Anything welding

While do not use mine all the time, I do get to use more than I thought I would

 

Picture of my roughed in (homely, tacky looking wood blocks) DIY air dryer. Completed and tested yesterday. I'm not the first guy to try this method, but everybody seems to make them a bit differently.

I say roughed in because I am strongly considering mounting my air tank on horizontally on the wall and adding a second tank below it when I really get going with the CNC stuff.

Also, I MAY move the entire cooler system to after the tank, not before as I have it now, so I wanted to just get it on the wall and try it. The "before or after the tank" controversy rages on some websites. I wanted to try before, but with open mind to move to after. I may also add one of these at some point if needed: First change is likely to be move the water trap/regulator down below the AT cooler outlet level. See how the trap is about center of the cooler. The risk there is water ponding in the cooler and creating back pressure to the compressor. I knew of this risk but I wanted to try it up high to lessen accidental damage. I did detect some back pressure (compressor tone/RPM) in the trial. Motor ran cool, but I don't like that risk. Today I am going to open the cooler outlet fitting slightly and check for water ponding. If I still feel there is back pressure after addressing anything there, I will likely go to the after-tank configuration.

Wondering how it worked? It was 45F yesterday, so I had my garage doors open. From that starting point of 45F, my compressor reach about 185F in one cycle (tank was empty at start). That may have dropped a few degrees before entering AT cooler. Outlet port of AT cooler was at 65F. Obviously, a huge difference in water bearing capability.

Other considerations:

PEX vs copper. Another hot topic elsewhere. Apparently PEX and copper are much closer than expected with heat absorption. Its' PEX ability to shed heat where internet cowboys and Indians start firing at each other.

I wired the fan to one leg of the motor supply so it kicks on and off with compressor. Very low wattage fan, so it should be fine. I'm sure the capacitor can support as motor rolled the compressor right over even though oil was stiff. The one linked below is reversible. I have it blowing into the cooler.

Cost about $400. Haven't added it all up but I think that's pretty close.

Why? Water = death for plasma electrodes/tips. It can also cause torch mis-fires, meaning potential for scrap metal and frustration. I have had both problems since starting down the CNC rabbit hole. Very humid here in S Indiana.

Home Depot for copper and NPT fittings, gate valves, etc.

Cooler has 8AN compression ends

$95 Derale 15300 Tube and Fin Cooler Core,Black

Amazon.com: Derale 15300 Tube and Fin Cooler Core,Black : Automotive
W/Fan

$209 Fluid Cooler and Fan, 15-3/4 x 11-1/2 x 5 in, Tube Type, 6 AN Male Inlet/Outlet, Fittings, Aluminum/Copper, Black Powder Coat, Universal, Each

Amazon.com: Derale 13700 Electra-Cool Remote Cooler,Black : Automotive
Fan Separate

$27 12" inch Slim Fan Push Pull Electric Radiator Cooling Fans 12V Mount Kit Unversal Black

Amazon.com: 12" inch Slim Fan Push Pull Electric Radiator Cooling Fans 12V Mount Kit Unversal Black : Automotive
Power supply for 12V fan

$22 Suacopzar 12V 10A Car Power Adapter Female Auto Cigarette Lighter Plug, AC 100-240V to DC 12V 10A 120W Power Supply Adapter AC to DC Converter Transformer for Car Powered Device

Amazon.com: Suacopzar 12V 10A Car Power Adapter Female Auto Cigarette Lighter Plug 10ft, AC 100-240V to DC 12V 10A 120W Power Supply Adapter AC to DC Converter Transformer for Car Powered Device : Automotive
Key fittings for adapting 8AN compression to NPT pipe:
W/Swivel used at connection points to cooler (helps with assembly and isolate from vibration)

$12 EVIL ENERGY 8AN Female to 3/8 NPT Male Swivel Fitting Aluminum

Amazon.com: EVIL ENERGY 8AN Female to 3/8 NPT Male Swivel Adapter Fitting Aluminum : Automotive
W/O swivel feature used to convert flex hoses to NPT at the compressor and tank points. Could use swivels here as well.

$10 AC PERFORMANCE Male 1/2" NPT to -8 AN Flare Adapter Straight Aluminum Black

Amazon.com: AC PERFORMANCE Aluminum 8AN Male Flare to 1/2 NPT Male Fuel Hose Fitting Adapter Straight Black Anodized JIC 8 AN 3/4-16 to 1/2 NPT Thread Connector : Automotive
Amazon.com: AC PERFORMANCE Aluminum 8AN Male Flare to 1/2 NPT Male Fuel Hose Fitting Adapter Straight Black Anodized JIC 8 AN 3/4-16 to 1/2 NPT Thread Connector : Automotive

Flex lines came from JEGS:
JEGS Aftermarket Auto Parts & High Performance Racing & Replacement Accessories Online

 

i'm curious to hear about this..

i never thought that pex has thermal properties--plastic is generally a good insulator. i'd only consider aluminum or copper in a thermal situation like this. in this case, i'd only turn to copper, as the copper/nickel makeup of copper piping is going to hold shape and not fatigue like some aluminum parts.

 

Not my claim, but I've seen others post data.

It comes down to the difference between heat absorption vs heat transfer properties of the substances being compared. So, your statement could be correct if it absorbs the heat but doesn't release it as easily relative to the metals you mention. In this case, the potential to release the heat absorbed from the compressed air inside the pipe to the ambient air surrounding the exterior of the pipe. It would be considered a better insulator if that transfer happens at a rate less than the metals you mention. Some claim the heat transfer of PEX is adequate to meet the needs in the case of a simple air-drying system like mine, even if it is slightly less effective than copper.

 

Not sure if anyone has said it, looks like you need to slow down a touch. Looks like you’re getting some undercut on the vertical piece. Could also be alleviated by adding more filler. What size cup are you using?

 

I need to get me a drill press, and a vise…and a bench with a grinder…and a brake…I just need a shop. I’m tired of doing things the hard way lol

 

I've got PEX in my shop floor. It works fine if you have slow fluid velocities. It has time to give up it's heat.

I would think copper could give up it's heat much faster so it would work better with the high speeds of the air moving thru it.

Pex certainly would be much cheaper.

Maybe layout the PEX in coils to take up less space on your wall and you could have much longer lengths to equal what copper does.

Looking forward to updates on how well it works.

Thanks for the write up.

 

Whoever suggested I use my small scrap for gussets, good idea

 

Actually, I remember it being @GHOST SHIP

 

Having added a drill press saved me a ton of headache.

 

I have a drill press. I just haven't found a good place to put it.

 

My table top drill press sits on my small work table.

I've got a small garage so I have to be wise about real-estate and where things are placed.

 

My garage space is also pretty limited. I got some wall hooks for Christmas that should help organize things better, but I don't really have room for another bench. I could mount the drill press to the corner of my welding table, opposite to the vice. I'm not sure if it would be in the way too much.

 

I used to have one, and a compressor for my plasma cutter, but I sold them both so I didn’t have to move them when I moved and now I regret it

 

Extension cords, air hose, etc go on my hooks

 

Looks good, and well thought out. Once you move to a refrigerated air dryer, you will wonder how you survived without it, especially with CNC plasma. You should see a measurable increase in consumable life.

FWIW, most major compressed air manufacturers recommend refrigerated air dryers between the compressor and the receiver. Once the water is out, it cant get back in, so get it out of the system asap. Particularly sensitive equipment may benefit from additional point source filtration (plasma, pneumatic electronic cabinet coolers, etc).

 

Guy in the local yota group hit me for a project.

Wants to mount his tire to the bed rail, and he got himself a tire plate mount.

Mimicking the Wilco that's out there but for a shit ton less, I drew this up just a little bit ago.

No more than 5-10 minutes on Draftsight, then over to Fusion 360 for post process



End result

 

How much to be able to mount one to the head rail on a 3rd gen? You know the two holes that are threaded there lol

 

Yeah so this is for a 3rd Gen.

I need to verify this coming weekend if the slots I made are wide enough for his bolt/t-nut setup.

If you want one and can wait a week I'll get you the plate and a gusset for cost of material which ain't much.

You'd just have to provide your own square tube but I may be interested in cutting out a tire mount plate as well. Those holes will need to be much more precise however.

 

Oh, just send me the distance of those holes from center to center and the diameter (outside diameter).

I think his setup is different because he has a rail setup?