08 Tacoma 6-speed clutch advice

I have 198k on my TRD OR MT. Clutch works great, but no records of a clutch done by original owner (I am the second owner). Works fine, grabs fine. I do have the throw out bearing chirp and it has always been there since I owned the vehicle.

I would hate to be on a long trip and deal with a clutch failure.

Should I just do the clutch for peace of mind and the next 200k miles (or even less)?

 

The safe thing to do is replace the clutch and bearing.

Earlier model Toyotas had cover that allowed for the inspection of the clutch. Maybe have a look see if yours has one and look.

 

Congrats on getting to 198k miles on original clutch, not everyone makes it that long. If you want advice, get it done if you haven’t done so already for peace of mind. I just came back from a back country trip where I passed 200k on the odometer with original clutch and spent half the trip worried the clutch would start slipping in the middle of nowhere and 500 miles from home. Did not spoil the trip but did reduce the enjoyment and kept me from doing the more remote trails that I otherwise would have done. PS, truck got me home ok.

A mechanic pointed out to me that a symptom of worn clutch is the clutch pedal will sit higher than brake pedal. Mine now sits at least an inch and a half higher than the brake pedal and recently it at full depression it barely triggers the clutch switch which tells me it is probably time. I’m taking it in Tuesday for replacement. Will post pic of clutch disc afterwards to show the condition of a 200k clutch Also Suggest you have rear oil seal done at same time as long as the flywheel is off for resurfacing.

 

If it aint broke don't fix it

 

I knew i had 170k on the original clutch.
Also, it started slipping a little bit when wet, launching boat... Also, it would always slip when trying to drag anything over 6k lbs

I could not find a way without disassembling anything to visually inspect.

I replaced it with this and it is fking grabby, really really grabby.

AISIN-EFT STAGE 3 CLUTCH KIT+LuK FLYWHEEL FOR 05-15 TACOMA TUNDRA FJ CRUISER 4.0L

$419 AISIN-EFT STAGE 3 CLUTCH KIT+LuK FLYWHEEL FOR 05-15 TACOMA TUNDRA FJ CRUISER 4.0L

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BKZDS1VB

 

My '06 was on the stock clutch when I traded it at almost 260k. My '15 was at 100k when I traded it, the clutch was starting to slip here and there, but it was definitely wheeled/beat on alot more. Go figure.

Oh and heard the bearing on my 06 for years, I'm kind of a don't fix it till it breaks kinda guy though...if you plan a long trip maybe plan to change it before, otherwise I would probably just send it till it tells me to stop

 

There's an old adage that if you have to pay for the work, do it once. Meaning if it takes 5 hours to replace the clutch and say 1/4 hour to replace the main seal, you might as well replace the main seal while you're there. Why? Because if the main seal goes, the labor cost is the same to get to the main seal as it is to get to the clutch. So for the cost of a $20 part, you'd pay another $500 to replace it. Even if you do the work, you'd do it twice--so might as well just replace it at the same time.

Oh. And waiting till failure is rarely a good idea.

 

^^
2x what @ian408 posted

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rear-main-seal-replacement-cost.787449/

 

Personally, I would leave it alone until it started to slip. I would install an Aisin regular clutch kit, none of that stage X junk.

Once I had it open I would install the URD throw out bearing fix
https://urdusa.com/throwout-bearing-upgraderepair-kit-2005-tacoma-v6-6-speed/

 

I never said replace one but not the other, nor did I advocate waiting until failure.

 

What did you mean when you said "Oh and heard the bearing on my 06 for years, I'm kind of a don't fix it till it breaks kinda guy though" then.

I am also explaining why it's a good idea to take care of items that require the same labor later on. To hopefully save someone money later on.

 

clutches dont catastrophic fail do they? you get some slipping first. or the pedal gets super stiff...on my old sports car I got the stiff pedal.

I DIY'd the repair and it was like angels singing everytime I stepped on the clutch.

I think I would wait for some inkling of troubles ahead before I got it done. but when I did, I would absolutely fix everything I could reach at the same repair. rear main seal for sure. all of it.

 

Under normal conditions, you'd have the hints you describe--I'd include smell too. But you can have catastrophic failure. Contaminants (rear main seal failure/clutch slave cylinder) can saturate or damage it, the pressure plate could fail. A poorly installed/adjusted clutch is another cause (you could include air in the fluid too). Bearing failure. Even hard use.

Under normal conditions, you can probably continue to drive for a while but definitely want to stay on top of it so you're not stranded.

 

I just see no reason to replace OPs clutch that is showing no sign of failure. I ran my 06 for about 3 years with a squeaky/whiny throw out before i traded it, but it never really got any worse in those 3 years-ish. Had it started to deteriorate/sound worse I would have done both while we were in there, but never saw the reason to fix it. By no means am I an expert in the subject, but my best friend was a toyota master tech who runs his own shop now, he suggested the same thing. If it starts getting worse fix it, otherwise why spend the money?

I guess I should have elaborated, if the OP is planning a long road trip and wants the piece of mind, by all means replace them. I just personally wouldn't bother until there was a little bit more of a warning/sign of pending failure. OP made it sound like he's had no signs of clutch failure, other than the throw out squealing. Just trying to share my experience with a similar truck in a similar situation.

 

OK.