Kicker hideaway- final upgrade to the $250(+) 3rd gen premium upgrade (+Kicker Key 180.4 amp)

If it's too wide why can't they rotate it 180 degrees? I thought this was a perfect fit for under the seats?

 

I couldn’t fit mine under either seat. Passenger has a bar under it, power driver would not fit. I put it behind passenger side rear seat.

 

I had them install under the driver seat and it seems top be working fine. I can feel the bass more than if under the passenger seat but overall a huge improvement. I did notice that not only is there a crossbar under the passenger seat but there are also two AC ducts that look like they blow air to the rear seats and the box would block them so I think the driver seat is the right decision if you can get it to fit and it is tight.

 

How is this mounting location working out? I'm thinking of doing the same.

 

There are HVAC ducts under both front seats.

 

I am going to be installing a kicker hideaway on Tuesday, and after reading through 36 pages I have a couple questions. Hopefully @destin_meeks can chime in.

I’ll start by saying I am very mechanically inclined but I hate electrical work and always try to avoid it.

so I am going under the drivers seat, and I’ll be running the wires through the existing cutout. Power wire is straight forward, but I need some help with the speaker wires. I was planning on running to the front kick panel on both driver and passenger to tap into the speaker wires.

1- What is the best routing to get from the driver side to passenger kick panel? Run through the center console/passenger seat under carpet?

2- Can I use a quick splice into the wires for the rear speakers or do I have to run to the front speaker wires? I’m trying to not need to extend the wires that came with the hideaway harness.

3- If I can’t use the rear speaker wires in the kick panel loom, where is the easiest place to get to the front wires?

4- Can anyone confirm the +\- speaker wire colors? I’ve looked in other threads and there was some disagreement.

5- If the blue remote wire is needed, what power source are you running it to?

I normally just jump in and figure things out on my own, but I just had surgery and I’m limited on physical activity for a few weeks so any input is greatly appreciated.

 

Don’t deal with working in the kick panel. It’s a pain.
Also, don’t mess with quick splices. They destroy the wiring.

easiest way to install the key is to get is set where you want it, make sure your seat still slides back and forth. And then run your power/ground over to the door sill and up to the battery. And run the speaker wires over to the center console and up behind the radio. Tuck the under the plastic and it’s very easy to get them routed up in the dash.

then buy parts

$12 71-1761 87-94 Toyota Vehicle Harness

71-1761

$8 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness Fits Select 1987-UP Toyota Vehicles Power + 4 Speaker (Packaging May Vary)

70-1761
And build a very basic t-harness. Can add some more details to this later. This will cost you $10 and make the install super easy and completely reversible. Will also give you the parts you need to add more amps later should you choose to

 

Thank you, I was trying to be lazy and not make the harness but I might as well.

 

You can build the harness on the kitchen counter,
Or lay upside down in the footwell with a flashlight trying to find 2 tiny wires in a connector with 38 other wires in it

to me, building the harness is the lazy way lol

 

I guess my laziness was not wanting to order them lol.

I got them ordered and reread the OPs post. So to clarify I’m using the white/white black and gray/gray black in the metra harness to tap into the front speakers. Should I run the blue remote wire to this as well or is it not needed?

 

If you have a few feet of spare wire laying around, I would go ahead and run it while you’re running the other wires. The blue wire on the hideaway harness is only like 2 feet long so it needs to be extended

 

Thank you for your help!

 

got it installed today, everything went perfect until I go to test it and it has no sound. Got a bad unit, my fault for buying an open box to save 120$. Went and got a new one and the girl did it as an even exchange. Plugged it in and it works.

 

Harness looks great! Wires at the amp look good too!

 

Is there any advantage/disadvantage in using a loc behind the stock head unit and running rca to the hideaways speaker wires vs just running speaker wire from a metra harness?

 

not really. electrically, either option does the exact same thing. it really just comes down to ease-of-install.

speaker wire could be easier to run because it doesn't have the bulky rca connectors on the end. it could also be cut to length to get a perfect length of wire, where rca cables would need to be a pre-determined length that might end up with a bundle of wire that's difficult to conceal later on.

rca's theoretically are going to have better noise shielding that speaker wire won't have.

overall, i'd call it a wash between the 2 methods. use what you got.

 

Perfect thank you
Loc with rca and then a rca to speaker wire is more expensive then harness and speaker wire so I just wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing something

 

What is the looped blue wire in the

$8 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness Fits Select 1987-UP Toyota Vehicles Power + 4 Speaker (Packaging May Vary)

70-1761?
I saw someone saying to pull one end of that out?

 

according to this, that is wires "h" and "i", there's 2 power antenna triggers



no reason to do anything with it really.

 

When soldering the speaker wires into the harness,
Is it both solid whites with the one solid white as one connection and then both white/black with the one white black? So 2 three way soldered connections. And same goes for the greys?
Also is there enough room to fish the wiring backwards, as in the subs harness end going into the front of the radio compartment and down?