Disable Rear E-Locker?

I swapped axles to an auto LSD on my trd off road because thats all i could find at wrecker and I could care less about the locker, mine took forever to engage and disengage anyway. I cant find a Fuse for for the diff lock.
Aside from putting a paper clip in the connector at the diff (this works for a few days at a time but fails after a while resulting in the 4x4 light flashing while its in 2wd out of the blue), is there any other way to make the truck think the locker is there so i can use my 4x4 again or disable it?
Right now without the locker my ABS light is on 4X4 light and diff lock light are all flashing unless i put a clip in the connector.

Yes my 4x4 works if i put paper clip in connector but im looking for something more reliable

 

You're kind of in unknown territory. I'm not sure that there is an easy solution.

 

Amazing what a paperclip can do lol

 

I kind of figured, thanks anyway. It was worth a shot

 

Which connector are you inserting clippy?

 

If the paper clip works, just build a connector that does the same, so it’s not coming loose and gets element protection

 

The 4wd ECU expects the correct resistance.

Just need the correct resistor and correct wiring skills

(Think both may need some work here)

 

In another thread about a locker anytime harness the computer looks for a few things with actuating.

When turning on the computer applies power to the elocker. When the elocker engages a voltage spike is detected and this is how the computer knows the locker is done actuating. After this the current is reduced to the coul to limit heating.

The closest proxy you could put in to dummy the locker would be a big relay or a contractor as they are both coil based. The contractor is probably closer to the 2A or so the elocker takes. Hopefully not too quick (compared to locker) to be detected too.

Jumping to solutions, yes a resistor would work. Would strat with 10ohm and parallel another if that doesn't work. Check for heating but if not actuating it's probably low current through it.[/S]

 

I took the locker out of my 2015 2nd Gen and the truck wasn't any wiser. 4wd worked fine, no dash lights or errors. So this seems unique to updates in 3rd Gen ECU.

 

If you are never actuating the locker then this would be correct. Disregard my previous post needing another coil to dummy.

 

Can you cannibalize the old rear end with parts from the newish and create one proper unit? What the heck happened in the first place where you needed an entire new rear axle?

 

You're welcome.

Good luck!

 

Welcome to the 3rd Gen where angry pixie mods are rarely easy.

 

~3 ohms is what we wrote down in the anytime-lock-dev thread for approximate coil resistance.

Note, 4wd ecu is also checking for current leakage per my memory, you cant let your resistor have any ground faults, so good sealing will be important... (per my memory)

 

I would buy a spare connector that matches it and just jump the wire from one side to another or with the appropriate resistor.

 

3'ish ohm resistor should do it. Just know it's as much as 50W if you ever actuate the resistor as though it's the locker.

 

2nd gen (and earlier Toyotas) had a motor actuating the locker. 3rd gen uses a solenoid. It's intended to be a more robust design.

 

Wouldn't it be a good idea to also disconnect the locker switch at the roof console, in case it is inadvertently pushed "ON"?

 

Absolutely, and disconnecting the roof console switch will not throw any codes, etc...
Otherwise you will burn up the resistor... (and all the wiring, truck, gas tank, etc)