CEL and Slip Indicator After Rotation/Balance..

So, I went to Discount Tire yesterday for my (free) rotation/balance that I do every ~5k miles... Got the truck back from them about an hour later with the Check Engine Light and Slip Indicator illuminated..
(2010 PreRunner ~185k mi)

Mentioned it to them and they sent me to a Brakes Plus down the road to pull codes. Only codes that came up are for O2 sensors (I don't know what they were off the top of my head), he cleared them and they came back ~30 seconds later and said they'd have to do a diagnostic ($99+) to see exactly what it is..

Discount Tire is adamant that there's no way they could've messed up an O2 sensor by taking four tires off/on but they agreed that if the diagnostic shows that it's something they could've damaged/caused, they'll pay for it but if it's not something they could've done during a rotation/balance then they're not going to pay up.. Seems reasonable?

What are some things that could've happened here? There were no lights/issues with the truck when I gave it over to them.

Is this just a bad coincidence that the O2 sensors crapped out when they had it?

Is there something else they could've done that tripped the CEL/Slip Indicator lights?

Any tips on handling a situation like this? Never had something like this happen before.

TIA

 

I’d say it’s a coincidence.
I have to agree with them on this one.
I see no way to damage an O2 by doing a simple tire rotation.

See if you can get the codes.
Maybe we can point you in the right direction towards diagnosing it yourself.

 

How long since you added gas? A loose or crooked cap will set those lights.

 

Could the O2 codes be old and something else tripped those lights?
I'll see if I can go back by or find my OBD2 thing to see em again.

It's been a few days since my last fill up. Tightened the cap this morning before I left for work just in case and it didn't clear on my ~30min drive to work.

 

So it was loose?

Just like it takes x key starts to appear, it takes x to go away if that was the problem.

Clear it manually and see if it stays off, after you pull the codes

O2 sensors are not related to the tires at all, and unlikely to be related to a gas cap situation either.

 

I don't think so? Maybe it was? Idk... When I tightened it earlier, it just clicked a few times...
Maybe I'm just an idiot? I'm now doubting everything. My last fill up was the 31st.

I'll swing by somewhere and get the codes/clear them and see what happens.

 

A gas cap will cause an Evap code.
Not an O2 code.

O2 codes are set Air Flow and Oxygen sensors.

 

Well, I couldn’t find a scanner today but I looked it over and didn’t see anything obviously wrong.

took the gas cap off and back on too just in case.

 

A evap leak code won't show up in 30 seconds after clearing, it takes longer than that for the monitor to run. Like a couple days sometimes

A code showing up that quickly is usually a circuit integrity code (short to ground, short to power, etc).

The oxygen sensor heater circuit is checked fairly quick, especially since they're needed to heat up the sensor on startup. The pcm watches the current flow through the heater element (like an electric stove top), any current flow above or below the normal range it expects to see and it will code. Really common for the heater circuit to fail before the sensor itself fails.

 

Yeah…doesn’t that year check evap during key off?

 

Not sure, they switched over to a LDP setup at some point. @Bishop84 will know

 

Not sure, the 2nd gens were really old in architecture. We don't see many evap problems with them.

This thread is painful. We need the code.

 

5 hours* after the ignition switch is turned OFF, the electric leak detection pump creates negative pressure (vacuum) in the EVAP (Evaporative Emission) system. The ECM monitors for leaks and actuator malfunctions based on the EVAP pressure.



HINT:
*: If the engine coolant temperature is not below 35°C (95°F) 5 hours after the ignition switch is turned off, the monitor check starts 2 hours later. If it is still not below 35°C (95°F) 7 hours after the ignition switch is turned off, the monitor check starts 2.5 hours later.

 

Cleared them again and only P0031 came back in the time I was sitting there. Checked the ABS wires/plugs and they looked fine. Dirty from the road/snow but intact..
Also check the ‘A/F HTR’ fuse and it looked fine.

Sorry, scanners at my buddy’s house and I only go there M/W/F to lift and I couldn’t find it on Wednesday.. BlueDriver thing I ordered should come tomorrow so there shouldn’t be anymore suspense lol

 

With the key on, unplug the A/F sensor. (Sensor between engine and the converter. The 1st sensor)
See if you have power to pin # 2 (white wire) of A/F connector.

 

I was told that the ABS sensors could trip the same lights and it's near where they were working so it could make sense so I figured I'd do a quick look..

Sensor I'd be looking for is this I believe? Checked it on RockAuto, Probably gonna go with what my local NAPA has in stock to skip shipping time/fees.. Just want to make sure that's what the issue actually is before I go buying/replacing things.
I don't think anyone would/could've tried to steal my cat while I was there.. I waited at the shop for the hour or so they had my truck and I could see it the whole time except for when they pulled it into the garage.

I work until 3 today but I'll see if I can get into that when I'm off.

 

Agreed get a denso if possible. NTK is also a common Japanese supplier

Bosch makes a decent product but technically those are more for euro/German cars. But still a good sensor if you can't find the denso

 

I could try checking that when I check what @TnShooter posted if you find the list.

NAPA carries Denso, looks like they're double the price I would pay at RockAuto though.. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/DEN2349050
I'll have to call and see if they'll do any kind of price matching.
While I'm doing the upstream one, I should probably do the one downstream too, no? Also, how necessary is the O2 sensor socket/wrench for this?

NAPA also shows they have Bosch, Denso, and NTK (listed as NGK).
Gonna stick with Denso since that's what I've heard/read in multiple places.

 

Gotcha, when I put the one in my cart on RockAuto it said "Manufacturers recommend replacing O2 sensors in pairs (both Upstream or both Downstream). An older, slower sensor can cause an imbalance in the engine management system, leading to poor fuel economy and possible damage to the catalytic converter."

Last thing I did to the truck was put a dash cam in week or so ago.. Last thing engine related was an oil change in November.

EDIT: Advance Auto was the only one willing to price match RockAuto so I'll be grabbing it from there later today.

 

12V sound right?

Checked the pins on the O2 sensor based on a ChrisFix video (black wires) and did not have continuity so I guess that’s it?