Crunchy Taco? - 1st gen on 35s BS

Welp, the exhaust hardware is loose again. It uses 10mm fasteners but I couldn't find a M10x3" long hardware kit from Stage 8 catalog. I'll check again before I order but that 3/8 set is my best shot. Also poked at it and it looks like with some swivels and luck the annoying placement can be tightened from the driver side across the back of the engine.

Slapped in the auxbeam projectors. The pattern isn't great but for $50 ea it's still a pretty damn good deal. Auxbeam on the left, e code H4 housing on the right.




Both Auxbeams High beams

 

I feel your pain chasing exhaust leaks

 

you know i knew damn well $250 ebay headers were not gonna work better than a $90 junkyard manifold but I lied to myself and did it anyways

 

Could always cut off the flanges and weld on a better connection point at that spot

 

It's come up a few times. In my laziness I'm wasting time and effort on half-ass solutions instead

 

You never know. Sometimes those half ass solutions pan out. You get lucky every now and then!

 

That's enabling behavior!

 

The problem is that after 10 years of doing 30 minute bandaid and trail fixes to keep it together enough to keep wheeling the truck needs one of everything

 

Never saw that type of fastener, give it a try-

 

I'm thinking worst case they loosen up a little bit and rattle but can't fall out anymore lol

 

I suspect it could be exaggerated by the exhaust vibrating, I'm planning to weld in another hanger after the cat and one near the tailpipe. It's currently connected with universal strap hangers which allow too much flex.

 

If the issue is the hardware not staying tight, why not try a stover nut or something. Look at McMasters catalog. There's tons of different nuts that are designed to not come loose under different conditions

 

When wheeling, frames do flex & exhaust system is unlucky. Hope you find the unique & different way to fix, keep posting the perspective ways of losses & finally... Success!

 

Fwiw I had to stack gaskets by my cat to get the flange to stop leaking, I also drilled the studs out and installed bolts. I also think you are in the right track with the hangars, I had no more leaks until I chopped and raised my muffler in the summer. When I would be crawling up rock gardens in voluble low the CEL would kick on due to the motor torque pulling the exhaust apart and causing a small leak.

 

I think I did the same as you on the downpipe to cat connection. This crossover connection is a ball socket so no gasket, that probably is part of the issue

 

Ahh that sucks!

 

Swapped out the CV with the torn boot for one of my OEM spares. It probably needs to be rebooted long term because I don't expect the OEM boots to hold out forever but hey, quick fix for now. I ended up having to pull the hub body apart when installing the new CV. I had put it together wrong in my haste last time

The Gzilla CV removal tool is handy. No need to try and stick a prybar in there to yank the CV out with the skid installed.



Poking away at other odds and ends. I begrudgingly dropped the skid plate afterwards since I'm due for a diff oil change. I forgot how I filled it last time but a hand pump ain't it for the 85W140 ECGS prescribes.

Also noticed my super custom and totally awesome ARB twin mount ripped off the inner fender so I'll need to rework that too. It was supposed to just be a quick fix for a Moab trip that never got reworked so it's not entirely a surprise

 

the hand pump works for me for the 85w140, but it's definitely a bitch. Helps to warm up the oil under some hot water beforehand too.

Previously I was able to take a piece of long tubing and run it through the engine bay into the diff fill plug and then just pour the fluid down the tube, but that ended up being pretty messy and got diff fluid in places I didn't want

 

Never heard of the Gzilla thing before, had to google and that's a pretty ingenious idea!