wi_taco 2015 TRD OffRoad build "The Gray Ghost"

I always use a water bottle or pop bottle, it just kinda sticks there with no help

 

I've tried that before, just didn't feel confident it wouldn't spill. Maybe I didn't choose the right flavor soda in the past? LOL. Miller Lite is basically water in a can so potato, potatoe?

 

I have a similar problem in my garage. I have a kerosene torpedo heater, but rarely use it. While it does take the edge off the cold, the cold concrete I invariably end up rolling around on the always wins.
If you do build a new garage consider having a heated floor. Downside is you have to factor in the costs of always keeping it heated. But depending on size may not be too horrible.

 

Yeah I sold my torpedo like 5 years ago for the same reasons. Cold concrete and about 2 minutes of touching cold metal parts on the truck will do you in faster than ambient air temps ever will. It's a losing battle in my current garage, I'm over it.

Definitely would consider the heated floor if I ever build a new one. I'm still up in the air whether to build or move, market is too uncertain right now. My current lot is almost too small to build and make it worth it. It's likely I will suffer (and to be clear, I'm not suffering these are truly 1st world problems) with what I have for now and keep looking at MLS listings.

 

Funny you mention the gear oils. Ive done them all in my truck twice now. T-case always looks perfect. Like brand new. Rear diff always has some sludge on it. Last time (90k miles) I sent some into Blackstone. The report came back with the iron count being pretty high but otherwise looked fine.

 

Yep that's pretty much my experience so far as well. I ran samples at 80k which I assume are the first time they were ever done (I bought the truck used at 78k) and test results were the same as yours. I'm interested to see what Blackstone says this time around - rear diff plug had some brass colored sparkles on the plug schmutz but I didn't see much suspended in the oil itself. Should be fine but better to verify. Mailed those out yesterday and will post back when results arrive in a few weeks.

 

Picked up a new Harbor Freight Badland 3-ton offroad jack. So far so good. It is HEAVY and large. Planning to use this primarily as my home garage jack because my other ones are long in the tooth, and as you can see my garage floor (and driveway) are some really bad concrete that causes me headaches. I don't plan on taking this on the trail with exception of maybe longer expeditions but time will tell. Only thing I don't like (or will take getting used to) is the lack of swivel casters - makes moving it a little akward sometimes. See more info in this other thread I created in the Recovery sub-forum.

 

Continuing to build up the toolkit, added an ARB Speedy Seal Puncture Repair Kit Series 2. Lots of different kits on the market, seems like this one is generally regarded as best quality overall. Figure it's a good starting point.



Look inside the kit. Most kits have nearly the same stuff, but I liked how the reamer and plug tools are metal and well-built, and I like the small plastic case for valve cores (some competitors just have these loose, seems like a bad idea on the trail). By no means is this perfect but again I think it's a good starting point.

 

Since our trip to Tigerton OHV park in Sept. '22 I've been thinking about fire extinguishers more. Previous solution was to throw a cheapo 3 lb extinguisher in the backseat and pray I don't need it. Tested out an Adventure Trail Gear headrest mount (see post #157) but didn't really like the execution. I'm done playing games, time to do it right and be done with it. Desert Does It Front Multi Mount Panel + H3R Performance MaxOut

$144 MX250R MaxOut ABC Fire Extinguisher for Vehicle, Marine & Home Safety | Car, Truck, Off-Road, UTV, RV, Boat | Refillable Dry Chemical | Mounting Bracket | UL Listed, USCG Approved | 2.5 lbs Red

MX250R 2.5lb extinguisher. Shoutout to @EasyDoesIt for the quality mount, this thing is way too gorgeous to just sit behind my feet and never get seen.



Here's another view of the final mounting. I used the bracket included with the extinguisher because it keeps things as flush to the bracket as possible. Had to pick up (2) M6-1.0x16mm button hex head bolts and (2) M6-1.0 flange nuts from the local hardware store (and since my local store doesn't have much metric these are grade 10.9 hardware which is mega overkill). Blue thread locker on all the hardware.



I had some problems because I ordered the extinguisher from 4 Wheel Parts, and unbeknownst to me 4WP has been bought out again by some other mega company, no longer Polaris. When it arrived the tamper seal was broken and one of the mount latch boots was missing. It doesn't seem to be used/abused, just the result of rough shipping and a missing bootie. 4WP customer service is f@#$% useless, however H3R customer service are rockstars and got me squared away. Shoutout to Melissa at H3R, next time I will buy directly from their website instead.

 

It's the middle of January, rainy, and 40 degrees today. About as warm as you can ever hope to see here in Wisconsin. Back in May '22 I ordered the Footwell LED Kit from HotShot Offroad / VLEDs, and for some stupid reason I only installed the PWM module and not the lights. What was I thinking?! Anyways, while I was messing with my footwell extinguisher mount I decided to finally connect the front driver LED and see how it looks. Trust me when I say this photo doesn't do it justice, looks much better in person. Also shown in this photo is the MESO dual color dome light that I did install several months ago and for some reason never took a photo of. Shoutout to @kmorgan3 , @memario1214 , and @MESO for some great products!



Another angle from the backseat / POV of the driver. Front passenger side is not installed so you can see the difference. I also have the @MESO dual color map lights - photos make those look more pink/magenta but in real life they match up very well. I am extremely happy with how these all work together. Steadily going towards all red LEDs to help preserve night vision for things like hunting, stargazing, or other night time activities where white lights are blinding. Next goal for 2023: start changing dash cluster and switches over. Stay tuned.

 

Received some extremely important parts today: the official TacomaWorld.com window decals. I am officially beyond recovery - financially, mentally, and otherwise. A joyous day. Thanks @tcBob and whomever on your fine staff distributes the quality merch.



Truth be told I'm usually not one for stickers but my collection is piling up. I'm thinking to decorate inside the camper shell come springtime - that way from the outside it's still pretty stealth. Like a mullet, business outside and party in back. Sick.

 

Blackstone results from the recent oil changes. Engine is surprisingly good given the extended mileage/age, TC usually looks like brand new oil when I drain it so not much surprise there. Would still like to see the rear diff metals go down. Not worried much, if it goes I guess I'll just have to re-gear and get bigger tires lol. I'm perfectly pleased.

 

Picked up a used battery tray from @NJOffRoad (thanks Anthony!). This is the v1 Redarc mount tray from Off-Grid Engineering and will help me build my v2 house battery system. I already have the matching battery tie down, this will pair nicely in my setup. More to come on that in a future post or write-up.

Honestly I am overjoyed to have found one of these used anyways because OGE hasn't responded to any of my contact attempts so I'm not real happy with their lack of customer service. OGE used to be on TacomaWorld but seems to have been booted too, hmm. On top of that, it seems OGE only offers the newer version that includes a side mount for an SBI which I don't need and would have hacked off so this particular design is better for my needs. This is why it's always a good idea to search the B/S/T forums, lots of hidden gems out there!

PS - photo credit goes to Anthony, hope you don't mind I'm too lazy to go take my own right now lol.

 

Hooke Road overhead molle rack installed today. Only took about 10 minutes, pretty easy just the 4 bolts through the grab handles. I researched these panels a lot, and I'm still not sure I like them but maybe in time it will grow on me. Why do this mod? Well, during my first attempt at a rear seat delete / fridge install it was quickly apparent how I would lose access to the under-seat compartments. Figure this gives back some storage for quick access when I am in that configuration. Main priority is mounting my FAK and maybe another small pouch for things like extra headlamps, batteries, cables, etc. that don't really have another permanent home yet.

.

Packaging is mostly adequate, but definitely be aware you may have to bend the mounting brackets back into shape. Mine were slightly bent but didn't take much effort to bend by hand with no tools. They do include new longer hex machine bolts and washers - I dabbed a little blue threadlocker but probably not necessary, just lets me sleep at night.



Small explanation why I chose this one:

• I found this one from Desmo Overland on TW but it's vaporware now. I liked this design at first glance except for not keeping OEM handles.
• MESO overhead rack is always most popular but never in stock; go figure the day after I ordered the Hooke it would become available, oh well. Double the price of the Hooke.
• OG Fabrication panel looks nice but costs an extra $60 for nearly the same design (granted made in USA) and does not retain OEM handles.
• Honestly I don't really think any of the existing options on the market are perfect. I'm 100% positive all of them are good enough.
• Figured I'd try this first and see how it works and go from there. If I don't like it at least it doesn't cost much and would be easy to unload.

 

01/25/23: Ordered a fuel tank skid from RCI to match my other skids. Believe I purchased back during the Black Friday sale and I've been debating whether or not to install for winter. That decision was made for me by the Wisconsin crew who might be heading out for some play in the snow come February so figured I'd pop this bad boy on. Went with the 5052 aluminum and powdercoated black because I'm not a hardcore wheeler and this should give me the best protection + less corrosion from road salt + less weight penalty.



Here's the factory TRD plastic skid. It's way flimslier than I expected, happy I'm upgrading now. It's extremely lightweight. Surprised that it wasn't full of more dirt and mud really. Tossing it up into the garage rafters with all my other take-off parts in case I ever go back to stock (but let's be real I think I'm past the point of return nowadays).



Here's the new RCI skid installed. I had to re-use the OEM flange nuts because the included hardware was too small for the studs on my factory fuel tank straps. Seems odd and I might swap these back out later but haven't decided yet. I had a full tank of gas which wasn't ideal but I just put the jack under the skid with a small bit of tension to hold in place and it didn't fight back. A little dab of blue threadlock on the studs and she ain't going nowhere.



You can also see my extremely lazy last-minute application of Woolwax here. It looks like garbage but most locations already have 2 coats from past years. Big part that I needed to protect was the newer leaf springs that were already getting a touch of rust. KBS paint on the sliders is holding up quite well.

 

01/26/23: A while back after installing my RCI engine skid, I noticed that jacking up the front end would become a slightly more difficult task. Before I could just lift from the center jack point but now there was a gap that seemed certain to dent/bend my skid. I don't recall how I stumbled upon it but this thread by @NukedTaco and this other post by @ardrummer292 had the brilliant idea to use 3/8" thick UHMW plastic as a spacer pad (thank you both for the blueprint to this mod!). A little bit of online shopping later and I had myself this ugly ass 9"x13" piece of green plastic sold as remnants by a machine shop on eBay for like $20 to my door.



After cutting a cardboard test piece and fitting in place, I settled on making the final product a 4.5" square which would essentially let me make 6 of these pads from my full sheet. The front jack point contact patch is about 2.5" square so there is lots of extra overhang which is just fine by me. Cut it using my table saw and it works very well as long as you keep it moving.



I made some smaller cardboard pieces that matched the 2.5" jack point and sandwiched them in place with the skid. Then I took a silver Sharpie that is apparently dead and drew the exact spot where they touch the skid. Ignore that black goop - I was getting overzealous with the Woolwax on places I thought might be prone to rust later. Had to wipe a good bit away anyways for the next step.



I wanted to follow @ardrummer292 's method of bolting it in place, but it's late January in Wisconsin and we have snow and cold coming in quick. I had some Gorilla VHB-type adhesive laying around from other projects and figured this will do for now. That one bare spot is me being lazy, and also because who cares there is like 2" overhang anyways so it doesn't matter. Tape barely stuck to the UHMW, ambient temp in my non-heated garage were right around 32°F.



Anther glory shot of the ugly green plastic chunks to show the Gorilla tape only adds a tiny bit of thickness. Doesn't really matter, will probably be destroyed by spring and then I'll just bolt it back together like the original plan.



Plastic chunk stuck to the big metal plate. I centered it to my marks the best I could and just snugged it up close to where the bracket for that oil change door raise up. This is a game of hand grenades, not rocket surgery. Fun fact: that stupid little flashlight I found on the shoulder of some highway somewhere just by random chance. I think it's a Walmart house brand light that cost like $5 but surprisingly it works extremely well.



And here's how it looks fully installed. Couldn't be happier with how it worked out. For now it's a permanent installation until that VHB tape degrades then it gets some bolt action. I've jacked it up a few times and it's rock solid. Done, done, and I'm on to the next one.

 

Nice work, man!

 

Thanks and thanks for sharing your previous posts, they were very helpful!!

 

01/27/23: Back in June '22 when installing my lift, I noticed the power steering rack boots were starting to "sweat" a little bit. At first I wondered if it was overspray of Woolwax or other fluids from other jobs but nope, came back slowly after each car wash. I keep an eye on the reservoir level and it hadn't moved in two years but seems to have accelerated with the lift (or just mileage, I'm near 120k now so it's probably time).



Here's what the reservoir level looked like in November '22. Wow that level really dropped now, was never outside the normal range before and I've never added fluid. I was also thrown for a loop when I checked the fluid color and to my surprise it was a yellowish-clear. "Hmm that's weird, I know it's supposed to be Dex-II/III and not power steering fluid...what gives?!" After reading and searching TacomaWorld a bit more, it seems Toyota OEM fluid was not dyed red from the factory. Finally this explains to me why people put in PS fluid mistakenly rather than the spec'd Dex-II/III. It would also be a mistake to fill with Toyota WS fluid so be sure to read the manual (section 6-1, page 532).



Here's the level now in January '23. About the same as November but color is DARK. Steering performance has been fine the entire time but by the looks of this reservoir I was putting the PS pump in a dangerous situation. It is not happy and has been neglected, and I'm sad to say it was on my watch. Time for some TLC. I am not a religious person, but today I am praying this holds out until next year so I don't have to replace a rack in freezing balls cold weather.



I've read several threads here on TW (specifically this one, and also this other one) and have been planning this service for a while. One tool that makes life super nice is this 100mL syringe that I picked up at a local shop that sells "gardening" and beer brewing equipment for like $7. I had some surplus 1/4" ID vinyl tubing and cut a piece about 8" long to slip over the syringe tip as an extension.



First step is to remove all the old reservoir fluid and junk. Get as much out as you possibly can but don't lose your mind if a little remains. It's impossible to get everything out, just do the best you can. Notice the color? Yeesh.



I used an old Smart Water bottle I had laying around (I use these for hiking, this one has been re-used many times over since like 2016 so now it gets retired to the shop). Seems like a lot of dark cloudy brown fluid or sediment that separated from the more normal but still dark yellowish fluid.



At this point your reservoir should look like this. Before doing the flush & fill I cleaned the entire outside of the reservoir and cap to prevent any loose dirt from falling in & contaminating the new fluid. Raise the front end on jack stands until the wheels are off the ground and free to turn.



After using pliers to slip the hose clamp back and removing the return hose from the reservoir, I used a ~4" piece of 3/8" ID vinyl tube to slip over the barb and plugged it with a spent 9mm brass casing (credit to @TheDevilYouLove for the idea, cheers!). Since it's cold here I heated up that 3/8" vinyl with a lighter so it would soften and stretch - be careful not to force it too hard, don't want to break the reservoir nipple! Return hose was diverted into my water bottle which I hung from the radiator fill neck using some bailing wire just to make sure I don't accidentally drop it or knock it over.



Time to fill 'er up. Toyota owners manual calls for Dex-II/III and lots of other people are using Valvoline MaxLife ATF which meets that spec. I'm planning to also flush/fill my transmission with the same MaxLife come springtime so to me it makes sense to consolidate as many fluid types as I can (as long as they maintain the same or better levels of performance where it makes sense). My smallest funnel was too big for the reservoir fill hole but it was close enough to just hold in place. Word to the wise: pour SLOWLY, it fills quicker than you think!



Reinstalled the reservoir cap, unlocked the steering column (but DO NOT start the truck), and then turn slowly in one direction until you hit the steering stop. Check & refill the reservoir. Then go back all the way in the other direction. Each sweep from all the way left to all the way right will use about 1/2 the reservoir fluid so check this every time and don't let it go dry!



At the end I got lucky and finished exactly at the cold fill line, however I'm guessing this will be ever-so-slightly-low once I get the truck back off the jackstands and go for a test drive. Be sure to check the level after you drive around on the next trip and fill as needed. I cleaned everything up again using those "Tub O Towels" wipes that are pre-treated with an orange-scented cleaner which has gentle yet effective cleaning power and work great for tight spaces like this.



I keep a box of Ziploc quart size bags in my shop for all sorts of reasons. Today they came in handy to store my new power steering flush kit so I can quickly & easily do this in the future.



Gratuitous shot of the full reservoir, now in bright clean cherry red color. Kool-Aid man approves, OH YEAH!



Here is the flushed fluid in my water bottle. Well, most of it. I dumped the first small bit as it had lots of dirt in it from my syringe job. The second lock-to-lock was dumped from this bottle into a Blackstone oil testing bottle and will be shipped off for testing just for my own curiosity because why not? And this is the remaining flushed fluid including a tiny bit of new stuff on top. That old stuff is so bad and thick from contaminants it separates away from the new fluid - yuck! Proof in a photo why it's good to do this service. I should have definitely done this sooner, and going forward I will probably do it about every 30k as cheap insurance.



While you are in that neighborhood of the engine bay it's always a good time to top off your washer fluid. I'm still running the -20°F orange stuff and not the super-cold purple stuff yet since forecast here has been mild. Next week that might change but still should be fine, some other years though it's purple all the way. Dang now I want some orange Hi-C drink, mmm...

 

Dang thats a good idea on the UHMW puck. Need to measure my SOS skid and see if its the same gap. I bet it is.