Eaton Front Diff eLocker

I think I'll just end up one eventually and just thought it'd be smart to knock it out while the gears are out. Just me trying to justify another purchase lol

 

If it were me I would do it while the gears are out to save on labor and a mini-kit to pull them again.

 

Better to have it than not need it than need it and not have it imo

sounds like ATRAC (MTS in third gens I believe) will do what you’re looking for for the most part. I use ATRAC ALL the time, it’s basically a ‘soft’ front locker. There are a few obstacles that it just hasn’t cut it though.

 

Ideally you'd run MTS+CC+Locker but ya brake simulated front differential, not as good as a locker but CC is legit.

 

With the Torsen on the front, in snow does the front end want to push in tight turns like in town going around a corner or pulling out of a driveway?

 

I've only had it on for this year and need too log more miles but from what I can tell it doesn't.

 

I have the harrop and so far it’s been solid. As other noted hasn’t been used a ton but it’s price of mine if/when needed. Def do it if you change gears if you just changing fluid I would wait. It’s not a simple add.

 

Which one did you get?

 

Been running a eaton in the front for about a year and a half with 35s/37s, zero issues with it and still havent been able to break anything due to it. I've seen more guys break cvs from wheel hopping/spinning with an open front than a locked front. Nice to not worry about air lines/compressor stuff too.

 

I got the pre assembled clamshell from ecgs when I re geared I think they use the Nitro gears Helix LSD.

The install on them is so simple plug play and forget, all it takes is 12v signal to activate it.

 

That's the one I'm looking at, how's it handle in 2hi? How much mpg did you lose with it spinning the drive shaft in 2hi?

 

I don't notice it in 2HI, I may have lost 1-2mpgs but it's negligible for the cost and benefit you get when you need it.

 

That's basically my line of reasoning, thanks for the confirmation.

 

I've been running an Eaton/Harrop front locker for a couple years... works great!

Only thing I did... I wired the power to the locker so I can only turn it on when the (factory) rear is either engaged or being engaged. That way, I can't accidentally switch it on while on the highway, fumbling for one of the adjacent light switches. Figured that would keep me from accidentally grenading the gears. I can only lock the front when the drivetrain computer allows me to lock the rear ... so at low speeds in 4lo. But this is the only situation where I need the front locked, so it seemed like a reasonable tradeoff.

One other issue I had -- and this might just be that I overfilled the diff, but I had an issue where oil made its way up to the top of the vent line and gummed up the breather. This was a year after installing the locker, but did occur when I was using it in steep terrain. I of course ignored this for months, and it occasionally oozed oil all over the wheel well. Wound up blowing out my axle seals thanks to the blocked breather. When I replaced them, and re-filled the diff, I routed the vent line to a catch can breather assembly. That way, if it overflows again, it won't block the breather and blow out the seals. So far, the catch can has remained dry, so maybe I just overfilled it the first time. I just wanted to make the point that engaging the locker might push the oil level slightly higher, and send oil up the vent line. If this occurs, I'd recommend immediately replacing the breather, before the pressure can damage the axle seals.

Both axles on these trucks are fairly light-duty, if you lock them for full-throttle shenanigans then you will probably break something. But used carefully, a set of e-lockers can get you through rough terrain with less wear-and-tear on the drivetrain than open gears. I agree with @Buttskevin21 there, just wish I had a badass photo to contribute as well.

For what it's worth, I'm just on 33" LT285s with 4.56 Nitro gears. I've been amazed at how effortlessly I've been able to tackle the same trails after adding a front locker.

 

A-TRAC works similar to a locker and limits uneven wheel spin. A front locker may not have helped you much.

Case in point, there is some video of my taco and several other rigs climbing an icy hill. The purely open diffs all spun a single front wheel whereas my taco with A-TRAC spun both. It was the first time I had seen it in action from outside the truck.

As others have said, a winch might be a bigger bang for the buck. And if you don’t have any yet, get some traction boards and a shovel.

 

Personally i went ARB's to eliminate any electrical failure. I hate anything electric on these trucks. Yes the ARB's had seal failures a while back but that has since been resolved and ive had mine front and rear locked now for 2.5 years with 0 leaks or failures. And ARB supposedly is the strongest locker on the market. But i get it if you just want to match electric rear with electric front. But ARB's front and rear with FJ Tcase has been almost bomb proof. You wont break axles if you just don't do dumb stuff and bounce your truck and turn fully cranked locked.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vdCxyQgO6PY

 

Ugh worst YouTubers out there.

I think TJM has a better and stronger design but they don’t have a strong presence in the US.

OP could go all Gucci and get a Kaiser Locker but don’t think they make anything for the Taco.

 

I was just more so saying from a stand point of the rep for ARB talking. I don't watch their stuff lol. Personally i think they are annoying lol

 

Technically electrical failure is still present though in addition to introducing pneumatic failures

If electrical fails to compressor, no locker. I personally don’t think this particular argument is valid

 

I was more so talking about the diff side not the engine bay side were compressor and stuff is mounted since that's were you always see a failure.