Manual transmission Fan Club and BS thread (All Generations Welcome)

Exactly. Such a shame.

 

Coming from cable throttle it was definitely a shock to my system haha.

 

I just came from a 3.5 Highlander, so I can speak to that as well. That 3.5 variant does have almost 20hp more and I believe weighs a few hundred lbs less depending on the trim. Add that with the 8 speed and I would agree that it feels peppier than the Tacoma. However, I used to own a Prius (dont hate I actually really enjoyed it for getting around ) when I was commuting more, so anything feels miles more capable after driving that .

 

I'm going to say pretty much all of this is a difference in expectations between us. I came from a truck that ran like a scalded dog compared to the Tacoma. I like the Tacoma but the stock gearing just did not do it for me. I also don't judge being overgeared by 1st gear though....I spend very little time there so how first is has little bearing on the choices I make. The gears in the middle are exactly that, they are in the middle so whether you have 3.07s or 5.29s, they can't really be overgeared because there is always a next gear to use. 6th I did not possibly think was overgeared, it was actually nice to drive in because it could maintain speed, although in my opinion it is a poor choice for passing no matter what.

Anyways, for 2LO, it still bogs down sometimes if you're just feathering the clutch in reverse up a hill. It doesn't die, but the regear makes it bog down even less. That is the improvement. Just a bit more control. That isn't a reason to regear, but I was just stating that it is in fact better now than before.

Definitely a difference in opinions on the second point. I don't think I have shifted below 3000 rpm even once on this truck and I'm usually more like 4000-4500 rpm when I shift because it just plain drives better that way. I have never felt this truck have a lot of power, unless I wind it out. I can't agree that it drives great below 3000 rpm, that's why I want higher rpm.

I can clutch my way to 3rd or 4th for passing as well but it's just nice to not have to as often. Higher rpm doesn't always equate more fuel usage and it definitely doesn't necessarily mean more wear, especially enough wear to matter anyways. The whole point of oil is to make it to where your engine practically doesn't wear at all with one revolution. That way, over millions and millions of revolutions, there is very little wear if any on the bearings and other rotational parts. The oil is supposed to provide a cushion (film) that keeps the metal parts from actually touching. As for noise, that depends on exhaust. If you have a drony exhaust, then sure. With stock exhaust or even the TRD, there is not much extra noise when turning more revs.....it's pretty much just a different pitch/tone.

Not trying to be argumentative, but I've been in your shoes where I had skepticism about how something would drive after I changed the gears. The real world was much better than the expected result. Especially once you get past the rpm level and enjoy the newfound power and driving experience.

 

Definitely, but I've messed around with carbs before to get them where I like them.

Cable throttle EFI was sort of a pinnacle for simplicity, power, and economy all together. We have a lot more power now, but also too much complexity.

 

EFI with a cable throttle absolutely was the pinnacle. My 94 Jeep 4.0 runs significantly better down low than anything I drive these days besides V8s. It doesn't have a lot of top end which is why low gears are nice for it, which means down low it is torquey as hell. Love it. Definitely do not prefer TBW at all, ever.

 

They have in slow increments. A 23 drives way different than a 20 which drives way different than a 16. It is sad that it is taking them this long to get it almost right, whereas the aftermarket tuners jumped in almost immediately and got working.

Lugging your 3.5 will hurt it far faster than higher rpms. Engine runs peak at 3500 ish, but we rarely need that much power full time

Your tractor engine 4.0 was designed to make peak torque down low.

 

Not in my experience. The 2021 through 2023 even share the same ECU ID. From what I have seen, the latest TSBs get all Tacos on the same calibration, except for the 2016 through 2018 ATs which are the stepchildren for the time being.

I've flashed up new 2022s and 2023s. The owners have the same complaint as any other 3rd Gen folks have who are on the latest update.

Toyota fell flat here. Just the way that it is.

 

A Toyota tune I could switch to that had some balls in the low RPM’s for my ‘16 would be so nice. I wish that were an option.

 

I'm on 33's right now and been considering going to 35's when they wear out. If so, I'll probably go up to 5.29 since I don't think 4.30 to 4.88 would make a drastic enough difference. I'm happy overall with the stock gearing, although I rarely use 6th gear so I expect I would use it a lot more on the highway if I went to 5.29.

I got 2Lo mainly to get my boat out of the water and park it at my house that is 100 yards away from the boat ramp. If I find I'm switching back and forth from 2Lo to 2Hi, when I'm in 2Lo I'll just put the selector in 4Hi (2Hi) without turning it to Off. Then you don't have to bother with turning the 2Lo switch on and off, you just leave it on and just have to rotate the switch from 4Lo to 4Hi to go from 2Lo to 2Hi. Hope that made sense, kinda hard to explain....

I have the KD Max tune and it made a huge difference for me, I'm happy with the acceleration but like I said above, would probably regear to 5.29 if I decide to go from 33s to 35s.

 

Yeah, I was 2Hi mode of 4Hi for a few weeks this winter. It’s definitely the easier way to pop in and pop out.

my kids are getting older and better at punking me. And if my wife ever had to deal with that, well, she would not be thrilled.

ultimately I found gunning it and feathering the clutch easier, though likely not as gentle to the clutch.

Mostly I need to get a flat parking situation figured out so I can let the clutch out before hitting the driveway rather than starting cold on a hill facing backwards.

 

@daveeasa .

It doesn't look like there is any adjustment for the start switch. Adding some material to the pad on the pedal seems to be the best route?

 

Felt furniture pad or something similar probably would do the trick.

might do it to mine because it’s annoyingly hard to press down with my husky weatherbeaters. I’m used to it but it would be nice to not have to be.

 

I’m guessing no way to add a clutch start cancel? Or maybe that’s possible if we put that switch in parallel?

S, I’ll give it a whirl.

 

+10 HP mod today.

 

Is it just me...or does it look odd on the passenger rear?


Prolly just me

 

Also me...

 

Couldn’t make up my mind. I figured since I’d be brrrrrapp brrrrrappp past others in the slow lane I wanted them to see how much cooler I was in a stick.

 

Surprised to see manual yota's without it. Every 84+ that I've seen here has had it (doesn't mean I've seen em all though lol)