Crush washers need to be re-torqued

Toyota crush washers are a similar design with felt sandwiching an aluminum washer. Maybe it’s just an Amazonian Chinesium product?

 

Most things on Amazon are Chinese.

 

Yes, the crush washers I have are Amazonian Chinesium. Lol... I like that term.

Those Toyota crush washers you are displaying, are indeed thinner than what I'm using, as JoeCOVA also measured and mentioned.

 

From the discussion we had earlier about torque wrenches, I am going to check my Craftsman torque wrenchfor accuracy. Found this video below that will help, several video's out there actually that describe this same process. I do baby my torque wrenches and always reset to zero after using them. But will give me peace of mind to validate the accuracy of it though. So I know I'm not over-torqueing that oil drain bolt.

https://youtu.be/zUfv7hT1Has

 

At a previous employer, we had a torque calibration testing unit. Technically you can take the cap off the back and adjust the spring tension to calibrate them on click type torque wrenches. I did it with company tools, and my personal field Husky cheapo, but never played with any of my good wrenches.

 

Am I the only one who doesn't torque theirs? I worked professionally as a mechanic for several years, never once have I torqued a drain plug nor have I had one come back. It's a feel thing for me.

 

Didn’t torque mine… but I did say “Click” when I got the Fumoto in place with a Crescent wrench. It’s the feel thing.

 

Well, I can do drain plugs by feel (guesstimation of gute-n-tite) too. I do use torque wrenches quite often when working on my motorcycles, and since I'm now retired, I have lot's of time to be very precise and measured when I'm working on other things mechanically.

For instance that fill plug on the side of the 'Taco's auto transmission. Can't really get a torque wrench up in that area for it, so I can generally feel when it's adequately tightened according to OEM spec (29 ft lbs).

 

Same. 18 years as a technician for several manufacturers and I did not torque, mostly because you just get a feel for what's right. Aluminum oil pan vs Steel, aluminum crush washer vs rubber sealed plug vs copper washer.

 

i give it half of an ugga, thats around 20-30 ft lbs i would imagine

 

Fumoto valve solved this issue for me.

 

I’ve been a licensed mechanic since 1978 seen different situations military and industrial. I never use a torque wrench on a drain plug. Early on I developed a sense of feel working on air cooled VWs which are all light alloy castings, easy to strip. Govt, defense contractors and most all large businesses used Snap On, Mac, Sturdevent and sometimes mititoyo. I’m not against using torque wrench but not for a drain plug, never stripped one or had a leaker yet.

 

That's way too much!!! 3/8 of a dugga at most.

 

I’ve always done it by feel on my other cars, and never had a problem.

My first oil change on the Tacoma I also tightened by feel. After reading on TW about techs overtorquing the filter housing, I checked that and the drain bolt a few days later. The drain bolt was scarily loose. Toyota crush washer, and it was like 40 degrees when I changed the oil.

 

Per Toyota, the 2GR takes 30ft.lbs of torque for the drain plug. Personally, I have never torqued one. I have been an auto tech for several brands over 20 yrs, I just go by feel, and have never had one leak. 10 yrs military aviation before that. But there you HAVE to torque EVERYTHING. So I have developed a pretty good feel for it. I do torque everything when doing engine work. Oil change is not engine work.

 

Years ago I could not resist the Harbor Fright cheapo Pittsburg torque wrenches. I decided to test them exactly the way the above video does.
My only complication was I had to do a little trig to account for the wrench not being exactly horizontal when locked in the vice. I forget the numbers now
but it was worth doing to split hairs. I took a bunch of containers to an animal shelter I volunteered at with a very accurate scale and weighed them all.
I was amazed at the accuracy OOTB. Did not expect that. I have not used them in a while and probably should recalibrate them before using again.
I found it valuable to see what 25ftlbs felt like...85 etc. Head bolts, spark plugs and suspension parts I'll use it. Drain plugs I just feel it.

 

I love torque wrenches. I use them quite often. As a bike mechanic using titanium bolts on carbon parts I've learned to rely on the torque wrench.

In a past life as an ironworker I've torqued a zillion bolts with and without a torque wrench.

That transfers over to trucks. I use my torque wrench as much as possible. But... I've never used one on a drain plug. The torque number is there beacsue they have to put a number of some sort. It's very much a feel thing for me.

Doubly so for using Amazon parts that may be out of spec. I'd rather my bolt "feel" tight than a torque wrench telling me it's tight based on parts I'm not using.

It's not hard to tighten a drain plug properly without a torque wrench.

 

I use torque wrenches. I spend way too much time fixing all of these expert mechanics torque by touch mistakes.

 

A good mechanic knows when it's appropriate to use a torque wrench.. and when it's not necessary

 

I use them almost daily. "I know the feel", my hands are calibrated" bull fkn shit.

Especially when the manufacturer tech repair manual says so.