Install Tips - BA4x4 Revo Rock Sliders

Just got my Revo sliders from Body Armor 4x4 installed yesterday. While there is plenty of info on this install out there already, I wanted to share a few tips and tricks for issues that I came across during the install. First off, I used the BA4x4 install sheet (https://cdn.bfldr.com/T4M9XMBZ/as/6gkw4z99vvv66k2px28rf37/TC-4125-INST) and the following video (https://youtu.be/FlrF0nBUMwU) as a guide. These two resources will get you most of the way there.


Before doing anything, remove the plastic caps from the frame rails near the front crossmember. I neglected to do this at first and had to take off the slider in order to remove. Forgot to take a photo of this but it’s pretty self explanatory.


Next I laid out all the hardware to ensure it’s all there. Everything was in check and I ended up with some other random grade 8 hardware. Tip 1 - The two longer 21mm bolts are for the very front mounting point on the frame rail. Also get yourself some blue loctite handy at this point.


Next, like the video says, start with the passenger side (as a warm up) and remove the 14mm rear crossmember bolt and hoist the slider into place. I did this by myself with two jack stands. Reinstall the 14mm to help hold everything in place while you get the other hardware installed. Tip 2 - use some foam or cardboard to protect your rocker panel if the slider rotates upward. I almost screwed myself when the slider slipped out of my hand and rotated upward when mocking it up.


Loosely install all the hardware. The front two bolts inside the frame rail can be a source of frustration. Keep small children away while you swear and curse, and keep a beer handy.


One of the center mounting points that uses the L bracket (as they call it in the video) is poorly designed. The bracket sits on the frame in an area where the frame rail is tapered. When you go to finish tighten this bolt, it will sit cockeyed and not flush against the slider. I left this bolt off because of this.


Once you get all the hardware loosely installed, start tightening from back to front. Tip 3 - Use a jack to lift up the slider flush against the frame before finish tightening.


Passenger side done! Now for the driver side….


This one was a bit tougher. Steps are essentially the same, but the brake lines and other components on the inner frame rail make it more challenging. You’ll have to remove the plastic clips for the wire loom on the outer frame rail and push the wire loom up out of the way. Tip 4 - Remove the 12mm bolt holding the brake line manifold and push it out of the way while you install the front mounting bolts, which helps a lot.


The front-center mounting point is obstructed by the electronics box on the inner frame rail, shown in pic above. Remove this with a 12mm via the nuts on the outer frame rail.


You’ll have to unclip the brake lines from the frame with a flathead in order to get the welded nuts in. After hoisting the slider into place and getting bolts started (one by the fuel tank can be pesky), tighten back to front again using the jack to hold flush in place.


You’ll notice that the welded nuts on the inner frame rail are contacting the brake lines. Don’t ignore this! In my personal opinion, brakes are somewhat important so I spent some extra time here. Tip 5 - I used some poly 3/8” water line from my jet ski toolbox to make some shields where there was metal on metal contact. You don’t want the brake lines touching each other or any other metal, so add shielding anywhere where this is occurring. Re-clip the brake lines in place and reinstall the electrical box unit.


Finally, reinstall the wire loom clip on the outer frame rail. You’ll only be able to get the rear one, so use some extra loom to cover the wiring where it crosses over the slider triangulation.


Double-triple check tightness on everything, and you’re done! This took me about 4hrs with struggles, mistakes and pitfalls. Your results may vary. I just wanted to make a post about this to fill in the gaps in other install instructions, in case it’s helpful for others.

Overall review after install, it’s a great product for a bolt on. Some fit and finish issues but nothing that makes me regret my purchase. I like tube sliders because they are a great lift point for a hi lift jack and they are cheap insurance against rock strikes. Now to go bottom my truck out on some rock shelfs!

 

You Need to get one of @Shmellmopwho Slider Hi-Lift adapters before you raise your truck on soft uneven surfaces and the lift slips on the slider! https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/shmellfab-hi-lift-slider-adapters.666092/

 

Awesome thanks, didn't know these existed! Will definitely be ordering one, I have definitely had some close calls in the past with the sliders on my old truck.

 

I want to express my thanks for this write up. I was/am having a difficult time getting the driver side, and my frustration was getting the better of me. I'm a bit pissed that Body Armor does not mention anything about getting the brake lines out of the way. And Xtreme Terrain of course only shows the passenger side, which is straightforward. I have one lingering question for you. The front leading edge of the slider is touching another metal piece under the body. I have enough bolts in an tightened to see if it would pull the slider into a correct position, but no dice. I'm installing by myself which does make positioning the slider difficult, but while the bolts were loose I did try to move the bar ever so slightly to avoid contact, to no avail. I'll add a picture to better illustrate.


Any ideas? Maybe as you stated, once I get ALL the bolts in loosely, I'll tighten systematically from rear to front? THANK YOU again!

 

@Time To Taco - I’m glad you found my write up useful! I do not recall having a clearance issue at the front, but I will double check. Is that driver side? Maybe try sliding the whole slider as far back as you can before tightening. The bolt holes are slightly oversized so you may have some wiggle room there.

 

A really excellent post! I wish I had found it before I spent a good 4 hours myself yesterday installing mine.

Pretty much everything you pointed out I ran into too. My 2023 also had these plastic caps at the front I had to remove and with the arm of the front plate angled off the frame I’m not sure I can get them back on.

I also found I had some difficulty with the fit on the passenger side at the front and took me a while to get it right. Driver side went much smoother even with the brake lines and other obstacles.

Overall I like the look and design of them and budget wise give me some piece of mind on the trail protecting the panels.

 

I appreciate this write up

 

Great write up... This info will definitely help myself tackling the project alone.

 

I just got my butt kicked by these for 3 hours. They are back to sitting in the box in my garage until my next attempt.
That long hardware piece with the welded nuts was giving me fits trying to get the bolts to go in. Also, my kit didn’t come with the two 21mm long bolts you have circled and aren’t listed on the packing list, nor did I see them in the video.

 

you and I both, I attempted these last weekend after a quick search and no real install instructions regarding the brake lines and that little ECU looking device on the driver side frame rail. I'm laughing at myself because I told my wife I'd be an hour or so installing these and it was nearly the entire afternoon. I was able to get it all done myself with a jack and a jack stand. My kit also didn't come with those large bolts either, not sure where those would even go.

Anyways mine are on and they look great. Hopefully everyone else who attempts finds this thread first! I even went to the store to get some fuel line tubing to put over the brake lines like OP did near the bolts in case the lines rub near the nuts.

 

I’m halfway through install on a set of these myself (passenger side done). Did you guys put a bolt through the cross member in the front? Looks like that is kind of in their instructions but I see people not adding it.

 

Are you referring to this piece? The front part the has the bolt going up into the frame crossbar. I attached the picture from the original post, not my picture.

 

the inside of my frame has a weld or something between the two bolts and I struggled with them for so long. I could get one or the other but not both. Ultimately, I had to leave the locking washer off one of them to have enough bolt length to get it.

not looking forward to doing that again on the drivers side, hopefully tomorrow. If anyone has any tips let me know!

 

yes, the bolt below where the Jack is positioned. I don’t see how to get one of the backing plates in there if I didn’t do it prior to positioning the slider?

 

you have to kinda weasel the backing plate back up and into that hole and then hold it there while you thread the bolt in. I'm not sure if its required, but it would be ideal to have the additional mounting part.

 

for the drivers side I’ll put that into the frame before positioning the slider, definitely not taking this one off to do it if I can’t get the backing plate in another way. I’ll use another nut and washer on the inside of the frame there if needed.

 

yep I should've mentioned to put that backing plate nut in there before you position the slider up there. Otherwise the hole is covered up with the slider plate. I tried finding a video but I can't seem to find anything, I used one of those magnetic parts holders to maneuver it within the frame rail so I could get the bolt started. Not easy because access is limited but it is doable.

 

yes, unfortunately, I did not put that into the frame before positioning and bolting up the slider on the passenger side. I did get it in position for the driver side this morning and got that bolt in no problem, so thanks for the heads up!

 

Thanks to everyone in this thread for the knowledge shared! Some learnings for the next person who attempts this.

1. put the nut into the front cross member before positioning the slider.

2. the “s” bracket will not actually contact the frame with a spacer. Don’t follow the video on this! The instructions from body armor are actually correct in this area.


pic shows L bracket correct and S bracket not contacting frame.

3. the “L” bracket is where the spacer should go, it allows the bracket to sit level with the frame and grab onto the tapered portion of the frame still.

4. If your frame is like mine, the front bracket has a something sticking out between the bolt holes which is what makes the front bolts so challenging. Do the farthest forward one first so you can use the leverage of the handle on that long double bolt bracket for leverage to flex it back toward the bolt hole.

notice the vertical metal piece between the bolt holes

5. I didn’t find it that challenging holding the long bracket for the passenger side in position to line up the bolts, but the driver side is another story. Used a screwdriver and a wrench weighing it down to hold it in position via the rear bolt so I could adjust just up/down and line up the front bolt hole.




And lastly, give yourself more time for this than you expect. it can be done alone, it would’ve been easier with a buddy.

 

couldn't have said it better myself, sorry I couldn't provide pictures. I was struggling without any instructions before I found this thread. you're correct on that spacers with the L bracket, I skipped that because it didn't even hold onto the frame with the spacer. Definitely a few hour install, I thought it would be quick, but I was alone and an extra set of hands would've been super helpful.