TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I've changed mine 3 or 4 times in the ~70k I've had it.

 

It's been pretty damn cold out lately. I've contemplated getting a 5 amp battery tender for the truck for when I'm not driving it because this cold has and will cause discharge issues to the batteries.

 

Just catching but bummer to hear mixed fitment on the housing.

 

Is there fling to be any exchange or discount?

 

Best spot for S/C oil/service kit? Just realized I’m almost at 20k on the blower. Prob a good time swap some fluids etc.

 

Another member sent me this kit that looks promising. High quality cables ready to be installed. not sure where a I want to relocate it to though.

https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/ba...plete-electrical-protection-10-awg-and-2-awg/

 

For the first time I upgraded something in my truck and I don't feel 100% convinced I did the right thing! I installed 488 gears

 

Think they will be exchanged.

I just order mine from Amazon/ebay. GM supercharger oil.

ACDelco GM Original Equipment 10-4041 Synthetic Supercharger Oil - 4 oz

$22 ACDelco GM Original Equipment 10-4041 Synthetic Supercharger Oil - 4 oz

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QIR2ZC

 

Whaaaat!!!
Tell me about your setup and what not. Why do you not like them?
I was thinking I need to regear again. I was contemplating 4.56 or 4.88. I do have the 3rd gen manual trans installed though.

 

What kind of discharge issues are you speaking of?

The internal leakage (discharge rate) of the batteries is only reduced by the cold. Though this is often miss-communicated, and presented as the cold causing a dead battery, it really is that the cold reduces the output capacity of the battery (temporarily) While it is cold. Warm it up and its output increases back to normal. You can visualize this by the fact that heat accelerates any chemical reaction. Inversely, the cold temperatures Slow Down the chemical reaction, within the battery; therefore reducing the amps available for output. But this slowing of the chemical reaction is preserving the battery life; as long as you don't require more amps than what are available, during the cold.

Batteries also have an internal leakage, so a battery being stored without anything connected, will slowly go dead. This leakage is also reduced with colder temperatures, and why storing your small batteries in the freezer or refridge, will extend their Storage Lifespan.

While completely over-detailing this battery detail; Also note that when a battery is cold enough, it will not output hardly at all. For a typical Flooded Cell Lead Acid battery, this occurs at about -30f. Though, an AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) Lead Acid Battery at this same temperature still has something like (going from memory so approximation here) 70% of its rated output amps!

AGM Batteries are VERY Impressive, and all I use here in the NE, when i replace a battery. AGM batteries have started my truck in -45f (visiting Canada), and their ability to do so is because the internal resistance is very low (its inherent resistance to how fast the chemical reaction can happen, and is measured by the instantaneous Amps available of output). This means that the output surge of energy available is much greater than with a flooded cell battery, meaning that a smaller AGM battery can crank over a much larger engine, even though it is smaller (at the cost of having less overall reserve, due to being smaller). A small AGM battery out of your ATV, will happily crank your truck, and an AGM battery for your pickup is able to crank over a giant diesel dozer (replacing that suitcase size Flooded Cell Battery that the machine came with). This low internal resistance has an attractive side effect; AGM batteries are Fast Charging! Very fast. Any vehicle with the auto-stop-start (for while at traffic lights), has an AGM battery, so it commonly can charge up between frequent stops. AGM batteries are also extremely better suited for trucks with electric over hydraulic snow plows, as they better feed the surge load of the pump (don't dim the lights and heater fan as much) as well as they quickly recover the charge lost by that pump.

The only downside to an AGM battery that I have experienced, is that they do not like to sit stagnant for months at a time. Like on a trickle charger. This can cause some internal issue where the battery will appear dead, and not accept a charge from an AGM Specific Charger. The solution is often to place it on an old style constant charger for a half hour or so, and then finish the charge with the AGM Specific Charger. If connected to the car, there is always a small load, so prevent this issue entirely in extended storage, by only charging every 6 to 8 weeks, instead of with a trickle.

I could share more, but probably too much already. BTW, I came to understand much detail of AGM batteries, from having built an airplane, and designed much of the electric system, with the battery within the cabin space; needed to understand how to properly tend to the electric and safety needs of the situation.

 

I’m afraid to unhook my battery because my jbl stereo is glitched and the sub actually hits right now but if I disconnect battery it will go back to not working good. I wish I knew exactly how to activate the mode it’s in now lol.

Also I’m about 60k miles on the supercharger with a 2.85 pulley and I have not replaced the oil. I am pretty sure the stock coupler is unhappy though I do hear more rattling than when it was new.

 

This, I HAVE to have a trickle charger plugged into my AGM in the M3 all winter. It doesn't get driven in under 50 degrees weather for the most part

 

No issues with my lithium ion battery.

 

I have a 2nd gen and the correct gear for it
Is 488 but it feels like I lost a lot of power I should had gone with the 456.
On 3rd gen they are doing 529 But this is the one MOD is going to take some time for me 2 get used to it!

 

Great thanks

 

What wheel size? You shouldn’t lose power. I went 4.56 but will go 4.88 when I redo my axle etc soon. if anything it should feel more torque and depending on tires. if you not running 35’s or higher 4.88 may be too low (higher rpm’s not able to go as fast).

4.56 with 2.85’d and a N/A tune was perfect when I did it.

they say auto 4.88 and 4.56 on manual in most discussions.

what makes you feel you lost power?

 

I have 35" on a 2nd gen and the gears are 488. I don't feel pulling as hard RPM's climb up really fast and the truck is not going that fast. But maybe is Me Just to be fear ill give it some time

 

Sounds like what happens when you regear… truck revs faster while going slower.

 

I would think on the upper end..... but i wouldnt the 4.88s make it feel quicker with off the line acceleration. Lower gears =poor man's supercharger.

@vegasstaco are you auto or manual trans?

 

Interesting. the trouble I have had is with loose batteries (snowmobile, atv, watercraft) AGM's, removed form the machines. I wonder if the trickle charger has a threshold cycle, so the phantom loads drain a certain amount off, and then the charger pumps it back up? preventing the problem that I described.

My wife's summer car, also sits all winter, AGM, and I have had great success with only charging it every 6 to 8 weeks. It stays in the car, so I know it is draining the battery a fair amount before I charge it back up.

I believe that it is logical, that a battery may well be stressed more at the extreme top and bottom of it's charge, than if staying away from the extremes (Is logical to me, but I have found little actual proof of this concept.). What is well proven for any lead acid batteries, is that a battery that is NEVER discharged below 1/2 capacity, will outlast (in calendar time and in number of cycles) a battery that experiences total dead or near dead drainage. This is well documented in the Off Grid Solar electric community. Our daily driven cars, with typically only using the top 20 percent of capacity, are actually very kind to a battery in this regard (until we use the stereo for hours in the driveway, and need to Pop-start the car after).

Consistent with this concept; an AGM battery requires a higher voltage to reach full charge. Many on these chats, re-program the alternator voltage, to take full advantage of their AGM batteries. I have not succumbed to that logic. AGM batteries charge very quickly, with the normal approx. 15v, they simply do not top off completely. But unless you need the full capacity of your battery, it might just last longer by never fully charging. It is clearly proven that overcharging shortens the life of a lead acid battery. Though admittedly not proof, I have an AGM battery in my 09 Tacoma for going on 9 years, and have a snow plow on it, and have not altered the charging voltage. last summer, I did let the truck sit for 10-12 weeks, and had to jump it, but only made that mistake once. Battery is still plenty healthy.