LCA

^Looks like you have leaking ball joint boots. Picture isn't clear on the condition of the bushings. If the bushings are serviceable, you can get away with replacing the ball joints in-situ. That'll let you avoid disturbing the cam bolts.

Either way, make sure you have a good puller tool to separate the ball joint stud from the steering stop bracket. I had a pitman arm puller that didn't fit. Got it done with a

$38 FIRSTINFO F3393 Patented Universal Windshield Wiper Arm Puller/Battery Terminal Removal Tool-Heavy Duty, Adjustable, Made in Taiwan

wiper arm puller that probably shortened the life of the tool.

 

Bushings look pretty f'd from the picture. The thing is I don't have much time to sit and do this at home. Really just wanted to get something and get it one quick you know.

 

If you jack up the front end do you have any play at all? Just cause the boot it torn doesn't necessarily mean the balljoint itself is bad. But also its pushing 20 years and (Im assuming) a lot of miles..

 

The question is. Do you need fancy aftermarket units or are you looking to replace an OE arm for OE arm for general standard use. If so ask yourself how many miles did the OEM ones last you. If over 100k miles, then the extra ~ 500 bucks for OEM arms ends up being 1/2 a cent a mile extra for something you know will last. Thats assuming the aftermarket OE replacement arms last the same length of use.

 

OEM arms and taco tabs! My factory set needed replacing after the factory cam hardware seized in the arms (common issue) and couldn't be aligned. Very happy with the end results and have held up well to all of the Utah playtime I can feed my truck on some rough tracks.

 

Left side/ driver side. This seems to be aftermarket hence the zerk fitting

 

Passenger side. They bushings look

 

Talked to the previous and he said he did and overhaul at 100k. My truck has 178k

 

Hey Folks, trying to decide which one to go for... Mevotech supreme: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7286712&cc=1447055&pt=10401&jsn=273 or MOOG CK series : https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12883173&cc=1447055&pt=10401&jsn=272. Opinions ???

 

I still havent bought mine

 

Heard the basic moogs have constant warranties. The only reason I know is because our mechanics use them and they come in for warranty alot. I heard mevotech was good.

 

Anyone tried these at $50 per side. Look better designed that the rock auto kits where the flat on the cam tab can round out. Look like a duplicate of OEM design. Cam tabs look like they are brazed to the bolts. Not a separate slip on part

$30 Front Camber Adjustment Bolts Toe Alignment Plates Fit for Toyota 4Runner 2003-2009 FJ Cruiser 2007-2010 Tacoma 2005-2016, Lower Control Arm Bolts Kit Replace 48409-60020 48190-60020

https://www.amazon.com/Adjustment-A...4fd-a315-59f49bf30e0f&pd_rd_i=B0CNZMN9W8&th=1

 

I have no experience with the above bolts, but I would stick with OEM and from what I hear 48409-60020 is the part that usually seizes in the bushing, where the rest of the parts can be re-used.

 

Dirty little secret. All you need to do to make it next to impossible for your alignment cam bolts to seize up (due to corrosion) is to coat the shanks with grease or Never Seize when you install them.

 

I should be so lucky if that was the only part I would need to replace.. With 10 years of canadian winters of salt and brine its probably all seized up and would have to be sawzall'd at the bushings. And the entire kit is leas than the cost of that one part.

Its just the closest I have seen in any aftermarket kit that mimics the OEM setup vs whats sold on rock auto. And when the time comes these parts would be liberally coated with anti-seize/grease. I was going to use some of the permatex extreme brake lube. Super tacky and wont wash off/out.

The aftermarket ones with the grease fitting are a joke. Looking at the design there is no way grease is coming out of that tiny hole and making its way the whole length of the bolt or thru the matching hole in the sleeve and its whole length either.

Now we have all mentioned using a lubricant in this situation. But the parts (bolts/sleeves/inner busing race) in question never move in relation to each other so more the prevention of water/salt ingress than lubrication (just being picky here)
Once its torqued down the inner sleeve is held firmly in place. So as long as whatever you use will stay there and not wash away it should do the trick if it.


I am sure there will be different opinions on this one but I would think a little of your choice of lube on the back of the adjustment cams wouldn't hurt and could prevent the need to have them chiseled off in the future. Its the outer knurled surface of the bushing that is being squeezed between the frame mounting ears that keeps it from rotating. The smooth inner surface of the cam against the smooth surface of the mounting ear wouldn't keep it from rotating IMHO.

 

This is a pic of the aftermarket (and there are many of similar design) versions of the LCA adjustment bolts. They are generally around the same price as the not well liked versions sold by Rock Auto. I would be willing to give them a chance since they are 1/4 the cost of Toyota parts. And they at least look the same as original vs rock auto versions.

 

I went all out. New OEM LCA, hardware, and changed bushings with whiteline to prevent possible seizing. Since I have a MIG welder, I made a few passes on the frame tabs.

 

I know the sleeve of the white line bushings rides on the poly portion but that wont prevent the adjustment cam sleeve from seizing inside of that. Did you give them a good dose of lube as well?

 

Yup! And added grease zirks to the bushings as one member did as well. Not sure if the lube gets everywhere in there but I figured, might as well give it a try!

 

Certain parts I typically like going oem on and bushings and balljoints for the LCA/UCA are one of them. I like aftermarket parts that utilize oem parts though.