Low Oil Pressure... Engine replacement?

Off highway mobile equipment. Think skidders, tractors etc. Engines basically have two speeds... Low idle and high idle. Torque requirements change, rpm does not.

 

Got it. I see what you’re saying.

but with the cost of fire apparatus’, I’m sticking with the manufacture recommendations

OP, sorry to have derailed your thread

 

There is a motor and transmission, crawl control with 17k miles on it for sale in the FB Tacoma parts swap page for $2000.

 

Any updates on this?

 

Nothing yet. I'm waiting to see if Toyota corporate will help out and this week definitely isn't a work week for most people.

Hopefully hear something early next week.

 

Thanks. I hope it works out for you.

 

best of luck

 

Curious, did the dealership give you a trade in price, I’m sure it’s still worth a decent chunk at auction. Also wondering if they’d help you roll that thing into a new one or if they’ve discussed that with you.

I’m def not happy with the history on that truck though, particularly the timing cover - I wonder if an independent shop could just crack that open and determine anything?

Jan 4th we’ll have had our ‘17 for 6 years, I have 100,650 miles on it. First accident last week as I was parked and someone backed into it. I’m such a baby about it I was considering trading it in after it got repaired .

 

Stop using this video as an example. It's not a tacoma engine. The engine the CCN uses in the video is a turd, the camry engines in that generation had oil issues no matter when you changed your oil. Find a 3.5 with similar issues and link that

 

He also mentions in this video the oil was changed at the dealer and they use bulk oil so you getting the cheapest oil not the best oil.

I would like his take on those of us that change our own oil using quality products.

 

it seems many overlook that toyota recommends both 10K and 5K OCI, depending on use. and what's important is this may change throughout the year or life of the truck.

i would bet many people that go by the 10K OCI actually fall into the 5K category, at least at certain times.

 

Great advice. Add one thing further. Make nice with your local machine shop.

 

Just want to put out some facts about diesel engines and idling. First the engine will idle just fine... the issue is cylinder pressure. A diesel engine runs off fuel volume delivery opposite of a gas engine that uses air volume delivery. What this means it the fuel is metered to control RPM. There is no air throttle valve. ( except newer versions like CM2350 ISB Cummins engines but still not used to meter airflow into the engine )

So the engine at idle has a very small amount of fuel injected to maintain idle, this results in very little cylinder pressure. Cylinder pressure is needed to push the rings outwards against the cylinder walls. Without this pressure, the cylinders can get washed out causing excessive wear and oil contamination. Another issue is heat, at idle a diesel engine creates very little heat. This causes more cylinder pressure issues because the pistons shrink and causes my bypassing of the rings. This is why highway tractors have the grille covers even in mild climates. The grille cover is just a bandaid solution though... newer commercial vehicles will use a diesel auxiliary heating unit like Spheros or a Proheat unit.

The use of a hi idle switch is always the best way to idle a diesel engine. This will increase cylinder pressure and produce a little more heat. It still isn't the best... diesels prefer to work hard and will last much longer as a result.

This information is applicable regardless of emissions compliance such as mechanical or electronic injection, pre-EGR, equipped with DPF or equipped with SCR emissions systems... these are add ons, and do not change the basic engine design or operation.

 

I've always gone with 5K intervals in my Toyotas. Never had an engine problem, but that's probably a combination of doing the maintenance at those intervals and how well Toyota engines are built.

Back in the 1970s and '80s when Toyota started to sell in volume, my dad owned an auto salvage. He sold a lot of used GM, Ford, Chrysler engines both to independent and dealer shops. Way up back in the yard there was a mountain of engines destined for scrap. There were piles of perfectly good Toyota engines because no one ever needed them. The one exception was this crap box 1972 Carolla that some gave him because the engine had blown at about 150K miles. Since we had dozens of perfectly useable engines in completely rusted out Carollas we just pulled one and dropped it into the car. I drove that for a few years until the floor boards rusted out. The only thing I had to do was brakes and replace a rear axle bearing.

BTW, this is the perfect TW thread. It starts with a guy who possibly has a blown engine, to a discussion of diesels and fire trucks, to me talking about cars from the 1970s.

 

No, no trade in offer. I'm mainly dealing with the service side at this point. I'm sure if nothing comes from Toyota they may offer a trade, but who knows.

 

Why are we talking about things from half a century ago. In the 70s were you taking advice from people that were shoveling horse shit in the 1920s?

 

For the same reason we're talking about diesel engine idling in a thread about a blown Toyota gasoline engine.

Because we can.

 

Thank you sir

 

Can relate..I had a Datsun 280ZX as a teenager that turned out to be rotted out underneath..frame, floorboard, etc. No problem I think, running gear has 75K so I'll sell it to someone who needs an engine/trans and get some money

Nope.

Nobody had any use for it for those same reasons you mentioned.

 

Thing is toast , dealer ain't gonna do anything but string you along a few days while they await word from corporate . Then you will get the phony "sorry we tried BS". Then right back trying to get you to fold for the new motor. Fuck em find a local guy that specializes in foreign vehicles.