Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Anyone have pictures of the shock mounts for a shortbed from in the wheel well?

 

Does the SUA kit come with brake lines? If so anyone know how long they are? Seems they got missed in the packaging process.

 

Mine measure 25”

 

Thank you for the help

 

Anyone know how far the rear shock mounts are off the bolts for the bed on short bed. Mine is looking like it would be hard against the bolts that hold the bed together for it to be the 4” away from the body mount. Which seems like it would make it hard to get the bed on and off.

 

im starting the SUA later today so I don’t exactly know. Only reference I could find

 

I’m wondering about the inside of the wheel well, there is a plate with bolts holding the bed front and tub together that seem to either need to be trimmed or are hard into the tower. Seems like it’s going to make it hard to get the bed off if that is the situation. So I’m just trying to make sure before I cut the bed notch out in the wrong position.

 

Easy stuff. Just have to lift the bed high enough to clear. 2 people can easily do it.

 

Thank you. Is yours touching in the front?

 

It is not.

 

Been working on installing a set of the frame braces. Thought it would be a simple project that would take two or so days. Turns out I was wrong, per the usual and the project has taken much longer. More so due to time constraints and unforeseen hurdles than the design itself.

Regardless, I've been making progress. The brace is fairly well designed and is a "bolt on" product. That said, you may have to finesse the braces onto the frame on a truck that has been used as there is obviously a lot of movement in the frame. The brace bolts to the factory bump stop mount holes so you do have to figure out a new bump stop configuration. I already had hydros in custom mounts so I simply got new cans and made new gussets, welding the new can directly to the brace. Pretty happy with how it's turned out so far but only time will tell how well I cycled.



I did find that I had to notch the brace to fit around the body mount bracket. The brace was designed on a AC and although the contours of the frames are the same between DC & AC, there are mounts that vary in location. It was either I notch into the body mount bracket OR cut the brace.

Lastly, the brace will create a hurdle for guys running sliders. The brace bolts to the frame underneath the cab, which is great for integrity but I am going to have to figure out a solution to run my sliders in conjunction. I personally run the Pelfrey bolt on sliders so removing them was easy but I will have to modify them to get them back into place. As of right now, I'm thinking I'll just weld the last leg directly to the frame brace but I'm open to other solutions.

 

Just to clarify for everyone we have never used an access cab frame for any of the design. We only have a frame scan of a DCSB which we use for all desings. We notch the cab mount slightly rather than the brace to maximize the cross sectional area of the brace.

Thank you for being one of our test dummies and we will have detailed, install instructions to make the install easy for everyone else.

For those watching along when we come out with a new product we typically give them to certain members to install (with no real instructions) in order to get some real world feed back on what we can do to make the installs easier.

 

My mistake. I thought I read a few pages back that the brace was designed on an AC. Maybe I'm confused over the conversation of when you installed in on the shop truck. Regardless, I contemplated notching the body mount instead but chose to go this route. Hopefully my decision doesn't have too many negative effects. haha.

 

I dont know why I thought those installed from the top down and the bed had to be removed. Seems like maybe just the tire and possibly the shock to squeeze in there?

 

I found the limited amount of room between the gas tank and frame to be an issue to get the nuts on the inside of the frame and ended up dropping the gas tank. You could have likely had success with removing the bed but I didn’t have the man power or space to do so.

It also doesn’t help that I already have my frame boxed with the DMZ kit so access was very difficult. I made it work though.

 

Right on thanks

 

C'mon....I just earlier this week pulled my bed off and put it on by myself...and its a 6 foor bed...its not that hard.

 

Anything is easy with the right tools. I’ve taken my bed off by myself back when I had access to a car lift.

 

Right tools?? I just lifted it up and let it slide off the back...now I did remove the fenders first. Pretty much did the opposite putting it on...had it sitting upright on the tailgate side tilted it onto the frame and dragged it the rest of the way up...no tools required

 

lol I’ve done it that way too, once the bedsides are off the bed shell is really light my bolt through bed cage adds 16 bolts into the equation that suck to do by yourself though…