3.4L supercharger

I'm running a Stainless JBA cat back. Cali legal? don't know

 

Also you listed 2 leaking into crankcase and not into 4, but 4 leaking into 2. If 4 is leaking into 2 then 2 would have to leak into 4.

 

I think I have have a 2.2 or two but can't check until I get back home mid December.

 

What single A pillar gauge pod mount are people using? I got the gloshift universal one and it fits like poo and I don't want to hack it up and try to mold the plastic. Is there a better direct-ish fitting one?

for a 98-00 body since I think the pillars are different on the 01-04s

 

Yeah, I thought about that too. I wondered if there could be a crack in the each head which causes that leak to happen while 3 and 4 are at TDC but 1 and 2 have open valves. Or is that not where I would hear the leak? It makes sense to me that if 3 and 4 had a similar issue, 1 and 2 would be in the same part of their valve cycle while 3 and 4 were each at their TDC compression.

While setting up for each cylinder, I had a small amount of pressure going into the cylinder. You can very clearly hear the air moving from the exhaust, then the throttle body before closing up. Then finding the top of the stroke was a matter of rotating the crank until there was no back pressure on the ratchet. My thinking being the valves should be fully closed for the majority of the compression and the power stroke, so even if the piston was outside of TDC by a fraction, it would still return accurate test results. Any thoughts or critiques welcome!

 

I used this one from Auto Meter on my '02.

Didn't realize the plastic molding was different between model years aside from whether or not an Oh Shit handle was present. Mine has that handle.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...5-XLEYj4_NRkWz4j-pQBsona7-gu8Z9gwQ75yyCnbYCnw

 

Thanks for the link. Looks like Autometer does make one for my year of taco

https://www.autometer.com/2-1-16-toyota-tacoma-95-98-4-runner-96-98-single-pod.html

 

What are you using to listen for air sound? Open ears? I always use a engine stethoscope and pull off the listening attachment and use the open hose to listen in intake, exhaust and oil cap hole.

 

Yeah, open ears. I used my hand to cover/uncover the various ports/openings to modulate the sound and confirm where it’s coming from.

Of COURSE HF sells a stethoscope. Thank you for the link. I will definitely pick one up.

 

What gears is everyone running?
I'm thinking 4.56 will pair up nice with the Supercharger and it'll help with the steel bumpers and 33s

 

34” tires. 4.56 gears. 5-speed. 3.4 supercharged. Steel bumpers front and back. Haltech ECU. Feels really peppy. I would not want it geared lower.

 

33" tires. 4.88 gears. Auto trans. SC v6 w/haltech. 5800# when loaded up for an adventure. Love it.

 

How’s it drive on the highway?

 

So awesome thread ,I'm on page 71.
Is there cliff notes somewhere? Or suggested reading?
Best place for sending SC for a rebuild ,
Best place to send injectors
Are ik22 still the plugs to go with and what gap
Which belt is recommended? Stock pulley
Best place for wideband installation, I understand befor the cat . But on the manifold, and is there a recommended orientation?

I price I got the sc is worth it to send for a rebuild also unknown miles, but it was working last I heard it.
Trying to keep it pretty basic , I have a 7th injection kit I'd rather not install, and i can't go with a stand alone because I still have to go through emissions. I did pick up the upgraded FPR.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

If you have the FMU to increase fuel pressure you could probably just pick up the AFRcal from URD. That will allow you to increase AFR in closed loop which you’ll definitely want.

FYI. You need a bigger fuel pump especially since you have the FMU. As fuel pressure rises (which the FMU is doing) fuel flow from the pump is reduced and can be significant depending on boost level and rate of gain on the FMU.

 

for injector cleaning, I'd send them to https://www.witchhunter.com/

The NGK Ruthenium HX spark plugs are good ones to run. Do a couple steps colder than the stock spec. FR7BHX-S are what I run. Gap set to .020 for my 3rz w/ high boost.

Not sure on the 3.4 where to install on exhaust, but look at @1997tacomav6 build. Remember seeing a picture of his somewhere else. Placement is between 9 and 3 o'clock position on the pipe.

 

Anytime you want to look over my install your welcome to.

 

Maybe a 170° thermostat.

 

1) Jon bond for rebuild
2) motor west in California 125.00 for rebuild injectors
3) NGK Ruthenium, gap depending on your pulley, but these are pre gap
4) gates supercharger belt,
5) 02 sensor depending on the year, early 3.4 has one cat later have two cats
6) you should get a high flow fuel pump,
7) new fuel filter
8) 170 Corolla stat
9) Vortech FMU from https://snpspeed.com/all-go-fast-products/ols/products/fmu-fuel-pressure-multiplier
I ran the AEM 340 pump with the FMU with stock ECU stock injectors with no issues with 2” pulley at 6000 feet,
You need the high flow pump for volume,
The stock fuel regulator opens at 42 psi keeping the pressure at 42. NGK Ruthenium
The FMU will increase the pressure above the stock 42 psi per pound of boost.
There is a photo below showing how the FMU will change the fuel pressure stock from 43 to 70 and the new flow rate but needs a higher volume fuel pump to make that happen.
So the stock injector that stays at 43psi is a 270cc flow but the FMU will change that pressure up to 70psi and becomes a 350cc injector.
It’s a 3:1 rise rate per pound of boost.
The FMU is what controls the pressure not the fuel pump.
Fuel pump controls the amount of flow,
This you tube explains it,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IOenq3XCv4g

 

If you are looking for a summary, just review all of the posts by 1997tacomav6 in this thread and others. He has done more than the vast majority of Taco owners and documented the options very well. With 700,000+ miles on his rig, you can be confident he has figured out what works and is reliable. See his post just above.

For supercharge rebuilds - jonbondperformance.com
Jon does very good work, but since most competitors don't, he's now overworked and I waited just over 4 months to get my rebuild back... It was very well done, but you'll have to wait in line...

As far as fuel upgrades go, upgrading the fuel pump can provide higher constant pressure feeding the regulator and some have said it eliminates the need for the 7th injector, particularly when coupled with the larger injector capacity options. There are recent posts in the thread on this option. Some use the AEM pump. I'd suggest the Denso fuel pump used in the mid-90s TT Supra which has comparable volume/pressure and OEM reliability.