Betterbuckleup's 2000 taco build & BS

What did you use for intake tubing? I think I should do something similar on my setup.

 

Thanks! Your build helped for some inspiration

Just 3in aluminum tubing off Amazon. These pieces specifically. The same stuff can be found on eBay too

$33 LTI Universal 3" Outside Diameter 45 Degree Elbow Aluminum Pipe Polished (3" 45 Degree)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0971Z3DNP?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

$29 AC PERFORMANCE 3" (76mm) OD 45 Degree Aluminum Elbow Intercooler Pipe Air Intake Tube, 1.3D Radius, Brushed Finish

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JM3XH5Y?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I needed a reducer coupler for the connection to the throttle body.

$28 Vibrant Performance Power 2773 Hose Coupler, Silicone, 4ply Aramid Reinforced, Straight, Reducer, Transition, 3.00 in. Inlet I.D, 2.75 in. Outlet I.D, 3.00 in. Overall Length, Black, each

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E3XKLO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

Thanks, I'll check these out.

 

Man, it's been a journey setting up high boost w/ the haltech.

Friday afternoon I did some prep work for my tuning session at noon. Installed a new carrier bearing, installed the intake I built, swapped to the 58mm pulley, and installed the 750cc injectors.

The carrier bearing wasn't as bad as I thought when I took it out, but I didn't want it flopping around when I was trying to put down some power.


Everything went smoothly other than the injectors being slightly taller than the OEM ones. I had to use a washer to space the rail up a bit so that I could tighten it down. According to Gabe, this is something they've run into on some 3rz motors. With no explanation as to why it's like this on some trucks and not others.

The injectors are on the noisier side and noticeable at idle.






Swapped to the high boost pulley

 

Sic man!

 

First day of tuning went fine. Ran into a signal problem with the crank position sensor triggering. Took it down to 0.3V on the signal output and it was still dropping out and missing teeth. So I called around and found a Denso replacement crank position sensor locally to swap in. When I pulled the old one out, I found out why we were having signal problems.

Being it's a magnetic sensor, some ferrous debris had landed on the sensor which was no doubt muffling the signal. The old one is likely still good so i'll keep it as a spare, but I put in the new one since I was already in there. Have to swing the alt out of the way and remove the mounting bracket to get to it.




After that we were able to make some more progress today and get the drivability better. It took all day, but finally got it to a good point other than a few things.

Due to how heavy my truck is, I have some pinging in lower RPMs around 1.5-2.5k when mashing the pedal trying to accelerate from a slower speed. Just a lot of rotational weight and mass to get up to speed and I'm still limited by the 4cyl. It's only really prevalent when matting the pedal to the floor in those conditions, so not all the time if I'm driving it normally.

To help with this, I think I will down the line pickup an LCE header and then do the rest of the exhaust in 2.5in pipe. There's likely too much exhaust back pressure so freeing that up should help with that.

I also need to replace the cam position sensor because it was having signal issues at 6k rpm. For now we set the limiter to 5500 until I get the new sensor in.

Past that point though, it runs like a raped ape. The blower sounds awesome and it pulls real hard. Excited to get it out in the desert and see what it'll do.

As for the water meth, we got that working and at a good point. Although ran into a weird issue where when turning the truck off, the Haltech output for the pump relay trigger wire turns on and pumps meth into the intake. All of the wiring is right, so it's likely a software issue.
Until the software gets fixed, I'm going to wire in an additional relay between the ground wire on the pump relay. So that when when it loses key-on power, the relay will lose it's power supply and can't run. Not ideal, but at least it'll be safe.



I need to find a way to mount the haltech back there. it's tight as shit with the ducting in there so I might have to cut up some of the top part of the glovebox. We'll see.

 

Videos to come soon!

 

That header actually makes a decent difference. Probably the best bolt on mod for a 2.7 besides the s/c

 

That's what I've heard. I'll loose a couple pounds of boost, but I'm fine making that trade for some more low end grunt.

Did you ever run that header?

 

Wired in an additional relay for the meth pump relay. The ground switching approach wasn't working so I just used it to switch the power supply for the circuit. Now works as it should and I can safely turn the truck off.




Tidied up the harness behind the glovebox. Was able to fit the computer back there in the original spot.


Also got some crossbars for the topper off Craigslist

 

Nice Craigslist come up

 

should be good for hauling paddle board and whatever else up there

 

Had a local exhaust shop route the tubing out the back around my spare and shock. Pretty happy with how it turned out. They did a great job in tucking it out of the way and dodging all the suspension and shit back there.

Truck sounds a lot better now. Has a distinct exhaust note to it now versus where I had it just dumped before the axle before. All the droning is gone.

The shop said that the muffler is almost done. Just going to keep running it until it blows a hole.
Took all the tubing to 2.5in to hopefully let the engine breathe a little better.

We'll see how long it lasts or if I can manage to crush it on some rocks. It's tucked pretty high up and out of the way though so I have hopes of trying to make it last




Installed a USB type b bulkhead extension below my switches and radio so that I can plug into the haltech without having to rip apart my glove box to get to it.


Here's a shot of where I placed the wide band module. Glove box just barely clears it opening and closing.

 

I gotta get up and running so we can wheel again! Hammer the fack down!

 

You got an ETA?

 

This

 

Yes, yes you do. Get grindin!

 

Ready by Rubithon or MCR?

 

Indefinitely?

 

More hammers prep

Installed the LCE performance EGR delete kit
Went smoothly for the most part, other than re-routing the coolant lines that go through the throttle body.





One thing that nobody talks about (may only be applicable to SC 4cyl), is that there's no good way to route the coolant hose to the throttle body to where it doesn't kink and block the flow.
I tried routing it directly, but the OEM hose to the EGR valve makes a hard 90 degree bend that you can't make with a piece of regular 5/16" coolant or fuel hose. So I either route the hose all the way around the backside of the SC, or use a 90 barb fitting.

I chose the latter.



@boostedka did you run into this?


Also welded up a section of my inner fender apron that has been torn and separated just floating for a number of years now



Also re-clamped the inner most clamp on my passenger RCV axle because it's been slinging grease all over. I hope this is the last shit I have to fix with these axles....



Other shit I did:
-Straightened out some crooked leaf springs in the rear
-check lower ball joints
-reinstall my 4-pin trailer harness
-top off front differential