TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I’ll answer that for free. Lol! NA only. These things are pointless on a supercharger. Or at least not worth the huge effort to make them work

 

And that folks is all we need to know. Case closed.

 

Happy New Year. Tensioner #3 down. Just got back from a trip with the truck. Made it 350 miles in a snow storm in the mountains with road closures and having to find alternate routes, etc and gave out right after getting off the freeway back in the city. Left the light turning onto our street and felt now power. Thankful for that. Ziptied it out of the way real quick and limped it home. Time for an upgrade! Coincidentally, I was going to try and find and replace the blower belt and some other stuff tomorrow since I was still getting some squealing. This idler isn't great.. but isn't terrible either. Just snapped in the same spot in the casting as the previous 2.

 

What belt were you running?

 

Gates micro v 5pk1765 on a 2.5 pulley.

 

I need to read back over the first page and do some research.. but ideally I'd like to run one of the upgraded billet tensioners (whatever one is recommended these days) and do the belt wrap mod to allow me to run an OE belt with my 2.5 pulley. I don't want to mess with cutting off ribs.

 

Could it be that the gates belt is too tight/doesn't allow any stretch?

 

I would run an ARS or Thump tensioner, as they are beefed up but do not have a stronger spring like the Roush. Still 40 ft lbs. of tension being applied to the drive system.

https://americanracingsolutions.com...-street-performance-belt-tensioner-2003-2004/

 

I have a free tensioner if you need something to hold you over. Shoot me a msg if you need it. Went to a Roush when I first installed and have the factory one. Also have a couple cut down pulley wraps but those are not free lol.

 

This has happened on different pulley sizes and different belt sizes. I was running the appropriate belt with this pulley for some time now.. it just finally gave out again.

Stronger spring would only help no? What's the catch there? Seems a lot of guys went/are wanting to go Rousch?

I appreciate it sir! All you guys are awesome. @racebug68 already hit me up too. Lol. I'll probably just let it sit for now until I figure out the route I want to go and then start ordering parts and maybe snag some stuff from you fine people. I'll end up doing the belt wrap mod and replace some other idlers while I'm in there.

 

@XPOTRPR the only risk you’re taking running the Roush tensioner and the stiffer spring is that some folks have had the bottom stud on the tensioner bracket shear off.

personally I would do like Robert said and run a billet tensioner with the same spring tension as stock. Then you don’t have to worry about that stud snapping off and leaving you stranded. I think that happened to @White lightning boosted a few months back

 

it did not. however i was just considering going back to the stock one. 1st i need to get my truck to a qualified shop. see how expensive this engine noise is.

 

Ahhh okay, may have been someone else in this thread. I remember reading something about it a few months back, and I ended up putting my stock tensioner back on for that reason.

Hopefully the issue turns out to be something simple once it’s torn apart. Sorry to hear you’re having issues. Do you have any videos of the noise?

 

its too intermittent to film. kinda sounds like a stuck valve pounding on a piston. dont know what to do.

 

Can you borrow a borescope and take a look? At least you could see the intake valves and any scoring on the cylinder walls.

 

maybe... im just in a tight spot being its my dd. dont have 10k for another motor either.

 

Ahhh I do remember all that. Hard to keep things straight in here sometimes. Lol ok, so stock spring tension billet tensioner it is.

 

So, Steeda tensioner, new idler for it, belt wrap mod, and OE belt. Think that's my plan.

 

That was my lower stud which sheared off. It wound up being a serious fiasco too because having a straight line of sight to see where to drill straight in there is near impossible.

It has happened to myself, and Todaywastheday or athlaos and one other member. I just can't remember for the life of me who it was.

There is no need for a stronger spring on these applications. Just a stronger tensioner at some point if that is an area of interest for you. I'm back on the stock tensioner with a double bearing idler retrofit on it and am running a 2.7 upper. All is well, zero slip.

@XPOTRPR be careful with Steeda. Some folks in here wound up having issues with it for whatever reason. Do a search on here and just type Steeda and you may find what they were.

 

Looks like it was just fitment/modding for clearance and most haven't had issues since.