What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Changed the headlights, one burned out so I figured I’d go ahead and do both…Still wondering if they were the original lamps. I haven’t touched them until now and I bought the truck used in 2012 w/ 94k miles.

 

scored TRD headers today for an absolute steal. Only thing is take a look at the crossover pipe. It’s got me sketched out.

what does everyone think ? Think I won’t have issues or should I take this to a welder friend to clean up, I’m also concerned that they changed the angle of the flange. Anyone with TRD headers can give some insight

 

More pics of the crossover

 

Immortalized her on canvas. Ok, so I didn’t do it, it was a Christmas present from my SIL. I hung the picture in the breakfast nook over my wife’s objections.

 

OK, I submit to the TW braintrust:

Which Gear oil weight for Rear Diff/Front Diff/T-Case?
I can't remember they require different weights...

I have 3 different weights:
75w-140 (this is Schaeffer's Synth)

$29 75w-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75w-90 (these were purchased at Autozone in Moab, UT as a backup)
80w-90 (this is Mag1 and nothing states if Dyno or Synth)

 

I run 75w140 in the rear diff and 75w90 in the t-case and front diff.

 

I keep a spreadsheet in my build thread based on the owners manual in my truck. It shows weights, quantity and torque specs for performing the fluid changes, hope this helps:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/swampyotas-2003-tacoma-build.646862/#post-22444011

 

I run Lucas 75-90 in front and rear diffs, and t-case. MT-90 in the transmission.

The Lucas was at the recommendation of Just Differentials (in Cashmere) when they put in the 4.88s, and the MT-90 was at Mike's @Digiratus recommendation as I recall.

 

Ditto.

Well, MT90 soon to be in the transmission

 

Ok... so, I just got off the phone with Fox tech support.

Again... the reason I'm proud to run Fox Shocks. I have always gotten great service and helpful information from them.

He spent at least 45 minutes with me going through every aspect of my LT build and my issues. (And of course none of the issues are Fox's fault, but he ran down every avenue with me anyway)

These coilovers WILL work for my application. Yes, they are not what I would want if I am trying to get every inch of travel out of them that I can, but with 35s going to 37s shorter body shocks would have to be bumped where I am bumped anyway. Even tubbed the way I am, if I have any more up travel I will rub at full stuff and lock... with 35s... I'll have to tub further right now if I want to go up to 37s. (Essentially Solo's kit running a short shock body can fit 35, is recommended for 33, and will only work for 37s if you hack the shit out of everything)

Also, at the shock body length I am at right now, I hit my bump just at 1 inch from contacting the frame above the LCA bushings, so the body could only theoretically be 1 inch shorter anyway.

Now, how to make the coil perches work. He gave me the two part numbers for the 2 piece spring retainer that raises the bottom of the coil up 1.5 inch so I will not have an issue contacting the CV. He gave my info to a rep they deal with direct, for me to order.


This is making the best out of a bad situation that started by me letting a vendor talk me in to saving money by going with Performance Series shocks instead of Factory Race... which I am not really saving much money because I've had to spend $100 on resi elbows, and now I'm going to have to spend $140 on spring retainers.

 

So you're running too long of shocks and spaced your bumps down? What are you cycling?

Going LT and gonna have less travel than stock width.

 

For some reason I thought you were running 140w in the rear diff. When I had the rear diff rebuilt last year, 75w140 is what was recommended.

 

But the gram won't even know

 

I didn't space my bumps down. My bumps are an inch higher than they were on stock travel. If I spaced the bumps up much more the actual LCA arm would hit the frame (where the stock bumps hit).

 

Looks like you have a ways to go before you're into the frame based on your previous pics.

So you haven't measured what it cycles with the shock and a CV in there?

 

I haven't set droop yet, because of the issues I am having with the spring perch. I'm about 7/8s of an inch from contacting the frame on the front LCA arm.

The fact that I'm close to rubbing the fender now, as opposed to being 2 inches away from the fender with stock travel with the same size tire tells me I have about 2 inches more up travel. I don't know about the droop travel yet because it's not set.

 

Added a bluetooth receiver to my OEM radio today. Haven't tried the phone calling aspect to it yet, but playing music from my phone through the vehicle's speakers is great! Installation was a 3/10 - especially since this wasn't the first time I've had the center console apart. I'd post a picture but it's well, bluetooth wireless...

 

I‘ve always run synthetic

$29 75w-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75w-90 in both diffs and the transfer case, I know ECGS and others recommend dino oil up to 140 weight but I don’t think that accounts for ambient temperature range. In below freezing temps, a 75 weight oil is much preferable and my truck rarely sees temps hot enough to reach the upper limit of 90 weight.

 

So... I just talked to Bobby at Solo. (I've been having a bit of trouble getting ahold of him, turns out the phone lines to his industrial park have been down since last week).

Anyway... He says they install off the self Kings that are 16 compressed, 24 extended.

My Fox are
16.44 compressed
24.45 extended

He said what I have are pretty much the exact Fox version of the Kings they use.

Glad to get that outof the way... was starting to remind of of the time I relocated my rear shocks and the peanut gallery all wanted to say the shocks were wrong, too long, and I would have no up travel.




LMFAO...

 

working on building my own bed rack, I want it nice and tight don't want to spend $1k on scrap metal and 12 small welds.

trying to decide 1-1/2 or 2" square tube
or
1-1/2" pipe, about 2" OD and have it bent to fit the contour.

Ill draw a few and go out for bids.