Long Travel BS Thread

I carry those in the truck just for cases like this.

 

I had plain 70's and they held no weight, I talked to Jeff at Deaver and with the weight of the truck and adding 700lbs of off-road weight that adding a spring to the 70HD's was the ticket. My off-road weight turned out to be much less and I was too sprung. Being to lightly sprung for so long it's nice to have some extra leaf's with spring in them for sag down the line.

 

no I never checked plunge on my 934’s with the way my lt is….huge mistake. Popped the drivers side axle out of the 934. Been in contact with Harry, gonna figure out how this even happened and what I gotta do to get it working again but just gonna make my truck 2wd for the time I’m here. And I ended up picking up a set of axles in yucca for like 67 a piece at oreillys so just gotta cut them up and throw them in today.

 

Will be half off the truck once you hit the trails.

 

Curious to know more as well as we have a similar setup.

 

oh yeah since you heim’d your uppers as well.

 

Yeah

 

I already have a couple of people interested but thought I'd share for folks in here as well. Once I get to Arizona in June my flatbed trailer will be for sale. Nice and wide for the LT boi's.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/az-6k-carry-on-flatbed-trailer.792427/

 

Finishing the front end of my truck up, decided after debating brands and wait times to go with locked off-road for some bypasses and bump stops.

2 questions for y’all:

Running a bypass, I could theoretically tune it with a bump zone, are hydros still recommended?
I don’t like the idea of the 2 shocks taking all the bottoming force, but also don’t like how early hydro bumps seem to come into action with our a-arms with most peoples set up.
Using the oem bump location with wheelers bumps like I’ve had up until now isn’t an option with 2nd shock hoop.

if hydros are the way, locked sells 3 different styles:
• pin
• pinch
• threaded adjustable style

there any reason others have found to go with +$20 threaded style vs the others?
Adjustability nice to have?

 

Good to hear!
I had some custom h70hd s that were meant for lots of added weight, couldnt get it valved at all. Deavers fixing them now as we speak, height wise was the same vs the non hd?

 

I used to want threaded bumps for a while. But then I realized bumps aren’t really something you need to adjust often unless you are drastically changing something. Usually you set your bump before things max out or hit hard parts. Things you can’t really change.

For me I had my bumps set at x for years. Until I cut my wheel wells off and had to redo them. Now I doubt I’ll ever move them again unless I do some major change where threaded bumps probably would have been maxed out by now.

 

Tuned right, idc what anybody says. You do not feel them. When I had my pressure set too high I could. But after substantial toying around they are to the point it’s a perfect transition into the bumps.

 

Recently did Solo Long Travel front.

Did a 5 day trip to King of the Hammers.

Took the truck on some pretty frosty test rips.


Wife said "Damn, what a difference the LT made, can't wait till the back matches"

Yes, fellas... I won the wife Lottery.

 

When measured at the trailer hitch my ride height with new 70's was 25", sagged to 23" after sag. With 70HD's+a leaf height was 29.5", removing a leaf dropped it to 28.5" which makes the truck level. It may have settled to 28", I haven't measured since the last trip.

 

Lucky bastard!!

 

Well shit I had a pair of outer stubs

 

anyone in socal want a full set of fiberglass? they are glassworks. for a long bed. fronts are really good and have the little lower pieces. the rears are i little ruffer but with a little work will be perfect. i live in echo park come get them. wife wants them gone. dm me

 

Posting this again since it got buried. Unless second gens don’t have this wiring harness someone has to have ran into this before? Unless no one noticed. Which I find hard to believe.

 

Which bracket are you talking about specifically?

 

Excuse this crude edit. Arrows are the movement. On my phone. This sits right above the diff. It’s the wheel speed sensors and the diff lock. I noticed after full compression I was checking the downtravel and they were banjo tight. What happens is uptravel my diff hits the circle piece and pushes it up then during droop it pulls it down. Right now I just have it semi loose so it can pivot. But that can’t be the best solution.

Only other option is maybe ditch the entire bracket and cut/lengthen the whole thing.