bike build

although once I remap I will smoke 750's. I am looking at a 15-20 percent increase with the map I am making

 

Suspension? Or getting the suspension dialed in?
I know just changing the factory settings on mine from touring/commuting to sport made a big difference. I'm getting ready to order some new springs and fork valves from Race Tech to compensate for my heavy @ss.

 

Not if it's a 750 like mine . Bmc race filter, PC3, full exhaust, set valve disabled, 139 Rwhp on a custom map. Crappy cell phone pic.

 

I see a few posts back that you asked about steel braided lines. I have both a gsxr 600 and 750 and got a complete braided kit for the 600 first. Put them on and they act/respond way quicker then the rubber lines. so much so that i removed the fronts and just keep the rear. I use rear way more then front and found it eaiser the apply pressure to rear with braided line. front grabbed way quick and held strong and ripping thru streets and not on a track made it sketchy. I did put Braking brand front and rear rotors on and that was way nicer too. Just my opion but do rear first see how u like it.

Both my bikes are in my gallery. blue is 600, burg is 750

 

Nice 750 man. What cage is that

 

They're powers stuntworx racerails. I've got Galfer stainless lines front and rear on it and would never go back to stock. I've got shorty levers with 6 way adjusters. I agree it takes a little bit of getting used to, but once you get used to the feel it's way nicer. My stock lines might actually have been expanded a little since they had 14k on them.

 

yep gaffers are what I ordered, heard only great things about them. I am stoked to get them in, stoppies should be easier from what I am told. The breaking will be more consistant. How was the install

 

Install is really simple, but I work on cars all day every day. Just bleed the brakes really well and you're golden. Be careful not to get brake fluid on any of the plastics.

 

i also switched out the stock levers for shorty asv's and the top tripple tree to solid yani big difference in feel. my 600 only has about 3k miles so the lines were probably still real good not all mushy. i had to switch out the 750 to steel due to the 9" swing arm extentions. it's real easy to switch out the lines. get a pump or air op bleeder to re bleed lines, piece of cake that way. i went 1 down 2 up on 600 and just 1 down on 750. mapped pwr commanders on both. the 750 is silly fast. have no problem keeping up with R1's.

oh yeah switch out ur throttle tube with a R1 and it'll be 1/4 turn way faster responce.

 

good input gentlemen. I am saving for an 1198 but until then why dont we turn this into the ultimate 600 build thread. I have ideas and money to piss away lets see what you guys have for mods

 

changed out stock orange to white & blue and added 6k hid's to both bikes, way better



.

 

What'd you have to do to change the tach and speedo colors? Just Led's or what? Looks great!

 

Sick bike.

 

my rear brake line just came in. The fronts are on back order. I ordered blue but they came in black, I dont feel like waiting a month so black it is I suppose.



Ill be installing tommorrow and will do a write up

 

ok, so here is my write up/how to on my new Galfer steel rear break line. Before I go any further I will state I have never installed this before. Any additional tips from anyone would be great. Also if I effed something up feel free to put it out. I will go over the install then the how-to-bleed the breaks part last.

First you have to take off the old break line. FIRST COVER ALL PAINTED AREAS< YOU WILL SPILL FLUID. That being said I decided to take the line off the rear caliber first. Reason being I could then direct the fluid in a bucket. It worked well. To remove from the rear caliber just remove the bolt in the pic below



and here is another pic after the bolt is removed with the stock line hanging



Ok now that the line is out of the rear caliber it is time to remove it from the rear set (brake pedal) It is the same, one bolt. This time there should not be alot of fluid to leak out. Below is a few pics of removing the line from the rear set.



Good job the stock break line is now disconnected. It is, however still connected on the bike by two clips. One clip you just pop off the second you have to unbolt, below is a pic of both clips and a wrench attache to what you have to unbolt.



now you have the break line off. Peel off the below pictured hardware (you will reuse it) and get ready to start the instalation





ok, starting with the rear set simply use the two washers and bolt supplied and bolt on the new breakline (the rear set side will be labeled master cylnder)



next do the rear caliber



tourque to spec.

OK Now it is time for the bullshit of bleeding the breaks. Before we begin I suggest buying a tool that allows you to fill the lines though the bleeder valve. Its like 20 bucks and makes life easy and way less messy. I did not and regret it. That being said this is how to do it with no special tools. Also here is the GSXR book and helps too. http://www.servicemanualsgsxr.com/

OK first you need to locate the rear master cylinder here is where it is



if you see the shiny bolt in the opening of the frame that is it. That being said the bolt is easy to remove and then you can pull the master cylnider out and work with it easier



next locate your bleeder valve, it has a rubber cap on it, remove cap, put a wrench on it and get ready to make a mess.



Ok for bleeding without the bleeder pump I suggested buying you open the master cylinder and fill it up. Pump the rear break quickly a few times until you fill preasure then hold down the break. While pushing down on the break open the bleeder valve slowly. Fluid and air should ooze out. CLOSE VALVE BEFORE RELEASING BREAK. Do this until no air is in the line (took me 20 mins and about 50 times) Next refill master cylinder and do it again a few more times (this builds preassure in the system. Prior to putting everything togeather go for a test ride make sure you are good then bolt the line back down with the clips you saved from the stock lines. The stock lines was bigger but the clips work none the less. Lastly bolt the master cylinder back under the subframe. You are done!!

 

hopefully next weekend I will be able to install the front, a steering damper and power commander. Then the how to tune on a dyno write up. Hope this helps someone


edit: 500 woot woot

 

NEW PARTS JUST CAME IN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

GPR stearing damper and my front brake lines plus a one way brake bleeder, now bleeding the brakes wont be a horrible pain in the ass

 

ok so here are the front break lines

There are a few tricks I figured out that would of been nice to know from the start so I will include them in this write up.

First step is to cover the bike so as not to get brake fluid on your plastics. Next you have to disconnect you stock lines. I started at the master cynilder and poped off that line first. Below is a pic of where the lines hook in below the master clynder



next I disconnected from the right side of the bike. The stock lines have a double flange here that run to the left side as well.

after that I disconnected the left side.


once all the lines are disconnected you still have 3 clips to undo to free the lines from the bike. there is a clip on the right side of the fender, one on the frame and one that is a pain in the ass on the top of the fender. I dont have a pic of the right side clip but it is very obvious. below is a pic of the clip of the center fender clip it is the only one that is difficult to take off




I found it easier just to take off the front fender as there wasnt enough room to get under it



as you can see now it is easy to take the stock line off.


Ok all lines off and all clips have been saved to rerun the new lines. This part is easy. Only a few things to know, first the directions say you have to take a peice of plastic off your bike right below the triple tree. THIS IS BULLSHIT. leave it on. I fought with it for about 20 mins befor saying fuck it and I had no issues. Second you double flange is now going to be out of the master cylinder not the right calerber and third short line goes right, long line goes left. That being said first hook up both lines from the master cylnider. It goes washer, right line washer left line, washer. Bolt that bitch in.




now that you two lines are installed I found it eaisest to install the clip right below the triple tree because the fender is still out and you have room to work



now pull all of your lines to the right and reinstall you fender. Now that this is do e bolt on your right side line and clip it in the previously discussed clip. do the same with the left side line clipping it in the center fender clip (the pain in the ass clip pictured about)

BOOM done now just have to bleed the brakes. The fronts take a little longer as they have three easy to find bleeder valves. one is on the brake leaver and the other are on each calaber. Same as before pump the hand brake to build preasure, then I started on the right side releaseing the valve. I then went to the left side and finally the hand set. After I did the hand set I redid the calbers. All in all it took 20 min. I did but a bleeder tool for 20 bucks, you hook it up to the valve and it allows fluid out but no air in. The thing is awesome. just hook it up and pump the brake.


and now go ride. hope this helps and that the spelling wasnt to bad, not that I care. Next up is the stearing damper install some time tonight

 

if i were to have a "pretty" bike i'd ride a gsxr 750. sick as hell street bikes... but for now i rock the stunt bike on the streets 00 cbr 600

 

ok here is a GPR steering damper install write up.

Shit is stupid easy but before you begin run out and buy a 36mm socket.


reason being you have to take off the center bolt of your triple tree (I used the stock wrench) but then you put on a braket only a socket will fit into. Just suck it up and spend 20 fucking dollars on the socket from the get go it is easier.

ok now you are pissed because you spent 3 hours looking all over the place for a cartoonishly big socket (sears btw is the only place I found and I hate sears) found it bought it and ready to go.

First take of the 1 1/2is (36 mm) bolt in the center of your triple tree, place the provided bracket over it and tourque down to spec. Now take out you fuel tank bolt and place the other bracket with provided bolt there.



two notes about this, first do not tighten anything yet you need some wiggle room to line up the dampener. And to the top bracket is upside down in the above pic

Next take an allen key and remove the two plugs in the top bracket then screw in the damper



now that everthing is lined up go ahead and tighten it all down and you are done