Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Those don’t look fun to remove. I used bushings even a pain ?

 

Those were technically “new” bushings or reman I am assuming. They were very annoying to get out, older ones might be a little easier to get one, these ones had like 0 play so that definitely made it harder

 

Are the JD bushings designed to re-use the stock mounting bolts? Then if so, and unless you also have the slide rack, you might still have the rack shift on you like so many with poly bushings report. Stock rack mount bolts are thinner at the shank than the threads, so the bushing sleeves aren’t tight to the shaft which then only leaves bolt torque on the bushings hats to keep the rack from shifting on the frame bosses.

 

Straight from the website where you can order them
"The soft rubber factory bushings are hollow in spots and allow for a large amount of rack deflection. To eliminate the deflection we have machined custom nylon bushings with stainless steel sleeves and washers. We then include hardware with the correct shank in order to properly secure the rack to the chassis."

 

Thank you

 

Word on the street is any ifs Tacoma that makes it up back door at koh this year gets a free set of 934 axles from @81Trekker. Leaving in a few hours. See you fools on the lakebed

 

Nobody said a winch can't be used...

 

Nobody has said anything about this challenge for a few years

 

what if you already have 934’s? Lol can I get a new front diff instead since I’m sure ild shatter it just trying to get to back door…lmao

 

Exactly!

 

I hate to be “that guy” but what page or post gives more details on the 934 CV’s ?

really debating between these or RCV

 

From JDFab web site. Tacoma 05 + 934 CV Upgrade – JD Fabrication Or just call them.

 

I know that. Was more or less looking for what page the development on them started.

ETA - found it.

 

I imagine JD Fabs use of 934 CV's started long before this thread started. Using the 934 in this application would best be answered by Harry or Jesse. JD Fab works on creating and building parts long before they tell us about them. EX: the frame plates that were just released have been in development for well over a year. Maybe not in this exact form but a product to reinforce and stiffen the frame has been.

 

There is really no reason to debate between the RCV and the 934 setup. The 934 setup is superior in every imaginable scenario. The reported strength of the RCV means nothing when the 934 gives you strength and more articulation angle that is the true problem with the stock or RCV setup.

 

planning on sticking with mid travel but I’m 99.9% certain I’ll be going with the 934’s.

they should pair up nicely with the rest of my front end parts.

 

So this thread has what I would call all the steering rack experts in it. I have a question for you folks that have had racks in and out lots of times --- Can you clock the steering wheel wherever you want on the splines of the rack or the coupler in the column on the outside of the firewall? I changed the rack out a while back, put poly bushings in (which sucked and I had lots of movement of the rack on the frame), recently fixed it with Whiteline bushings and 1/2" bolts. I have just one last problem to fix. When the rack was changed "I" wasn't the one that connected it up to the steering shaft. And my tie rods are not anywhere near equal, one is a few threads showing, the other is many threads exposed, this is problematic to be able to install the tie rod sleeves that I wan to put on, and also the rack is not centered I think, wanting to have equal steering based on steering stops, not the rack bottoming out. Before I go and mess with it, I thought to consult someone with higher knowledge. Can you clock the steering shaft either at the rack or the coupler? Sometimes at these splines in other vehicles I've experienced, the bolt goes through a void or flat spot in the shaft, or there are a few splines left missing on purpose, or whatever that makes it so it can only be installed one way. So can I equalize my tie rod threads, then center the steering wheel? Thanks in advance.

 

yes the only place that is indexed is the top end of the rag joint in the steering shaft. You can connect it anywhere on the rack itself. Or just take your wheel off and reset the tie rods than put the wheel back in centered.

 

OK thanks for the quick response! Going to tackle it up by the rack since that is evidently where the problem was introduced.

 

easiest way might be to slide the boots off the rack and than you can measure each side to determine where center is than just set the wheel to that. the rack can be a huge pita to get to to pull the joint and everything on the steering shaft side can spin fully around continuously so theres really no need to adjust it low.