Things that need to be done when replacing a clutch

Hello fellow First Generation Tacoma Junkies,

I am doing the research now on replacing the clutch on our 1999 Toyota Tacoma. Below is a list of things that I have listed that need to be done when replacing a clutch. Please give some input if I am missing anything on this list for this task. The vehicle is a 1999 Tacoma SR5 with the Toyota 5VZ-FE 3.4 V6 engine and a 5-speed R150F transmission. Please also give me advice on clutch manufacturers.

This truck has open differentials, and it never goes off the fire service roads when we do take it out to go fishing. It also pulls a small 15 foot Boston Whaler pretty regularly, which weighs in right around 1,550 pounds.

From the research that I have done, people speak pretty highly of the Aisin manufacturer.

Thank you in advance for all of your replies.

1. Replace Rear Main Crankshaft Seal
A. This is the round seal that is attached to the back side of the crankshaft


2. Replace or Resurface Fly Wheel
A. New Flywheel from Toyota is $686.13
B. New Generic Fly Wheels are all over the map as far as cost
C. Resurfacing existing Fly Wheel is about an hour of labor, which is
Usually about $115.00 to $150.00
D. Fly Wheels can be easily resurfaced as long as they are not damaged


3. Replace Pilot Bearing or Pilot Bushing
A. Toyota price is $8.65


4. Replace Clutch Disc

A. Toyota price is $127.01


5. Replace Pressure Plate

A. Toyota price is $127.32


6. Replace Clutch Release Fork

A. New Clutch Forks cost about $60.00


7. Replace Throw-Out Release Bearing

A. Toyota price is $145.30


8. Replace Clutch Pivot Ball

A. The Pivot Ball holds the Clutch Fork

B. Toyota price is $16.52


9. Replace Input Shaft Seal on the Transmission if needed


10. Replace Rear Output Shaft Seal on the Transfer Case if needed



11. Replace Transmission Center Mount

A. There is a plastic type bushing in the center


12. Clutch Kit Items

A. Pilot Bearing

B. Clutch Disc

C. Pressure Plate

D. Throw Out Release Bearing

 

I hear the new Aisin Clutch discs have plastic Springs

I only replace the rear main seal if it has started to leak.

Be very careful attempting to remove the pivot ball very easy to break the bell housing.

Any more the Quality of Clutch kits from every one has declined. Inspect and compare all the new and old parts .

All my clutches were done a few years ago.

Maybe new Hydraulics and Fly Wheel bolts.

With the cost of After Market Fly Wheels I have no vendors that turn fly wheels.

 

I used a LUK flywheel https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4698465&cc=1364723&pt=5348&jsn=9
and an EXEDY clutch kit https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2392450&cc=1364723&pt=1993&jsn=10
when I replaced my clutch four years ago. I've been happy with both, no issues.

 

Have you decided on what Clutch kit your going with yet??

 

I recently went through this with my Tacoma. Wrote up the process and all the parts/tools I used here:

Step-by-Step Clutch Replacement on 1st Gen Tacoma 5VZFE (also 4Runner, T-100, Tundra)

Was great to have a second set of hands for the process, just man-handling everything that comes out and re-aligning on the way back in; otherwise, a reasonably straight forward process. Just pay attention to alignment of the various components, and the torque order of the bolts.

As for the flywheel - I opted to get a new one, just so I didn't have downtime between getting the old out and new in (I was doing this on a Sunday), but if yours is in reasonable shape, resurfacing seems like the way to go (cost wise). I got my original resurfaced, and will use it for replacement next time.

While you're in there, I'd also replace the following:

• A new Toyota OEM Rear Main Seal (90311-A0027) - if the transmission is being separated from the engine anyway, now's a good time to replace the rear main engine seal. Often times, the original will be leaking slightly anyway.
• A Marlin Crawler Heavy Duty Shifter Seat & Socket - to replace the shifter seats for the transmission and transfer case shifters, since they had to be removed anyway.

​

 

It looks like you have everything covered and well researched.
The decision on whether to resurface or replace the flywheel should be somewhat/mostly dependent on the opinion of the machine shop doing the resurfacing, assuming you have an experienced, reputable machine shop available. They should be able to tell you if the flywheel is toast and to show you the reasons for their opinion. No sense in replacing a factory part with a questionable quality aftermarket part if the original part can be made to perform like new. You didn't mention the mileage on the engine/flywheel. That would help in narrowing down your choice as well.
With respect to the rear main seal, I agree that if shows no sign at all of leaking and everything is dry around it, leave it alone.

 

I did mine very recently, at 290k because the throw-out bearing was making a lot of noise. Followed the step-by-step clutch replacement guide on adventuretaco.
The original Aisin clutch still had plenty of life in it but I replaced it with new Aisin, stock flywheel was in very good shape and so was the main seal so I left it. The grease method worked well for the pilot bearing.

They mention using 40+ inches of extensions to get to the top bolts in the transmission, you can get by with less if you go from inside the truck, where the shifter was - just have someone below guide you in. You also don't have to completely disconnect the starter - just removed the two big bolts and push it out of the way. A transmission jack helped a lot, and don't forget to get gear oil for both the transmission and transfer case.

 

I used the same flywheel but I used a aisin clutch

 

Did you have any issues with the luk flywheel? I have read there were issues with the starter teeth not lining up and causing grinding noises with the luk flywheel.

 

lol funny you mention yes I did. I forgot about that. I thought my starter was dying and changed it and still had the issue. In hind sight I’d probably not use the luk and go resurface my old one

 

I sold the truck and forgot about that

 

Paul,
You are getting lots of good info above. I just did a full clutch job with R150F tranny rebuild on my '97 V6 Taco 4x4 this past summer. The OEM AISIN clutch was original from 1997 and still worked fine. But the original T/O bearing was pretty well used up. The new AISIN clutch is smoooooth! Over the past 25 years, I had forgotten how nice a new AISIN clutch feels. The clutch kit already has about 50 days of hard wheeling in deep mud/high water while hunting here in MS with no problems at all. If I were rock crawling, I may have gone with the EXEDY clutch kit from Rockauto because of the steel spring keepers VS the plastic keepers on the AISIN. The OEM replacement clutch disc offered by Toyota is rebuilt, not new. And the plastic spring cups on the Toyota replacement disc look to be the same as on the new AISIN disc. It would not surprise me if AISIN was rebuilding the clutch plates for Toyota. HTH and good luck. Gone hunting again!

Parts I used:

OEM rear main seal. The original was in very poor condition and came apart on me trying to remove it. They used different materials back then. It was not leaking but was near the end of its useful life IMO.

OEM JAPAN pilot bearing.

LUK flywheel. I closely inspected it before installation and the machining looked beautiful. No issues at all so I give it a thumbs up. Several years back, online pics of a LUK flywheel with problems showed obvious machining flaws on the ring teeth.

OEM flywheel bolts.

AISIN clutch kit came with new NSK JAPAN T/O bearing but the KOYO pilot bearing was not JAPAN marked. So I went with an OEM JAPAN pilot bearing for $6.

Marlin Crawler braided SS clutch line and 10.9 high grade pressure plate bolts.

AISIN clutch master and slave cylinders.

OEM clutch fork off Ebay was about $30 new.

New NipponDenso starter from Rockauto.

Marlin Crawler rebuilt the R150F tranny. The Tcase was still very serviceable, but I did replace the front and rear seals with OEM. OEM short magnetic drain plugs (90341-18021) were installed in both the R150F tranny and R100 Tcase.

AISIN clutch kit installed, ready to bolt up the R150F tranny:


Original NOK BH4392 rear main seal:


Original 1997 OEM Toyota clutch disc made by AISIN had steel spring keepers like the EXEDY, SECO, etc. :

 

When did this happen?

I had no issues but it was some time ago. No doubt longer then I think.

 

Not sure when, but I first read about it around 5 years ago when I did the clutch job on my old truck. Glad to hear others had no issues. Maybe it was just a bad batch. I opted to have my oem flywheel resurfaced and everything worked great.

 

+1 on resurfacing whenever there is a salvageable flywheel.

 

I kept my very serviceable original OEM flywheel to be properly resurfaced at a later date. But as previously stated, with the price of a new LUK flywheel being so low, there is virtually no market for resurfacing Toyota flywheels in my area. IIRC, I only paid $77 delivered for the new LUK flywheel. And finding a machine shop that knows how to properly machine the step on the OEM flywheel is a further problem.

 

The sad fact since the price of after market flywheels .rotors or drums is so cheap.

They can be replaced cheaper then turned.

Those places that did turn them years ago are pretty all gone in my area.

One needs to remember to most people the bottom line is cost not quality.

 

Thank you everybody for all of the useful information.

 

I did an OEM clutch at 150,000 miles. Now have a Marlin Crawler kit, braided clutch line, new OEM flywheel, Aisin slave and master cylinders and all new hardware waiting on the shelf. The OEM one just keeps kicking with over 200k miles on it.

I’ve been told the Marlin clutch is actually softer and has better hold. I do feel like the OEM is a bit heavy at times, especially on trails when your leg gets a little shaky

There was a great trick I learned years ago to get the old pilot bearing out by filling the cavity with grease and taking a bolt that’s close to the diameter of the center hole and smacking it in- the hydraulic pressure forces the bearing out. It’s a little messy but effective.

I’d always replace the rear main seal, cheap insurance vs leaving one with 150k miles installed. There’s RTV that goes at the intersection oil pan and the block, a lot of people recommend the Permatex Ultra Grey

OEM throw out bearing alway highly recommended.

 

I need you to have a P0420 code so you can do another one of your awesome write ups! Just kidding.....sort of.

What made you want, or need, to have yours rebuilt? How did it turn out and what was the turn around time?