find the edge of the roadway in poor weather. These barely make a noticeable difference.

Agreed a 60A circuit with 48A charge would be ideal. I’ll have to see what the electricians come back with. If 40A is hundreds but 60A is many thousands due to a panel upgrade it becomes cost/benefit analysis. I’m currently using a 20A plug in the garage, so 40A would be a 2x improvement over what I have today. So far in 3 months of ownership 20A has been adequate with all but one exception when I hit up a local supercharger for a few minutes to give me extra buffer. TBD, we’ll see what the quotes come back with.

 

Left the Tesla for 4 days in the garage with Sentry off, garage in the high 40s, car charge at 50%. The car lost 2% charge over 4 days, came back to it at 48%. Not a very long stretch for good granular data, but I wanted to capture the data for reference.

 

For whatever reason Sentry does NOT like to be on in the garage. Even though, theoretically, nothing moves, I've had north of 40 events over a couple of days.

 

Lol. I have sentry turned off on the garage. In the sentry settings you can set locations where sentry does not activate so it is automated based on location.

 

Incredible story of a Tesla plunging off a 250ft rocky cliff in California and all 4 passengers miraculously survive.

Quote from a first responder:
"We go there all the time for cars over the cliff and they never live. This was an absolute miracle [...] Every one of us was shocked when we saw movement out of the front windshield [...] They were more scared than they were hurt."



Appears to be a Model Y Performance in the article photos. One of the advantages to the EV architecture is the structural battery pack in the floor provides incredible strength against cabin intrusion. The battery pack is so dense and rigid that it is virtually not compressible compared to a standard steel stamped floor. If the floor fails, your B-pillar will have nothing for support to prevent cabin intrusion. The Model Y is rated the IIHS top safety pick, scoring the highest crashworthiness safety score possible, and scoring the highest safety score ever achieved in Europes Euro NCAP safety rating tests.

If cars go off the cliff at this location all the time as referenced, it seems like maybe they should put up a guard rail (article mentions there is none).

 

If you've never driven it, you might not know how beautiful it is there:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Devil's_Slide_(California)

A landslide in 1995 actually closed it for an extended period of time:
https://www.hmbreview.com/devils-sl...cle_6c1f55d8-ed0f-5e0f-9b6c-a282e6607924.html

The entire route south on 1 is breathtakingly beautiful and a wonderful way to see it is via bicycle, SF to SD or these days perhaps Seattle to SD (which I haven't yet done). It is definitely dangerous for vehicles not paying attention though.

Much of the area does have guardrails but with rising sea levels and coastal erosion along with a state not overly financially stable, well, it is what it is. I highly suspect user error here.