TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Thanks for the info fellas. I am not running the hydro tob, just a stock style one. Mine seems consistently at the top of the pedal though. I think I will leave things alone for now

 

To confirm, my experience mirrors yours - I never replaced the stock TOB and my clutch engagement was/is consistently near top of the pedal.

My son's 2010 is only slightly better, even after replacing both the master and slave cylinders. (He has NOT removed his accumulator but, again, removing mine did NOT change engagement.)

Pretty sure high clutch engagement is a 2nd Gen "feature"... It's not scientific but, my son worked at Discount Tire thru high school and college, pulling LOTS of vehicles in/out of the bays. He recalls all 6MT Tacomas he drove having similarly high clutch engagement.

 

I hate my friends 2011 TRD Sport 6spd clutch… From the floor to like 95% out the pedal does nothing and then it starts the very light engagement there. Truck is completely stock and as far as I know original clutch and related parts with like 110k miles on it when I drove it. Glad I borrowed it for a few days because it confirmed that I did not want my own 2nd gen manual.

 

While I wish the engagement point was lower, I'd buy mine again. Death before A/T!

 

I used to think that. All but 3 of the vehicles I have owned have been manual transmission - Ranger, Integra, Jetta, Outback. The 3 autos: 1966 Caprice, 2003 Tacoma, and current 2015 Tacoma. For my uses, auto is preferred. My partners RAV4 Prime has solidified the nice drivability of an automatic and is faster than the Tacoma off the line (but the Tacoma keeps pulling hard into the triple digits, unlike the Prime).

 

We've never owned an A/T. Every vehicle we have/had has three pedals. Most pull(ed) nicely to triple digits. A few pull well-beyond...

 

Eek!

 

Here's the thing with the accumulator: it did it's job. And by doing it's intended purpose, it made clutch engagements slightly different for me. Sometimes I would need a lot of engagement in first, like taking off from a stop in a left hand turn lane across traffic and the accumulator would make it feel like I had slippage or wouldn't allow me to 'dump' the clutch. Other times I needed very little engagement, such as moving forward in a traffic jam, and the accumulator would impede that. The accumulator is there to smooth out all engagements across the board. They are especially helpful in high load hydraulic applications like in a front loader, or a skid steer bucket where the operator might not be the smoothest and slamming weight around will damage the system. Removing mine for how I drive made sense. If you like how your clutch feels, then leave it in.

 

I too like to live my life 1/4 mile at a time.

 

cuz family

 

My speedo tops out at 130 so who knows how fast my tacos gone.

 

I think if I was to hit 130 on my Taco I'd probably just spontaneously roll over without warning.

 

Mine is too. Racing clutch, hydro bearing, accumulator delete. So now that I think about it, not a great comparison. The threads on my master cylinder adjustment are also cross threaded, so it's stuck where it is for now.

 

I ain't never snitched on nobody!!

 

They got deep pockets?

 

You had one job thefang! (Fixed that for you)

 

Time for a digital dash upgrade with gps speedo.

 

Oh wow. I messed that up bad!

 

I've only ever gone 125 :sulk: But that's 200 in Canadian, so it feels way faster.

Edit: if you don't count the dyno. The needle was pinned. And yes, I drove my own truck on the dyno. Was a blast.

 

Well.. looks like I'm replacing the engine tensioner after all... Bolt snapped as I was torquing it back down. 27ftlbs per OEM spec.. tested it at 10ftlbs prior to make sure.. clicked no problem. Then ramped up to 27ftlbs.. 2 cranks later it snapped.