Manual transmission Fan Club and BS thread (All Generations Welcome)

Yes, 2WD low mod is much cheaper then a regear.

I was very happy with 4.30 on 31” tires. Now on 33s, I think 4.88 would be absolutely perfect. The only time I notice lack of power, is when at max payload, aired down in 2WD or 4WD off-road. There is no way I will be doing regearing, but if someone pays for it I’m down.

Otherwise city and highway driving is fantastic, zero complaints. I actually like how 33s brought the RPMs down on the highway.

 

I’ve used 2lo to get out of my driveway a bunch of times. It’s more trouble than I care for in a driveway situation. A lot of that is the control part. A single knob would be ideal, button plus knob is annoying.

It would be great for towing though.

But it requires a TC which means a non option for my ‘05. And it doesn’t add balls.

 

I only put on 15k. The rest was from previous owner! It has 140k now

 

Seems a little early. Never know how it was driven before. Hopefully you get good mileage out of the new one!

 

That is true, but operating 2LO all the time gets annoying with the shift process. I can get into it very fast but it’s still annoying. Also, with a regear, 2LO is even better

Stock gearing isn’t bad but it’s easy to make assumptions about deeper gearing without having actually driven other setups. Folks look at the future rpm numbers and assume it’s out of the comfort zone and that X ratio would be terrible to drive. Real world experience pretty much nullifies that. I’d bet my paycheck that if you had a broken tachometer and drove 4.88/5.29 back to back on your truck without knowing which was which, you’d opt for the 5.29.

Is there a reason why you want lower rpm? I have found no benefits to that, and plenty of downsides. It’s a V6 that is practically begging to rev. I can just think of no actual reason to want a lower rpm other than it may be outside the comfort zone of some people based off of all their other vehicles ever running lower rpm. Just curious.

 

I mean, 2 Lo isn't meant for towing or street driving. Backing up hills, moving a trailer around property, that sort of thing are fine.

The 2GR definitely makes more power higher in the rev band.

 

It's my dream to slap a decently powerful electric motor onto the engine in a belt drive setup like Dodge did with their hybrid truck, small battery behind the seat.

Should be able to add a short term 40hp, it's not like you need it for long.

 

I always thought the e-torque system sounded like a good idea.

 

This question might be best in this thread.
For my '05 Tacoma, I swapped OEM all weather mats for weathertech b/c they have much better coverage to contain water (and in the PNW it rains a lot). The clutch already required strong force to start the truck but now it requires a fairly significant effort to push the pedal and smash the floor mat to get it to start. I'm guessing there is an adjustment to the point of engagement of the switch controlling the engine cutoff? I installed cruise control after buying it so I know that switch isn't involved in the starter cutoff, it would be a different one somewhere else. Anyone happen to know anything relevant on this one? I am guessing an '05 2nd gen might be different from 3rd gen setups, my 3rd gen of course has clutch start cancel so I can start it while standing outside (keeps the wet shoes from messing up the floor mats when starting on a cold morning). And, yeah, remote start is another option but I don't feel comfortable with that right now given my kids age and our steep driveway.

 

Usually clutch start and cruise control equipped trucks have two switches: one at the top of the pedal when you press the pedal at all, it immediately cancels cruise. The other is at the bottom of the travel and gets pushed when you’re all the way to the floor. Both are usually threaded and locked in place with a jam nut for adjustment. You could likely thread the one at the bottom out towards the pedal a few threads to make the pedal engage it easier. Basically unplug, loosen jam nut, spin a few times, lock the jam nut, plug back in.

obviously make sure you don’t thread it so far that the pedal goes crashing into the sensor when you push the pedal down.

 

Ok I’ll try to answer best I can.

• I only use 2WD low mod when backing up a steep driveway or maneuvering a trailer at low speed. I can see it working in super slow traffic as well, haven’t had a chance to use it there. 2WD low mod worked fantastic when I was parking a 4500k trailer. I only used the clutch to go forward and backwards, not sure how a lower gearing will benefit that.

• On the test drive (after I put the deposit down), I noticed right away how low the gearing was, especially first. I even thought the truck was overgeared a bit with stock tires and 4.30 rear end. I never had any “lack of power” complaints, ever. Even on stock tune. With normal driving, my rpms don’t go over 2500 or so. Plenty of power there. For the life of me I cannot understand why would someone want higher rpms? For what? Truck drives just fine below 3k RPMs, I really don’t get it.

• I like lower RPMS on highway because my truck has plenty of power in 6th, even goes up slight hills, no issues whatsoever. I’m 650 pounds overweight, 2” lift, RTT sticking out and 33” E load tires. If I need to pass someone, I double clutch 6-4 or 6-3 and she flies, takes me about a second. If one wants instant power without downshifting, I guess that’s fine. But my dumb little brain can’t understand why would someone want that when daily driving their Tacoma.

Turning higher RPMs on highway just wastes more gas, causes more engine wear and it is louder. I really don’t get it. My truck has so much power at 3k+, I see absolutely no reason to drive around at these RPMs.


I really, really think that 4.88s would be absolutely perfect for my truck running 33s. I liked how I lost some gearing on highway but loaded and aired down off road, first and reverse could be lower.

 

I think you would be looking to adjust the Clutch Start Switch. The other switch at the top of the travel is grayed out.

 

Cool, yeah, makes sense, I'll hunt for that sucker. So it's not terrible to adjust it a bit, as long as I don't incur damage to the sensor itself? It's up high perhaps? Whereas the cruise jam nut was at the top of the kick panel.

 

If the switch is not adjustable, you might be able to add some adhesive backed material to pad on the pedal?

 

I have no intention to regear but will say that mine is a dog, especially in passing. The only time it feels like it has power is on the top end of 2nd, sometimes. Mine is all stock and no extra weight.

For comparison we have a 3.5L Highlander, and although not fast it moves plenty enough, my truck is completely different.

 

I hate to sound like a broken record, but a tune would fix that. I've made 6th gear passes on two lane roads.

Absolutely stupid that Toyota has refuse to correct it.

 

Hm interesting. I guess different expectations are at play here, but I honestly never once thought I need more power to pass someone. It’s actually the opposite, I feel very confident on the highway.

I’ve had some imbeciles who would accelerate aggressively to not let me pass them and I just laugh. My overweight brick of a Tacoma just flies by them.

I’m running 94 E0, SFOB tune. My truck drives best it ever has.

 

I also use 6th in city driving going about 40. Did that on stock tune too. I guess always using 91 E0 on stock tune benefited me.

 

Yep. Stock it would putter along at 40 for me also. Just a lot more beef down low now.

 

Definitely, down low was the biggest improvement with the tune. Well and throttle response too, it sucked on stock calibration.