Body Mount Bushing Install - now with pictures! And a video too!!!

Can confirm Indiana truck here I have to cut out the rear bolts. both are seized and I have been putting it off because of this. Even have the replacement hardware already just dont want to deal with getting a cutting wheel or sawzall blade up in that tight area.

 

Honestly. Out of the 3 days I spent working on the rear driver. Cutting out the little bolt was the fastest and most efficient thing I did. But seriously. SOAK those bolts in penetrant. 24-48 hours beforehand minimum. I’m trying the other side tomorrow.

To document the chaos. Here’s the old and new bushing and the mangled long bolt, cut little bolt and one surviving little bolt

 

out of curiosity do have the jbl system? that is my fear to get to that bolt.

thanks for the pictures

did you remove the grill and bumper cover for the front two or did you go through the inner fender?

 

I do, but the rear driver does have the sub. My sub is in the two seat spot which also has my amp screwed into… which makes the passenger side very disconcerting, but I’m this far, so it needs done! Lol I was able to remove the driver cover to get to the rear driver which helped… so I’m crossing all my digits that the penetrating oil has done all the hard work for me on the rear passenger… probably not… but!

For the radiator I removed nothing. Went from the bottom up and through the wheel wells and to lift up I used two pry bars and just wedged and lifted until one side opened enough to get em out. Worked one side at a time. That was honestly not too terrible. Bit of elbow grease. OP popped this video in, but where this guy pried is what I did without a jack or anything being removed. There’s another video I’m hunting for for ya that explains this better but I’m having a hard time tracking it down… I’ll post it if/when I find it.

https://youtu.be/ch8f-uEy2Ok

I did that a year ago because I had a nasty rattle after I did a suspension update and ECGS needle bearing swap.

 

I have watched about every video on it because i have the awesome squeak up front. my sub is behind the passenger and is all stock. Im just not looking forward to having to pull all that crap out.

Im am doing my front two for sure as soon as the parts come in. Then I will do the other 4 in a couple months.

Thanks for that video reminder.

 

That’s what I had! Hope that fixes it for ya.

I definitely have the same you have. The one behind the driver side comes out by itself, super easy. You should able to pull the big passenger one out decently easy without removing the seats.

I’m doing the passenger today myself, I’ll let ya know how it goes

 

wish i didnt work this weekend and I could have come down to help. My parts will be here in a few days and i want to get the front two done asap and then i will worry about the rest

 

Yeh….. I hoped for better. Especially 3 days of soaking. Nada. So, over night. Putting a breaker bar as far as it’ll hold the bolt against the frame and doin one last round. If nothin. I’m cutting it all out tomorrow.

 

Let us know how it goes. Take some pics of how much interior you pulled out if you could

 

Alright. After 7 days, almost a full BIG can of PB Blaster… all 4 body mounts are done…

I took some pictures and hopefully can provide some better tips for others too.

Buzzkill, for the back ones, I thoroughly recommend taking those back covers out. They block about 1/4 of the hole. I could only take the driver out, so had to deal with the big passenger one staying in. I did it, but it was a struggle not getting a lot of leverage on the bolt and also actually getting the bolt out once it was loose.

Here’s what the passenger side looked like.


Getting those out is not fun. Drenched in on blaster. You really gotta just work that bolt back and forth. The little 9mm hex on the bottom just twists and warps after a while.

Also, I hunted for pictures of lifting points and jack points and where wood would go. So I obliged.

This is the rear passenger, but you do this on each corner with the stand and floor jack as close to the bushing as possible on the strongest pinch weld.




And just shove the wood between the body and frame as you can. It’s just for safety.


Now for the fun of the day. So I get to the front passenger. Cruising along. Front big bolts are cake…. I take one 14mm just fine. Start on the second aaaaaand


Not fun. I have no welder… So. After trying to file it to get a crescent wrench or something on it and then trying to drill it out. I was stuck. So, the old man thought. Hey. Let’s just take the welded nut off. Stripped that super easy with the impact… So out came the Dremel. Cut the nut off as close to the frame as possible. Drilled it out a little more and twisted the rest out.



Had to go get another nut to fit but put a washer and locking washer on and but it’s good to go.

Last little thing, it’s been mentioned loosely. But for sure loosen the radiator bushings while doing the others, you’ll save yourself some space and of course, lessen your worry of “what the hell was that noise?”

As it’s been said multiple times. This project is a MAJOR PITA…. Enjoy! Haha!

 

thank for the pictures and for the time you spent posting.

As soon as my bushings come in Im gonna through truck on the lift and see what its gonna take to get that subwoofer out of the way for the passenger side. Your truck does not even look that corroded so hopefully I dont have the same issues with my trucks bolts.

 

Absolutely. So you shouldn’t need to take the whole woofer out, just the cover. Should look like this after your covers are out. You should also be able to leave the seats in as well, you do not have to remove those. I didn’t when I did my audio system.


And it luckily wasn’t, but very stuck. The more room you have for a BFH the better!

If ya need any other words of wisdom on it, don’t be afraid to reach out. Good luck!

 

thank you so much for that subwoofer picture. I have been trying to figure out how much to pull out. I will tackle it ASAP.

 

is the woofer cover heals in with screws or clips. I can’t find a video on YouTube to save my live

and I can’t get my truck on the lift because my Sierra took a poop on me

 

It’s a mixture of both. I do believe 5 screws? And the covers clip to the side body. Check this out, is a 3rd gen but all the same stuff still. They do remove the seats but like I said, you don’t have to. Also. That drivers one does come off independently. Watching this makes me regret not doing sound deadening before my amp went in…..

https://youtu.be/ipJaa5TkuvI

 

Thank you Again

I should sound deaden mine but don’t have the motivation much pass body mounts

 

I’ve had a really bad rattling sound/clunking behind the drivers side front seat of my 2012 access cab. I think I narrowed it down to my cab mount bushing (the sound was similar to my Dodge when it’s cab bushing failed) and sure enough, after removing the lower lock nut I saw that the bushing was pretty cracked and there wasn’t much rubber left. My dumb a** thought you accessed the bolt from the top. So here are some pictures in an access cab for those wondering. I can’t wait to take it apart again when my bushings show up in the mail.

(Sorry for no pics I’ll add them when I do it again in a week ), using a 12mm socket remove the 3 bolts securing each fold down seat.

Then with a 10mm remove the 4 bolts that secure the center plastic piece in front of the rear seatbelts.

Then remove the plastic rivets holding down the storage as well as your jack.
Once the bin/seats are removed you will have access to this piece of metal underneath the carpet. Two 10mm bolts hold it down.

Under it you will see a plastic plug, and below that is the winged body mount bolt.


Hope this helps for access cab owners!

 

got the front two radiator area bushings done. The drivers side kicked my ass. Something is definitely not lined up correctly. It took me forever to get the bolt back through because it didn’t line up and factory bushing shows that it has been that way for a while. The passenger side took me about 20 minutes to swap out. Need to take it for a drive to see if it fixed my squeak. Will get the other 4 done as soon as I can

 

Well crap. Got brave and went for the other 4. Disconnected abs and brake lines like the video. Put everything back together and now my trac off the light beside it and abs are all lit up now I see no broken wires. I have no idea what I did.

 

make sure to firmly plug in the abs plugs. assuming you didnt break it internally while pulling it out. which code are you getting from the scanner. it will tell you which wire is bad