Long Travel BS Thread

Correct, the only changes made from the factory valving was reducing 2 15's to 8s with the theory/suggestion of getting the droop to catch up at speed. I should get an idea of how this pans out this weekend, have only done some urban tests near my local airport's big dips. Its leaps and bounds better than original from what I have felt thus far, but still pretty damn plush. I assume the higher speed stuff will continue to be an issue.

As far as tearing it apart 8 times in a weekend, thats awesome and for sure the way to go, but unfortunately that will have to be stretched out over the course of a couple months. Instant satisfaction would be great, but mine will have to be a work in progress.

 

To be honest, going down to 8’s wasn’t the right move.

starting with the biggest, try going 10,10,12,12,15,15 on rebound. See how that goes for you.

On compression if it’s too soft I would try a stack of straight 15’s to see if it improves. If it’s still too soft go to 20’s on the 2 biggest.

 

That sounds fair, and hence why I posted. Being that I'm only going off my neighbors knowledge and the little I know, I am open to all constructive criticism. Obviously a midtravel setup with potentially drastic different curb weight, a lot of variables inbetween me and a LT setup.

I am currently on Camburg's list to have their Trail Series +2" setup (basically a faux LT-- utilizes midtravel shocks for 13" of travel) installed sometime in March, but since rebuilding these fronts, I see the huge benefit of spending the extra cash and go full LT with bypasses. So I am most likely furloughing the Trail Series and saving some more to go all the way.

 

Their race kit is only an extra inch. So that’s pretty good. I was curious when you said 13” since that’s what my LT kit is. Was surprised when the +2” was the same.

 

Yeah that’s what they are claiming

 

Bleed is the amount of fluid you allow to bypass the main piston & valving. This effects both circuits in the shock (compression & rebound). Typically bleed is created by holes drilled in the main piston.

Im going to assume you have two bleed holes open, probably in the realm of .098” holes but if may vary slightly per manufacturer.

What you’re likely going to run into is trying to find the balance of ride quality and damping control for harder hits. Pursing increased damping for whoops, etc will typically create harshness is other areas, assuming you’re intending to daily or street drive this truck. Finding a balance is tricky when using a single shock and no bypass technology of any sort. That’s what you’re trying to achieve by running a flutter, which creates other unwanted characteristics.

@906taco brings up a valid point though about harsh top outs with an MT setup. This is common due to the limitation of travel. Just something to be aware of. You’ve already increased spring rate & preload which will already generate more force. You may want to consider adding limit straps

 

Flutters are supposed to help with the small chatter, correct? What are the unwanted affects?

 

Is 0.098” really the common size for bleed holes? I couldn’t find this info anywhere when I drilled mine. I used 0.070” (number 50 I think) and it was bigger than the stock single bleed that was there.

 

Yes. .098 is the size of the factory king bleeds for coilovers. The bypasses I believe are a single .060 or so.

Flutter can hurt high speed valving by allowing too much flow.

Bleed, done right will have very negligible impact on the high speed.

As mid travel, I had my best luck with all 3 bleeds open and I do believe that’s how they come from king. But again it varies for everybody.

 

Yes, standard bleed in a Fox 2.5"+ C/O or similar shock is 2x .098" bleed holes. Bypass are 1x.052".

Pretty much this. A flutter can induce too much flow and cause you to blow through too much travel. You can play with the valves to make it work for the purpose but nothing comes without a cost. I've had luck with flutters when it comes to ride quality in a single shock.

 

Big thing is, the thickness of the shims aren’t the only variable in tuning.

Overall stack height plays a big roll as well. It dictates how much the shims can actually open. Especially on the compression side since there is a backer plate.

Bleed is used for fine tuning small chop and really only functions on low speed or small movement like washboard. On the high speed side, you’re going to direct more through the piston and valving since bleed holes can only flow so much.

For mid travel, I had tremendous luck with a rate plate setup and lots of bleed. But again; it takes time. Rate plates can be challenging.

 

How would you increase bleed on the piston? Are you essentially fabricating it or sourcing a new piston altogether?

Side note... I am surprised that I cant find any info on what stacks Accutune is utilizing. I am going to do my rear shocks (recently purchased from Accutune) to stiffen them up but would like to know what they utilize prior to popping them open. I understand that they wouldnt advertise it to keep it somewhat proprietary, but I know I am not the first to open these up.

 

It takes a lot of time and development to come up with a valve code that works. Companies that are in the business of doing just this aren't going to disclose their valving codes for everyone to copy as they have a lot of time invested into the process. You can of course take the shock apart and spec the valving, but not everyone has that capability, time, or desire.

 

Drill more holes in piston or enlarge current ones - increase bleed.

Hole example. Little one on the left. I wanted to see how it changed the ride so I drilled a few new ones for the rear. Not too difficult to “undo” if it’s too much.


Edit: that photo was way too long.

 

You should have 3 holes already in your shocks. They should be tapped for a .050 screw. Bypass pistons typically only have one small bleed hole. But you can always get a numerical drill set and play with adding more of different sizes.

 

Good to know, I just so happen to have snapped a photo of my front CO and it helps to know what I’m looking at now— thanks to all

 

For those of you that have tubbed wheel wells but still use the factory coil buckets, which happens first at full uptravel - coilover bottoms out or cv bind? I know cv bind is an issue with down travel but I don’t think I’ve ever read that with uptravel.

I ask because when I redo my wheel wells I’m also going to move my bumps up a bit because when I set it up before I set the bumps right before the upper arm hit the wheel well. I know I still had some shock travel left.

Second reason if you do get cv bind at the top, I want to eventually get some JD fab axles that allow more cv angle. So I need to know if I should leave some adjustment with the bump can in anticipation of those. I’m getting sick of cutting stuff off and moving it.

 

To be honest, I don't recall checking CV bind at bump but I may have. I've never heard of it being an issue.

I also gained some up travel when I added hydro bumps though and have ran the truck hard a few times without issue. I'd say it passed the check.

 

Depends on your coilover and LT setup, but on stock width i was binding right at full bump. This was rubber bump removed and LCA to metal bump pad.

 

Yeah when I did mine checking cv bind at the top didn’t even cross my mind for some reason.

Normally I’d just check when I do it but I’m one of the stupid ones that builds their daily. So I am debating on ordering some adjustable cans just in case.