Low Oil Pressure... Engine replacement?

They have the same opportunity to evaluate its condition as any one else, I would say they actually have more of an advantage to evaluate it than the average buyer. If they choose to buy it without even starting it, that is their prerogative.

 

The only time I will ever go to a dealer is to buy a vehicle and if for some reason my truck needed a warrantied repair. That's really it no other reason. They can't be trusted to complete the most basic of services. My 5k mile visit left grease all over the doors and the included tire rotation was not done. Am I to expect them to change the oil and filter at my 10k visit? No thank you! I'll just stick to my own shop every 5k where I know it's done right. IMHO car dealers are absolute criminals for the majority of them. Rob you on the sale then cheat you on the service.

 

Kind of some old drag racing lore, but out of curiosity, was your truck getting better gas mileage, feeling more powerful and generally running better then ever right before?

 

About the same.

 

At this point your engine is not damaged. You have no oil pressure and a warning light came on to let you know so you can stop running it and get the oil pressure problem fixed before engine damage occurs. The oil pump is located on the inside of the timing cover. The oil pump relief valve could have picked up some trash and stuck open after the timing cover leak was repaired. I would pull the timing cover and inspect the oil pump.

 

Whats the story with the large metal pieces found in the filter the op mentioned. Last i knew large metal pieces floating around in an engine isn't good.

 

How do 'large' pieces (none of which are in photos) get past the sump to the filter?

Maybe my definition of 'large' isn't accurate.

Hopefully OP gets it worked out

 

The "large" pieces is just what the service advisor said to me. Probably just didn't relay the message from the tech properly.

 

Well at any rate i think you'd really need to know what the actual story is from this dealer, maybe get a 2nd opinion.

 

I didn’t see any metal in the photo. This screams stuck oil pump relief valve. The oil was cold and when the engine initially started the relief valve opened a further than normal. It picked up some trash from the timing cover repair which is most likely some old sealant and now it is stuck open. Remove the relief valve, clean the trash out and put it back together.

 

My $.02

1. Drain oil, filter through a Mr Coffee filter (showing my age) and check for metal. Rod bearings, main bearings, etc... ugghh
2. Refill oil, new filter. Restart checking oil pressure with gauge, don't rely on light.
3. Listen to engine running for noise again. Shutoff quickly if knocking to beat the band
4. Either remove and rebuild or replace as suggested with engine out of wrecked Tacoma. As an old engine builder, we never ever recommended using those cheap rebuilt engines. They cut corners big time. Be prepared that things will break and need replacing. Replace anything that is easily accessible at that time too that is marginal.

 

That dealer has no intention of trying to help you get Toyota to pay. They are going to do some "tear down" that they will say Toyota wanted to determine the cause, then they are going to tell you Toyota wouldn't cover it. They will bilk you for thousands for doing nothing.

You should have gone and got your truck.

 

I assure you it has nothing to do with oil viscosity.

 

Why would anyone pay for the tear down… it’s got 100k miles and is out of warranty …

only Toyota would authorize it in their “goodwill”

 

Don’t anyone reach out and hit me but…is an oil analysis worthwhile here? Maybe two samples, one from the filter which hopefully hasn’t been thrown away yet, and one from draining some engine oil straight from the pan? The analysis offers some information on what metals are present, and may be a helpful data point in regards to whether there was any actual internal damage to the motor, and what part of the motor may have provided whatever metals are present in the sample.

 

This stealer is sounding more and more like a scam on the warranty.

No dealer goes out of its way to find things wrong under warranty, unless they’re starving, because warranty pay is a pittance compared to pay work, and they rather not deal with the hassle of fighting the warranty and the fine print that could come back and bite them In the A$$.

The damage done by putting diesel on the tank would not be covered under warranty, insurance maybe, so there’s that too. They must be using some very Imaginative pencil work to make the warranty cover it.

My advice, drop this suckers.

Guys, guys, some dealers just wholesale to other independent dealers who have shop with repair resources to get all the work done for cheap, and sell high.

 

Much respect for your honesty and integrity although the dealership more than likely wholesaled it out. They don't give a rat's ass about history except when they can use it to lowball you on a trade-in value.

 

Yea that part was wild to me as well.
I didn’t want to “dilute” the thread pun intended. No warranty will cover “wrong fuel” also how would the dealer find out and you’re still derping around with diesel in the tank and not notice and performance issues.

a lot of weird things going on in this thread.

1. Diesel fuel warranty repair
2. Metal chunks that were not visible in oil filter
3. Engine noises that point to total failure but driveable vehicle
4. 4 days out of warranty at 100k miles
5. Head gasket thing mentioned ?!
6. Some sort of engine replacement diagnosis yet no real failure given …

 

Again I had to go reread some posts. So the diesel warranty situation, as I understand it, went like this:
a) diesel in the gasoline tank at a filling station, unclear how much gas was already in the tank and how much diesel was then added, somehow OP was able to drive some distance after that (?)
b) filling station paid for a dealer to “repair”, which sounds like it was only a clean out of fuel tank and lines, which sounds bizarre because would the whole engine not be gummed up and seized?
c) during (b) some fuel lines were damaged.
d) a different dealer caught the fuel line damage, later, and repaired that damage under warranty.

Do I have this piece of the story straight?