NJ B.S. Thread

@Chux rebuilt his engo IIRC, they don't seem that complex, what's stopping you up?

 

New Tacoma owner from Totowa, NJ checking in !

 

Getting the brushes set before installing the rotor, they’re in a cavity that gets blocked by the rotor when it’s inserted. I’m not sure how to hold them in position

 

Pics? I dealt with similar shit rebuilding my elocker motor. I got creative with zip ties to hold the brushes down. Basically find a way to sneak something in to hold the brushes in and can be pulled out when the rotor is like half inserted.

I was told the zip tie trick but this worked for me, but prob wont work for you:

 

The rotor drops into a cylinder without much clearance on either side.



there is a bearing at the bottom, then the part the brushes touch

 

okay I would attempt that by shoving a long zip tie in a circle to try to half hold the brushes with the rest of the zip tie pushing out the top of the assembly. It should hold at least three brushes in, and you can maybe try to drop the armature in?

@ToyRyd04 @Rockbaron1 thoughts? Y’all get pretty creative

 

I'm thinking (3) Zipties, with the ends inserted from the bottom of the motor housing, covering each brush. Creating like a funnel \ / with 3 sides, they need to be long so that as you slide the assembly down, you can still hold on the zip ties and that as you lower the winding assembly further and further the springs will compress more. Then as that bearing starts to take up majority of the space, slowly pull each ziptie out while lowering the winding assembly further taking out the gap for the brushes to go anywhere.

 

my experience

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/why-buy-an-engo-winch.639345/

 

so that won't help the man in the current situation though

 

Yeah looks like 4 brushes, so probably 4 zip ties, but those springs look strong too. I also have a crazy idea involving water, a freezer and using the bottom bearing hole as a mold

 

Water helped cause the current situation, but not a totally crazy idea

 

once it’s all set a ton of electric parts cleaner will help the water

 

I was thinking about strips out of a 2L soda bottle as shims instead of the zip ties. Where are you located?

 

Didn’t say it would, just “my experience” from you saying I rebuilt it

Ask hunter Uncle I’m sure he knows..

 

I know this may sound crazy and not quite as elaborate as some of @cynicalrider ideas but why not just pull the end cap off the motor and reset the brushes the way they are intended instead of trying to fight with the entire armature through the whole case of the motor, not sure how warn does it but most electric motors have 2-4 small hex bolts or largeish flat screw driver bolts to hold the end cap on

akchooally, since you already have the motor removed the bolts you took out could just sandwich it all together, you might just need a screwdriver and a hammer to get between the motor housing and the end cap and just pop it off exposing the brushes

 

@hoarder23 it’s 4 brushes right? Get two toothpicks or something similar that you can cut to length, maybe those plastic coffee stirrers. Measure the diameter of the bearing and add a little. That’s how far apart opposite brushes need to be for the bearing to drop in. Cut whatever you found to this length and place them in to hold each brush and spring pair apart. Drop your rotor in and it will push the spacers out. Grab and remove spacers with needle nose pliers.

edit; don't do anything until this is approved by Hunter.

 

I’m in Hamilton

 

The housing is 2 parts, seems like the end cap is aluminum and the barrel is steel but I can’t get it to budge. I’d assume it was glued during assembly plus 8 years of galvanic corrosion to really stick together. I could find a way to cool the bottom and heat the top but the spacer inside is some sort of plastic so can’t get too crazy.

The problem is the bearing on the rotor fits into a cavity just below where the brushes are so I’m not sure something could remain and there isn’t space to get something back out with the housing still assembled. I was thinking a disc from a soda bottle as that could remain under the bearing and not be too much a bother.

 

Agree. Leaving is for people who dedicate themselves to being able to hit on the light, hook up, etc etc. Where I grew up roll racing started for bikes cause they couldn't leave other than ext swing arm setups so it would be a bridge roll race.

maybe on planet tik tok

 

Yea that aluminum cap should come off, I doubt it’s “glued”, most doesn’t even have a gasket but corrosion could definitely be a factor. If it were mine I’d heat the cap a little with a propane torch, not a lot so the plastic doesn’t get harmed but it doesn’t take much heat to get aluminum to start “moving”. Maybe hit with a little heat, let it cool, repeat a few times to really get it to flex and loosen to try to break that bond and then start tapping around it with a hammer to persuade it to pop loose and it will come right off