Coolant Leak - 2017 TRD OR

I have a 17’ TRD Sport. Noticed that my coolant bypass was leaking early last year(don’t remember the exact mileage but under 70k at this point). I have the “platinum warranty”. Took it into Toyota. Had to physically go out under my truck that was up on a lift and show the tech where it was leaking from. They quoted me right under $2k to replace it. Service manager told me to open up a case with Toyota. A couple days later and a few phone calls with Toyota corporate, they told me they will cover $1300 and I’ll have to eat the rest. The “platinum warranty” has specific verbiage that states it does not cover “coolant hoses”. Was what it was. Had my truck back a few days later.

 

Was that problem remedied in later models? Does anyone know if they changed something to prevent this? Someone posted it hasn't been happening in later model years but maybe just not yet.

 

So, you paid about $700 after it was all done?

 

Yep. Right around there with tax.

 

Cheers!

Thanks for the info.

 

Yeah.. you guys all hit that on the head. Looks like that's exactly what it is. Coolant bottle is indeed low. Picking some up coolant tomorrow to feed the leak until I get some time to fix it. Not seeing any write ups on a DIY yet? But if it's just taking off the intake plenum and exercising some patience, I'm in.

And thank you all for the knowledge!

 

You're welcome!


There were various paths noted to tackle this. For example, some dealers pull the engine mounts and tip the engine down. It can also be accessed with the transmission removed. I'll take a peak to see what the SM says.

But, pulling the intake sounds like the easiest route. You can find that info in the SM for the spark plug replacement. But interestingly, the plugs can be changed without touching the plenum. Haha!


Edit: There's nothing that I could find in the SM for this replacement. The SM that we have is not complete, so it could just be a missing part?

 

Removal and installation is in the engine mechanical section, engine unit disassembly/reassembly. BUT it assumes the engine is out of the truck.

If you look in the engine control section, to remove the coolant temp. sensor which is in that stupid by-pass pipe, step 1 is to remove the intake manifold. So yanking the surge air tank and intake manifold seems to be a possible way to get to it.

 

The part was updated for the 2020 model year last I checked. Nobody really knows what changed but the part was definitely updated and superseded. I would assume it was to help protect against the issue. I’ll try to find the part numbers again.

Original: 16356-31050
Supersession: 16356-31051

happened somewhere between 2018 and 2020. I can’t find it but I know I found it before. I have not seen anyone with about a 19 or later have any issues so I would assume whatever they did fixed the problem.

edit: I see further along in my reading you are already aware of the part number change.

 

All good!

Hopefully that is the solution.

 

The warranty states this does not cover 'hoses".
But this is not a hose, it is a pipe, so I wonder why it is not covered ???

 

cause dealers are cheap weasels

 

This is a failure of the plastic and seal in the cross pipe not a hose. Many other manufacturers have this issue as well. Plastics are tough but not designed to go through heat cycles as well as metal.

 

Especially when bridged as it is. This is one plastic piece that is rigidly attached on both ends subject to stress movements from heat cycles and vibration. If it were not rigidly attached on both ends it probably would not be an issue.
Definitely a grade school design. Toyota quality definitely lacking there.

It is a pipe, not a hose, and legally per the contract they should repair it, period.

 

Just dropped mine off this evening.
Quotes $1,249 parts/labor.

 

Is that your copay or full price?
Because if not, it sounds like it will be done with the engine in the truck chassis. If the engine is to be pulled, I would think it would be a lot more

 

Actually a metal crossover pipe might be subject to rust thru penetration and thus leak heavily, especially in the rust belt.

A good quality plastic would last, but it is evident that the quality is not uniform for TOYOTA on this component.

I would prefer a cast iron if it’s attached to the engine block like the thermostat housings used to be made, for the life of the vehicle.
But those days of cast iron are gone in the name of weight reduction for better mpg.

 

Full price, out of warranty.
Should be started on it today as I was told they’d keep the vehicle until tomorrow.

 

Most European manufacturers use aluminum for a cross over pipe on V6 or V8 engines. Usually only the seals go bad however in rare instances corrosion will eat away at the aluminum but only if you put a volatile combination of coolants in the system. Same corrosion happens with plastic but only if the coolant becomes acidic (re: mixing certain coolant causes this reaction). I once replaced all the plastic including a heater core when a new beetle owner dumped a bunch of green coolant into their cooling system requiring G12 pink coolant. Very pricey repair.

 

Well, that's good news! it means some of us can do this at home by just pulling the intake and just paying for the parts.
I'm still not looking forward to doing any such thing though, but no stealership for me lol!