Anti-seize or no anti-seize

Spark plugs are torqued so, so minimally that seizing shouldn't even be an issue. There's nothing in there to start corroding the threads unless you're flooding your truck or there's leakdown into the wells creating buildup. Not to mention at this point good quality, new spark plugs are plated/coated with an anti-seize material and galvanic corrosion between incompatible metals isn't an issue like it was 30+ years ago.

 

Ford 5.4 Triton walks in a says, “Hold my beer.”

 

Excellent video but what’s even nicer is that 69 z28 you have in your garage, love it brother

 

Here’s something that might interest a few. This is from NGK.

1. Anti-seize

NGK spark plugs feature trivalent plating. This silver or chrome-colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without lubrication or anti-seize.

Anti-seize can act as a lubricant, altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage and/or metal shell stretch. Thread breakage can sometimes involve removing the cylinder head for repair. Metal shell stretch changes the heat rating of the spark plug and can result in serious engine damage caused by pre-ignition. Do not use anti-seize or lubricant on NGK spark plugs. It is completely unnecessary and can be detrimental.

2. Corona stain

Corona stain is a light brown or tan discoloration on the outside of the ceramic insulator above the metal shell/hex. Corona stain is created by the high voltage traveling thru the plug that attracts the dirt or oil particles surrounding the exposed ceramic insulator between the wire/coil boot and spark plug metal shell. Corona stain is completely normal and should not be mistaken for exhaust gas blow-by or a broken seal inside the spark plug.

3. Gapping fine-wire spark plugs

While most NGK spark plugs are pre-gapped, there are occasions when the gap requires adjustment. Care must be taken to avoid bending or breaking off the fine-wire electrodes. NGK recommends a round wire-style or pin gauge gap tool to measure the gap. If the gap must be adjusted, use a tool that only moves the ground electrode and does not pry between or against the electrodes. NGK also recommends adjusting the gap no more than +/- 0.008” from the factory preset gap.

4. Torque

Torque is crucial in the ability of the plug to dissipate heat and perform properly. Always follow the manufacturer recommended torque specification. An under-torqued spark plug can lead to excessive vibration and improper heat dissipation, causing spark plug and/or engine damage. Over torquing may cause any of the following: thread damage/breakage, compromised internal seals leading to gas leakage, metal shell stretch leading to poor heat dissipation and pre-ignition.

5.“Copper spark plugs”

“Copper spark plugs” is a term often used to describe a standard material spark plug. However, this terminology is incorrect, as standard material plugs do not have electrodes made from copper. Copper is soft with a low melting point and cannot be used for electrodes, as they would wear very quickly. A standard material spark plug uses a nickel-alloy that may include a small copper core. The copper core has nothing to do with the electrical performance of the spark plug. A copper core is used to increase heat dissipation and durability by lowering the electrode temperatures. Nearly all NGK spark plugs, including precious metal iridium and platinum plugs, have a copper core to increase the electrode durability. Special nickel alloys, platinum, and iridium electrodes, along with copper cores are all used to enhance durability – durability meaning how long a spark plug will last before it needs to be replaced.

 

I had 230k miles on a Ford 5.4, zero issues.

 

Most were neglected or fleet but it was common. The phaser issue was much worse for long term.

I owned a 4,6 and it was a trooper

 

lol, I didn’t even use anti-seize on my plugs in 1975.

Actual verified facts on TW. Nice lol

 

I do a ton of maintenance for people.

Every single time, that a 30 minute spark plug job becomes a 4 hour job is because of

a) no antisieze was used last time
or
b) some fuknuts torqued the plugs to xxftlbs

There is absolutely zero harm in using antisieze on lawn/Marine/auto spark plug threads. There's no valid argument against it.

 

Anytime i deal with aluminum heads, i put some anti-sieze on the plug threads. Just don't overdue it.

 

I'm still happy with my little 3L Ranger but I'm sitting way lower in kilometers; about 135,000 converted. It's a pig on gas, as underpowered as can be but I'm not convinced it's going to die given how poorly the previous owner treated it and how happy it still is.

 

NGK begs to differ. Post#25.

 

^ THIS! ^

First don't be stupid and gob a whole bunch on the threads, a little bit will do ya. Second the torque pendants will humph and grunt but the truth is tight and a little bit more is all you need. Here's another thing that will cause the pendants to humph and grunt, use iridium plugs. Third, I put anti-seize on anything I want to come apart later, but I live where they salt the roads, ymmv. Fourth, really, don't over think it.

Iridium plugs in a 2nd gen 6 This plug has close to 90K miles on it and was installed with anti-seize.

 

Agreed! But I will say that the armchair alarmist who hang out here certainly are entertaining.

 

The worst is the 4x4 on highway threads, people make it seem like your truck will explode.


Anti seize doesn’t hurt shit in moderation . The horror stories are from people using it like tooth paste.

 

Ok. Well, I guess it's 50/50. Most say yes and most say no. Thanks for everyones input. There are a lot of intersting posts. Have a great New Year and be safe.

 

So your one truck that had no issues and that means that the years of repairing trucks are null and void. Fords 5.4 modular engine has to be one of the worst reliable engines ever made.

 

Same situation but opposite experience. Worked on multiple car engines that had anti-seize on plugs that had baked out the carrier oil and left the threads packed full of hard gummy anti-seize filler. They came out difficult and go in difficult - ain't nobody like driving a plug in the entire length with a ratchet. (And no, not cross threaded, counter rotation to catch the thread properly, just gummed up with anti-seize.)

Today, after the initial break free, if it doesn't thread out with fingers on the extension, they get tighten back down and I decline to go further.

I cannot understand how it takes 4 hours without anti-seize, you just turn them with a mini breaker bar and then twist out with your fingers. What are you doing that it takes 4 hours, spending 30min with each plug sweet talking and rubbing it's tip?

 

Agree, the 3-valve 5.4 is quite possibly the worst engine in the last 25 years. The 2-valve was ok, most people don't know the difference though.

 

We used to get them roaring hot, spray penetrating in, crack them, then let them sit over night.

Never broke one with that method.

Terrible design.

 

Plus all of them will have VVT and cam phaser issues.