Disaster trying to get drive shaft nut off

I would replace the nut.......with a new one....

I reused mine......because I had no choice.....
I was stupid.......

wont do that again.....I'll buy the carrier and a new nut next time........

 

That's ok, thanks anyway. I'm just going to let the shop do it on the lift next week, instead of me or anyone else crawling under there trying to do things right at awkward angles.

 

And whats super important is have the internal parts perfectly realigned....
not so much at each end......


And as far as trusting people......you've got to be freakin kidding......

Its like everybody under 40......their elevator doesnt go to the top floor.....
and haven't got a clue.....

 

I'm definitely going to give the shop the nut since I've already got it.

 

What happened when you reused your old nut?

 

If you leave the driveshaft bolted to the transmission with it in park(or left in gear for a manual) that will prevent it from turning while loosening the nut since you dont have an impact. From there the bearing should slide off the shaft and you can replace with a new one. Use a punch/chisel set to unstake the nut, not screwdriver as you found screwdrivers are only so durable. Need to use the right tool there for the job. Obviously remember to set the parking brake good and chock the wheels too so the truck cant roll when you unbolt the shaft. Good luck

 

Now that three of you in this thread have said to leave it in the transmission to hold it and do all the work there, I guess that means the imposed torque won't damage things, and I'm dismayed that this is the first time I've heard such a suggestion. The carrier bearing sticky thread - and the few youtube videos I watched - says to pound in a screwdriver instead of spending a few measly dollars for a punch to safely do it, and then use your $400 impact set, workbench and vise to remove the nut when most people at home won't have those things. The punch is a head-slapper now that you say it, since I have a few center punches and a few large chisels but not a small chisel punch. I know people mean well and took a lot of trouble to create guides the best they can. I guess it's frustrating to me that without having much experience I'm relying on guides that have bad advice mixed into the good.

I might give it another try in a few days after I scrub the grime out of a couple sets of clothes, if I'm feeling like it's worth a shot!

If I leave the carrier bearing bracket attached at first, is it going to be able to take the impact of pounding a punch into the stake? That's the only thing holding the shaft from slipping further into the spline, and I'm hesitant to let it bottom out into the spline and damage something. Obviously the goal is to replace the carrier bearing anyway, but I mean in the event I can't get it off.

 

It really shouldn't take much to get the staked nut unpunched, atleast mine didn't.

 

Sounds like you're gaining valuable experience in doing your own work even if it comes with some trial and error of learning to sift through what may be good advice, and what may not be good advice posted on the internet. In all of it, it's best to use your own good judgement- Trust your gut if you think something can be done better with a different method/means. Just because a screwdriver worked for one guy doesn't mean it wasnt destroyed in the process. Maybe he didn't have a punch to stake the nut and just grabbed what was available.

As for damaging the trans by torquing on the driveshaft with a breaker bar on the nut- consider how much torque the engine can place through the driveshaft, especially in low range offroad, or when shock loaded from going from lack of traction to grip from spinning on gravel to grabbing pavement for instance. Same for shock to the trans/t-case by tapping the driveshaft with a punch to stake/unstake the nut. I've never noticed an issue on my personal vehicles from doing it this way, I've done several carrier bearings. Maybe it's not 'right' to stake it while installed but I haven't damaged anything in the process and I believe the components should be more than capable of withstanding those loads/shock. Also, the rear section of the shaft is the section(at least on all my 4x4's) with the slip joint so tapping the nut while in the truck and supported by the carrier bearing wont cause slip there and the splines of the flange arent going to slip because the nut is effectively attached to the splines/thread on the end of the forward section of the 2-piece driveshaft. One more thing to consider is the flange may be somewhat stuck on the shaft splines and require a 2-3 jaw puller to free it so you may want one on hand if/when you tackle this again to prevent more frustration and wasted time.

 

And yeah there is no shame on backing off......regrouping and coming back a better day.......
........done it a few times.........and I always came back for a win......


Gives you the incentive to get/use as much oem as possible, so you dont have to go back yet again.....

 

I totally get what you're saying about not everyone having these things at home, but they are absolutely good investments especially if you plan on doing any more work to your truck at home. Check out your local pawn shop or facebook marketplace, should be able to get an impact wrench for a decent price.

 

Yeah this site can be dangerous..... you might end up wanting to buy all kinds of awesome tools.......

In the end its who you trust.........
.......my brother would do more damage than good if he tried to work on his own......zero mechanicalbility.......

To keep a 25yr truck on the road.....youre gonna have to think like Tom Brady.....you gonna need to have a plan......so she dont leave you......

.....and maybe even have a backup vehicle.......

 

With the socket in the right position, use a floor jack under the handle of the breaker bar. This should use the weight of the vehicle to break the nut loose. That will make a lot more pressure than you can apply by hand.

If the vehicle starts to actually lift of course stop to be safe. But I'd be shocked if it did.

 

It turns out the reason for the screwdriver must be that finding a chisel or chisel shaped punch in smaller than 1/4" wide is hard to find except online.

 

Thats were you have to make your own tool.....
take something bigger.....and file that bitch down......
...to right tip or contour....

'never say die'........

 

Put it back in transmission. Put the truck in 4wd with the bearing bolted in its place. Lay under with breaker bar. Don't punch self in face....or don't do that the truck may just run your ass over. I'm sorry that sucks. I had to do mine 2 times in one week in sub freezing Temps laying in gravel, with covid....but I had a decent impact so the bish just busted right free. To torque it tho I re installed and used 4wd to hold it still. Can't remember how well that worked bc I'm pretty sure the second time I just impacted it back on and staked it. It's a fun job

 

Tom woods one piece drivshsft lol

 

use a punch instead of a screwdriver. they are designed to be abused. and i would definitely borrow or buy an impact wrench before you round out the nut. you'll need a good air compressor too... PB blaster/other penetrating oil should help too. use a strap wrench to keep the shaft from slipping when you hit it with an impact.

or just take the driveshaft by a shop. they should be able to do it quickly with the proper tools.

 

i would mark it yourself with a sharpie too before you drop it off.

 

Or pick up a $6 paint pen from O'reilys........